THE 

PRACTICAL 

JO  OK  OF 

OUTDOOR 

ROSE 
GROWING 

GARDEN  EDITION 


GEORGE  C.THOMASjR. 


GAEDEN  EDITION 

THE  PRACTICAL  BOOK  OF 
OUTDOOR  ROSE  GROWING 

FOR  THE  HOME  GARDEN 

WITH  AN  ADDITIONAL  CHAPTER 


THE 

PRACTICAL  BOOKS 

OF  HOME  LIFE  ENRICHMENT 

EACH   PROFUSELY  ILLUS- 
TRATED, HANDSOMELY  BOUND 
Octavo.     Cloth.    In  a  slip  case. 

THE  PRACTICAL  BOOK  OF 
OUTDOOR  ROSE  GROWING 

BY  GEORGE  C.  THOMAS.  JR. 

ENLARGED  DE  LUXE  FIFTH  EDITION 
GARDEN  EDITION 

THE  PRACTICAL  BOOK 
OF  EARLY  AMERICAN 
ARTS  AND  CRAFTS 

BY  HABOLD  DONALDSON  EBEELEIN 
AND  ABBOT  McCLURE 

THE  PRACTICAL  BOOK 
OF  ARCHITECTURE 

BT  C.  MATLACK  PRICE 

THE  PRACTICAL  BOOK 
OF  ORIENTAL  RUGS 

BT  DB.  G.  GRIFFIN  LEWIS 

NEW  EDITION,  REVISED  AND  ENLARGED 

THE  PRACTICAL  BOOK  OF 
GARDEN  ARCHITECTURE 

BY   PHEBE    WESCOTT   HUMPHREYS 

THE  PRACTICAL  BOOK 
OF  PERIOD  FURNITURE 

BY  HAROLD  DONALDSON  EBERLEIN 
AND  ABBOT  McCLURE 

THE  PRACTICAL  BOOK  OF 
INTERIOR  DECORATION 

BY  EBERLEIN,  McCLURE  &  HOLLOW  AY 

J.  B.  LIPPINCOTT  COMPANY 
PUBLISHERS  PHILADELPHIA 


MME.  EDOUARD  HERRIOT  (THE  DAILY  MAIL  ROSE) 
(Description  page  66) 


THE  PRACf  iCAt  BOOR 

OF 

OUTDOOR  ROSE  GROWING 

FOR  THE  HOME  GARDEN 


BY 


GEORGE  C.  THOMAS,  JR. 


GARDEN  EDITION 

WITH  AN  ADDITIONAL  CHAPTER  ON  THE  LATEST 

DEVELOPMENTS 
17  PLATES  IN  COLOR,  CHARTS,  AND  HALF-TONES 


PHILADELPHIA  AND  LONDON 
J.  B.  IJPPINCOTT  COMPANY 

1980 


COPYRIGHT,  1914,  BY  J. 
COPYRIGHT,  1915,  BY  J. 
COPYRIGHT,  1916,  BY  J. 
COPYRIGHT,  1917,  BY  J. 
COPYRIGHT,  19)20,  BY  J. 


B.  LIPPINCOTT  COMPANY 
B.  LIPPINCOTT  COMPANY 
B.  LIPPINCOTT  COMPANY 
B.  LIPPINCOTT  COMPANY 
B.  LIPPINCOTT  COMPANY 


EFft. 


PRINTED  BY  J.  B.  LIPPINCOTT  COMPANY 

AT  THE  WASHINGTON  SQUARE  PRESS 

PHILADELPHIA.  U.  S.  A. 


THIS  BOOK  IS  AFFECTIONATELY 
DEDICATED  TO 

DR.  ROBERT  HUEY 

WHO  GAVE  ME   MY   FIRST   INSPIRATION  IN 
ROSE  GROWING 


+{  »;;  c 
a-  O  O 


FOREWORD 

THE  first  three  editions  of  this  book  have  proved 
the  original  contention  that  there  is  need  for  a  prac- 
tical book  on  roses  for  our  American  climate.  Since 
the  first  edition  of  December,  1914,  changes  were 
made  as  needed,  and  new  editions  embodying  them 
published  during  April,  1915,  and  January,  1916. 
The  tests  during  the  past  summer  have  necessitated 
a  complete  revisal  of  the  lists  of  best  varieties  both  in 
the  dwarf  and  climbing  sections,  in  addition  to  which, 
there  were  so  many  new  points  of  improvement  in 
cultivation  that  it  was  imperative  to  rewrite  almost 
the  entire  book. 

In  bringing  out  this  edition  thanks  should  be  ten- 
dered to  Messrs.  Williams,  Brown  and  Earle  and  to 
Hess  Ives  Corporation,  both  of  Philadelphia,  for  the 
color  work  and  half-tones,  and  also  to  A.  N.  Pierson, 
Incorporated,  of  Cromwell,  Connecticut,  for  the  use 
of  a  number  of  photographs.  Acknowledgment  is 
made  to  Henry  A.  Dreer,  Incorporated,  and  the 
Andorra  Nurseries,  of  Philadelphia,  for  their  aid  in 
securing  and  importing  new  varieties;  also  to  George 
H.  Peterson,  of  Fair  Lawn,  New  Jersey,  and  Bobbink 
&  Atkins,  of  Rutherford,  New  Jersey,  both  of  whom 
have  shown  the  greatest  interest,  and  who  have  done 


FOREWORD 

everything  possible  to  give  information  on  varieties 
tested  by  them. 

So  many  persons,  both  amateur  and  professional, 
have  rendered  great  help  by  their  courtesy  and  rec- 
ords that  it  would  take  too  much  space  to  mention 
all,  but  chief  among  these  was  Dr.  Robert  Huey, 
Philadelphia;  Jesse  A.  Currey,  Portland,  Oregon; 
Herbert  L.  Wettern,  England;  Admiral  Aaron  Ward, 
Roslyn,  Long  Island;  W.  C.  Egan,  Highland  Park, 
Illinois;  J.  Horace  McFarland,  Harrisburg;  and  J.  N. 
Richardson,  Baltimore. 

G.  C.  T.,  Jr. 
November,  1916. 


CONTENTS 


CHAPTER  PAGE 

I.  THE  PROPAGATION  OF  ROSES 15 

II.  THE  BEST  VARIETIES,  WITH  THEIR  CHARACTERISTICS  . .  32 

III.  NEW  INTRODUCTIONS  AND  SPECIAL  CLASSES 105 

IV.  CLUMBERS 118 

V.  LOCATION  AND  PREPARATION 133 

VI.  ORDERING 146 

VII.  PLANTING 152 

VIII.  PRUNING 161 

IX.  CULTIVATION 176 

X.  SOME  GENERAL  INFORMATION  AND  HINTS  ON  HYBRIDIZA- 
TION   190 

INDEX 205 


ILLUSTRATIONS 

COLOR  PLATES 

PAGE 

MADAME  EDOUABD  HERRIOT  (THE  DAILY  MAIL  ROSE) 

Frontispiece 
LYON  ROSE 37 

EIGHT  SPECIMENS  OF  BEST  FORTY-EIGHT  ROSES 

OPHELIA 43 

JACQUES  PORCHER 45 

MADAME  SEGOND  WEBER 50 

MRS.  GEORGE  SHAWYER 54 

COMTE  G.  DE  ROCHEMUR 57 

LAURENT  CARLE 59 

DUCHESS  OF  WELLINGTON 64 

ELLI  HARTMANN ,  68 

FRAU  KARL  DRUSCHKI 110 

CHRISTINE  WRIGHT 119 

AVIATEUR  BLERIOT  AND  GARDENIA 124 

HUGO  ROLLER 137 

JOSEPH  HILL 154 

FIRST  BLOOMS  ON  Two  HYBRID  TEA  SEEDLINGS 193 

HALF-TONE  PLATES 

ROSE  CUTTING  READY  FOR  PLANTING 18 

HYBRID  TEA  AND  BRIAR  FOLIAGE 20 

RADIANCE,  Multiflora  and  Own  Roots 22 

MADAME  SECOND  WEBER,  Grown  on  Multiflora 25 

LA  FRANCE,  Grown  on  Multiflora 25 

SEEDLINGS  SHOWING  VARIED  GROWTHS 27 

ELLI  HARTMANN 30 

JACQUES  PORCHER 30 

COMTE  G.  DE  ROCHEMUR 33 

ROBERT  HUEY 33 

JONKHEER  J.  L.  MOCK,  Grown  on  Multiflora 36 

CHATEAU  DE  CLOS  VOUGEOT,  Grown  on  Multiflora 36 

MADAME  JULES  BOUCHE..  40 


ILLUSTRATIONS 

OPHELIA 40 

MOONLIGHT 125 

TAUSENDSCHON 125 

FUKSTIN  VON  PLESS,  Regular  and  Special  Beds 127 

JOSEPH  HILL,  Regular  and  Special  Beds 138 

CLIMBING  HERMOSA,  Diversity  of  Plants  of  Same  Variety 148 

LABEL  USED  IN  TESTING  BEDS 155 

LABEL  USED  BY  J.  HORACE  MCFARLAND 155 

LABEL  DESIGNED  BY  F.  F.  CHRISTINE 155 

DAILY,  MAIL,  Pruned  High  and  Low 164 

HYBRID  TEA  ROSE,  NOT  PRUNED  BUT  ALLOWED  TO  DEVELOP  168 

SAME  ROSE  PROPERLY  PRUNED 168 

ROSE  NEEDING  NO  DISBUDDING 177 

ROSE  NEEDING  DISBUDDING;  ROSE  AFTER  BEING  PROPERLY 

DISBUDDED 177 

APHIS 178 

THRIP 178 

BORER 180 

ROSE  SLUG 180 

LEAF  EATERS 180 

BLACK  SPOT  EFFECT 182 

DESTRUCTION  CAUSED  BY  LEAF  EATERS 182 

ROSE  WITH  PETALS  REMOVED,  SHOWING  STAMENS  AND  ANTHERS  197 
SAME  ROSE  WITH  MOST  OF  STAMENS  AND  ANTHERS  REMOVED  197 
SEED  POD  ON  A  HYBRID  TEA  ROSE  WHICH  HAS  BEEN 

HYBRIDIZED  . .  .  199 


THE  PRACTICAL  BOOK  OF 
OUTDOOR  ROSE  GROWING 

I 
THE  PROPAGATION  OF  ROSES 

ESTABLISHED  VARIETIES 

IN  this  chapter  it  is  aimed  to  give  the  reader  such 
general  information  as  will  enable  him  to  compre- 
hend the  main  principles  of  the  propagation  of  the 
rose.  In  order  that  he  may  fairly  understand  the 
following  chapters,  and  the  general  scheme  of  the 
selection  of  varieties  and  the  ordering  of  the  same, 
this  chapter  should  be  read  carefully.  It  is  not  the 
intention  to  puzzle  the  home  rose  grower  with  all  the 
scientific  details  of  each  phase  of  rose  culture;  but  it 
is  believed  that  the  following  paragraphs  will  give  a 
good  working  idea  of  the  methods  employed.  For 
those  who  may  care  to  follow  out  such  matters  to 
their  utmost  conclusion,  the  names  of  exhaustive 
works  are  given. 

Established  roses  are  propagated  mainly  by  the 
following  methods:  Seeds,  layering  and  suckers;  cut- 
tings, budding  and  grafting,  the  last  three  being  the 
principal  methods. 

15 


OUTDOOR  ROSE  GROWING 

SEEDS 

In  order  to  secure  established  varieties,  seeds  are 
used  only  in  special  cases,  because  they  can  only  be 
relied  upon  to  reproduce  plants  of  their  own  kind 
when  they  are  taken  from  original  species.  Seeds  of 
hybrids  are  useless  for  this  end,  as  their  seedlings  do 
not  conform  to  the  parent  stock.  In  other  words, 
hybrids  do  not  come  true  from  seeds,  and  their  seeds 
are  only  useful  for  new  varieties.  ' '  Experiments  with 
Plants, "  by  Osterhout,  goes  into  the  scientific  treat- 
ment of  seeds. 

LAYERING 

Many  plants  and  some  roses  increase  by  layering, 
that  is,  throwing  out  a  branch  which  becomes  rooted 
and  in  turn  sends  out  its  branches  to  root  themselves 
and  carry  out  nature's  work  of  increase.  Layering 
is  not  practised  to  any  great  extent,  as  it  is  a  longer 
process  than  the  others  and  requires  not  only  more 
tune  to  accomplish  results,  but  also  more  space  either 
in  greenhouse  or  nursery. 

Layering  is  now  only  used  for  some  varieties  which 
do  not  root  well  from  cuttings.  Ellwanger  cites 
Persian  Yellow  as  one  of  these. 

It  is  a  simple  and  easy  operation,  and  is  accom- 
plished by  bending  down  a  rose  cane  of  a  growing 
plant,  scientifically  notching  it  with  a  knife  (tech- 
nically known  as  tongueing),  and  then  putting  the 

16 


THE  PROPAGATION  OF  ROSES 

tongued  portion  into  prepared  ground,  after  which 
it  is  held  in  place  by  various  methods.  Roots  are 
formed  at  the  break  and  eventually  the  part  so 
treated  may  be  detached  from  the  original  plant 
and  becomes  itself  a  complete  plant. 

Pemberton,  in  "  Roses — Their  History,  Develop- 
ment and  Cultivation, "  gives  very  clear  and  explicit 
instructions  on  layering. 
SUCKERS 

Pemberton's  description  of  suckers  we  quote  as 
follows : 

"Many  of  the  species,  such  as  RUGOSA,  ALPINA, 
SPINOSISSIMA  and  LUCIDA,  together  with  Provence- 
and  Damask  hybrids,  etc.,  increase  by  throwing  out 
suckers,  springing  up  at  some  distance  from  the 
parent  plant,  and  forming  roots  at  the  place  where 
they  bend  upwards.  These  rooted  suckers,  after 
being  separated  from  the  plant,  should  be  pruned 
back  to  a  foot  or  even  less,  and  then  treated  as 
ordinary  plants." 
CUTTINGS 

Cuttings  are  slips  taken  from  plants  which,  when 
placed  in  sand  and  soil,  grow  roots  of  their  own  and 
become  in  turn  rose  plants,  giving  the  same  bloom 
as  the  plants  from  which  they  were  cut.  Very  often 
they  are  given  greenhouse  care  and  while  this  is 
not  necessary,  it  obtains,  perhaps,  surer  and  better 

17 


OUTDOOR  ROSE  GROWING 

results.  In  experimental  work,  cuttings  have  been 
carried  so  far  that  they  have  been  made  successfully 
even  from  rose  leaves,  although  this  method  is  of 
no  practical  use.  No  doubt  many  persons  who  have 
followed  to  this  point  understand  cuttings  and  have 
employed  them  not  only  in  roses  but  in  other  plants, 
such  as  carnations  and  geraniums,  which  are  propa- 
gated almost  entirely  by  this  method. 

In  their  proper  place  cuttings  as  used  in  rose  cult- 
ure may  be  relied  upon,  but  beyond  this  sphere  their 
use  is  open  to  debate,  as,  in  the  opinion  of  nearly  all 
the  best  authorities,  they  are  not  as  satisfactory  as 
budding.  The  main  reason  for  their  failure  is  that 
many  of  the  new  varieties  are  weak  growers  and  can- 
not of  their  own  accord  win  the  fight  for  existence, 
even  under  favorable  conditions.  As  conditions  in 
our  climate  are  most  uncertain,  only  the  exception- 
ally hardy  plant  succeeds  on  its  own  roots. 

It  would  be  easy  for  any  one  to  make  cuttings  of 
his  own,  and  this  could  be  successfully  done  with  the 
hardier  roses,  thereby  saving  the  expense  of  purchas- 
ing. If  roses  are  purchased,  budded  plants  are 
strongly  recommended,  as  the  slight  extra  outlay 
would  be  fully  justified. 

While  there  are  many  good  articles  on  cuttings, 
Pemberton's  is  the  best,  as  it  treats  of  cuttings  under 

glass  and  also  cuttings  in  the  open. 

18 


FIG.  1 
ROSE  CUTTING  READY  FOR  PLANTING 


THE  PROPAGATION  OF  ROSES 

BUDDING 

In  budding  roses  a  strong  stock  is  secured  and  the 
variety  selected  is  budded  upon  this  stock,  eventually 
becoming  a  part  of  it.  The  actual  operation  of 
budding  is  merely  to  cut  off  the  dormant  bud  from 
the  variety  which  it  is  desired  to  perpetuate  and, 
cutting  a  slit  in  the  bark  of  the  stock,  to  introduce 
the  bud  into  the  same.  When  the  bud  so  trans- 
planted becomes  somewhat  established,  all  growth 
above  it  is  removed  and  the  whole  vitality  of  a  proved 
stock  is  thrown  into  the  bud,  giving  it  the  nourish- 
ment which  a  tried  constitution  insures. 

In  England  the  two  stocks  most  commonly  used 
are  MANETTI  and  BRIAR.  In  the  case  of  roses  with  a 
preponderance  of  Hybrid  Perpetual  blood  the  Man- 
etti  stock  is  generally  used;  for  those  containing 
much  Tea  blood  the  Briar  has  been  found  the  better 
stock. 

A  few  growers  in  this  country  are  trying  Japanese 
Multiflora,  and  with  some  varieties  secure  stronger 
and  better  plants  than  those  grown  on  the  ordinary 
stocks  as  generally  used.  Sometimes  Rugosa  stock 
is  used  for  budding  and  a  very  few  roses  do  quite 
well  on  it. 

Undoubtedly  the  ideal  stock  for  all  roses  has  not 
yet  been  discovered,  and  a  great  advance  should  be 
made  in  this  most  important  section  of  rose  culture. 

19 


OUTDOOR  ROSE  GROWING 

In  order  to  secure  a  perfect  rose  list,  budding  on 
different  stocks  should  be  tried.  If  cuttings  are 
employed,  very  many  roses  will  not  succeed  as  well 
for  outdoor  culture. 

There  are  two  objections  to  budded  roses.  First, 
they  occasionally  break  off  at  the  bud,  but  this  has 
so  seldom  occurred  in  actual  practice  that  it  is  not 
worth  consideration.  The  second  and  main  reason 
is  that  the  stocks  upon  which  the  roses  are  budded 
throw  up  shoots  of  their  own  below  the  bud,  usually 
called  suckers,  which,  if  left,  take  the  entire  nourish- 
ment of  the  roots  and  check  the  budded  growth. 

These  shoots  from  below  the  bud  may  be  very 
easily  detected  upon  their  appearance,  because  they 
come  up  from  the  ground  outside  the  plant  and  also 
because  of  their  different  habit  of  growth,  containing, 
as  they  do,  seven  and  sometimes  nine  leaves  on  each 
lateral,  instead  of  three  and  five  as  in  most  budded 
varieties.  (Note  illustration.)  The  foliage  is  of  a 
much  lighter  shade  of  green  than  the  shoots  from 
the  bud  itself  and  its  point  of  junction  with  the  plant 
is  below  the  bud.  It  is  very  easily  removed  by  care- 
fully digging  up  the  ground,  cutting  it  off  with  a 
knife  at  its  union  with  the  plant  below  the  bud,  and 
rubbing  some  earth  over  the  cut.  In  addition,  this 
main  reason  is  not  a  valid  objection,  because  it  only 

happens  with  about  one  per  cent,  of  the  budded 

20 


At  left,  ordinary  Hybrid  Tea  foliage  showing  five  lei 
showing  plainly  seven  leaves  on  the  lower  laterals 


FIG.  2 
HYBRID  TEA  AND  BRIAR  FOLIAGE 

eaves  on  each  lateral.    On  the  right,  a  sucker 
Note  also  the  greater  number  of  thorns 


THE  PROPAGATION  OF  ROSES 

plants,  and  can  even  then  be  easily  detected.  To 
keep  this  percentage  down,  roses  on  Briar  and  Man- 
etti  must  be  planted  with  the  bud  two  to  three  inches 
below  the  surface  of  the  soil,  as  hereafter  advocated. 
If  planted  less  deeply  they  will  grow  a  greater  number 
of  suckers. 

Fewer  suckers  develop  from  Multiflora  than  from 
Briar  or  Manetti,  and  on  this  account  George  H. 
Peterson  recommends  planting  the  bud  from  one  to 
one  and  a  half  inches  below  the  finished  level  of  the 
bed.  One  reason  for  the  lack  of  suckers  is  that  the 
Multiflora  is  budded  from  seedlings,  while  the  Briar 
is  usually  budded  from  cuttings,  in  which  case  there 
are  dormant  eyes  below  the  point  where  the  bud  is 
inserted;  whereas  in  the  seedlings,  the  bud  is  inserted 
below  the  dormant  eyes. 

Very  often  cuttings  have  only  greenhouse  growth 
when  shipped.  At  best  they  are  generally  propagated 
under  glass  and  have  not  had  much  outdoor  growth, 
whereas  budded  plants  are  budded  in  the  summer 
out-of-doors,  and  have  even  as  yearlings  a  whole 
season's  outside  growth  before  being  sold. 

In  one  particular  instance  the  following  experi- 
ment was  made  with  own  root  stock. 

One  bed  was  made,  and  over  fifty  roses  on  their 
own  roots  and  fifty  budded  roses  were  planted  in  it 
side  by  side,  all  of  old  and  established  varieties,  and, 

21 


OUTDOOR  ROSE  GROWING 

in  the  case  of  the  own  root  plants,  purchased  from  a 
grower  who  advocates  their  use.  At  the  end  of  the 
first  summer  the  difference  was  plainly  apparent  and 
was  strongly  hi  favor  of  the  budded  plants.  At  the 
end  of  two  years  there  was  no  possible  doubt  as  to 
the  result;  the  budded  plants  were  far  superior. 
Experiments  with  other  roses  have  endorsed  this 
result,  and  budded  roses  are  recommended  for  all 
outdoor  work  for  the  majority  of  roses  contained  in 
the  lists,  whether  Hybrid  Teas,  Hybrid  Perpetuals, 
Teas,  Chinas,  or  Pernetianas. 

The  roses  which  do  well  on  their  own  roots  must 
be  secured  in  two-year-old  plants  to  obtain  the  best 
results,  and  should  either  be  planted  in  the  fall  from 
dormant  field  grown  stock,  or  planted  in  the  spring 
from  pots  after  the  weather  is  settled,  and  for  the 
best  results  procured  from  a  nursery  near  at  hand. 
Such  plants  will  become  established  toward  fall  and 
usually  give  fair  results  at  that  tune. 

In  the  case  of  climbers  and  some  few  very  strong 
growers  the  own  root  roses  will  give  good  results,  but 
as  a  working  rule  they  cannot  be  recommended.  In 
one  garden  budded  roses,  originally  planted  in  the 
autumn  of  1900  and  moved  to  their  present  place 
in  1907,  are  still  strong  and  healthy,  and  of  the  origi- 
nal lot  less  than  two  per  cent,  have  died  hi  over  fif- 
teen years. 

22 


THE  PROPAGATION  OF  ROSES 

In  another  case  budded  roses  planted  over  thirty 
years  ago  are  still  flourishing,  and  this  certainly 
shows  that  their  length  of  life  is  all  that  can  be 
expected. 

In  the  testing  of  new  roses  the  great  majority  has 
been  budded  plants  and  the  percentage  of  deaths  has 
naturally  been  greater  hi  these  new  varieties  than  in 
established  kinds.  In  importing  three  hundred  to 
a  thousand  roses  of  new  varieties,  twenty  plants  a 
year  would  cover  all  the  deaths  even  of  these  new 
and  untried  kinds. 

In  other  branches  of  horticulture  budding  and 
grafting  have  been  tried  with  the  greatest  success. 
It  does  seem  that  a  tried  stock  is  better  than  a  differ- 
ent stock  with  each  plant,  viz.,  its  own. 

Undoubtedly  better  stocks  will  be  discovered  for 
certain  roses  which  do  not  do  well  on  the  regular 
stocks;  but  surely  it  is  going  backward  to  grow 
inferior  roses  on  their  own  roots  and  be  satisfied 
with  them,  rather  than  experiment  to  ascertain  the 
best  stocks. 

"The  Nursery  Book,"  by  L.  H.  Bailey,  should  be 
read  by  any  one  attempting  budding. 
GRAFTING 

Grafting  is  a  modification  of  budding,  and  is  a 
process  which  may  give  as  good  a  result  in  the  end 
with  some  outdoor  roses;  but  for  the  first  year,  after 

23 


OUTDOOR  ROSE  GROWING 

planting  outside,  the  bush  does  not  make  as  much 
progress,  and  the  death-rate  has  been  much  greater 
with  grafted  stock  than  with  budded  plants.  Unfor- 
tunately grafts  do  not  take  very  well  on  the  Briar, 
therefore  grafters  use  the  Manetti  which,  as  ex- 
plained above,  is  not  the  best  stock  for  Teas  and 
Hybrid  Teas. 

Grafting  is  mostly  used  to  increase  new  varieties 
which,  if  budded,  would  necessarily  have  to  be 
operated  upon  in  the  late  summer,  the  bud  not  devel- 
oping until  the  following  spring;  whereas,  in  graft- 
ing, a  part  of  the  plant  desired  to  be  propagated  is 
grafted  upon  the  stock  indoors  and  growth  at  once 
begins;  this  is  a  very  much  quicker  operation, 
but  not  so  sure  of  success  as  budding  for  outdoor 
roses. 

Grafting  requires  great  skill  and  is  used  to  obtain 
quick  results.  Seedlings  to  be  tested  are  often 
grafted  and  a  verdict  quickly  arrived  at.  There  are 
numerous  methods  employed  in  grafting,  but  the 
principle  is  the  same  in  all;  the  variety  required  is 
spliced  on  the  stock  and,  as  in  budding,  the  strength 
of  the  stock  all  goes  into  the  variety  desired. 

The  books  mentioned  for  cuttings  and  budding 
give  the  best  articles  on  grafting,  in  addition  to  which 
"Parsons  on  the  Rose"  contains  good,  clear  and 

explicit  information  on  all  these  subjects. 

24 


THE  PROPAGATION  OF  ROSES 

NEW  VARIETIES 

New  varieties  of  roses  are  developed  in  two  ways : 
by  sports  and  seedlings. 
SPORTS 

Sports  are  purely  a  matter  of  chance,  and  occur 
when  any  given  variety  shows  a  bloom  or  habit  of 
growth  different  from  the  accepted  plant.  When  this 
occurs  propagation  of  the  wood  by  cuttings,  budding 
or  grafting  establishes  the  new  variety. 

As  illustrations  of  sports,  the  two  following  are 
well  known  and  are  changes  from  the  parent  stock 
hi  the  color  of  the  bloom  itself: 

La  France,  color  silver  rose,  sported  with  Paul  & 
Sons,  near  London,  in  1888,  and  gave  the  Duchess 
of  Albany,  called  dark  La  France,  a  rich,  deep  pink. 
This  was  propagated  andJDuchess  of  Albany  is  now 
a  well-established  variety. 

Camoens,  pale  rose  color  with  the  base  of  the  petals 
yellow,  sported  with  Boytard,  in  1907,  and  the  new 
rose  was  called  Ecarlate,  a  brilliant  scarlet. 

With  these  two  new  varieties  the  habit  of  growth 
of  the  plants  remained  practically  the  same  as  their 
parents;  it  was  only  in  the  color  of  the  rose  that  the 
change  manifested  itself. 

In  the  past  few  years  the  old  rose,  Killarney,  has 
sported  a  number  of  times,  giving  among  others 
Killarney  Brilliant,  a  rose  of  a  deeper  shade  of  pink; 

25 


OUTDOOR.  ROSE  GROWING 

White  Killarney,  a  rose,  as  the  name  implies,  of  a 
beautiful  white;  and  Double  Killarney,  a  rose  of 
greater  substance  in  petallage  than  the  stock  from 
which  it  sprang. 

Before  so  many  hybrids  were  cultivated,  and  when 
roses  were  not  grown  to  as  great  an  extent  as  now, 
sports  were  naturally  less  frequent.  Of  course  varie- 
ties which  are  crosses,  such  as  the  hybrids  of  today, 
are  very  much  more  likely  to  give  different  growth 
or  different  bloom  than  the  old  varieties,  which  were 
not  so  far  removed  from  the  original  species. 

Changes  in  habit  of  growth  occur  as  well  as  changes 
in  bloom,  and  a  great  many  of  the  Hybrid  Teas  and 
some  Polyanthas  have  produced  sports  which  have 
much  more  of  a  climbing  habit  than  the  dwarf  bush 
from  which  such  new  varieties  originated.  The 
bloom  in  form  and  color  is  practically  identical  with 
the  parent  stock,  although  its  period  of  flowering  is 
usually  shorter  and  its  bloom  less  profuse. 

There  is  one  very  interesting  illustration  of  a  rose 
which  sported,  the  new  growth  of  which  when  prop- 
agated reverted  to  the  original  form  of  its  parent 
stock.  Heinrich  Schultheis,  a  Hybrid  Perpetual  rose 
of  deep,  rosy  pink,  sported  with  Paul  &  Sons,  of 
London,  and  produced  Paul's  Early  Blush,  a  light 
silvery  pink.  Again  it  sported  with  Alex.  Dickson 
&  Sons,  in  Ireland,  and  produced  another  silvery 

26 


Fiu.  7 

SEEDLINGS  SHOWING  VARIED  GROWTHS 

....  On  ?he  left-hand  side  seedling  of  a  Hybrid  Tea.  On  the  right-hand  side  seedling  of  a 
Y\  ichuraiana.  Both  these  plants  are  of  the  same  age  and  have  received  identical  care.  Note 
different  habit  of  growth  ev?n  at  this  early  stage  in  the  life  of  the  plants 


THE  PROPAGATION  OF  ROSES 

pink,  known  as  Mrs.  Harkness.  Both  of  these  new 
roses  were  perpetuated  and  became  quite  popular 
before  the  Hybrid  Teas  came  into  general  notice. 
In  the  year  1913  Dr.  Robert  Huey,  of  Philadelphia, 
still  had  plants  of  Paul's  Early  Blush  and  Mrs. 
Harkness.  It  was  remarkable  that  specimens  of 
both  these  plants  partially  reverted  to  the  old  form 
of  Heinrich  Schultheis,  throwing  up  shoots  with  rose 
colored  blooms. 

While  sports  are  of  rare  occurrence,  nevertheless 
it  would  well  repay  all  rose  lovers  to  watch  for  such 
breaks,  as  valuable  novelties  may  thereby  be  secured 
which  otherwise  would  be  lost. 
SEEDLINGS 

Seedlings,  as  the  name  signifies,  come  from  seeds 
hybridized  either  by  chance  or  by  man's  handiwork. 
Nearly  all  the  older  rose  growers  gathered  then*  heps 
containing  the  seeds  in  the  autumn  of  each  year  and 
planted  great  numbers  of  these  in  nursery  rows,  hop- 
ing to  secure  new  varieties;  in  this  manner  a  great 
many  of  the  Hybrid  Perpetuals  were  discovered  and 
introduced.  However,  of  late  years  the  commercial 
rose  growers  of  Europe  have  hybridized  different 
varieties  of  roses,  and  by  careful  selection  and  breed- 
ing for  several  generations  are  securing  their  new 

introductions. 

27 


OUTDOOR  ROSE  GROWING 

In  Europe  this  work  is  maintained  on  a  very  large 
scale.  Thousands  upon  thousands  of  seedlings  are 
raised  each  year,  and  only  a  very  small  percentage 
are  of  any  practical  use.  In  this  country  only  a  few 
men  have  achieved  any  great  success  in  introducing 
new  varieties — John  Cook,  of  Baltimore,  Maryland ; 
E.  G.  HiU,  of  Richmond,  Indiana;  M.  H.  Walsh,  of 
Woods  Hole,  Massachusetts;  Dr.  Van  Fleet,  of  Wash- 
ington; W.  A.  Manda,  of  New  Jersey;  and  the  late 
Jackson  Dawson,  of  the  Arnold  Arboretum.  In  the 
American  Rose  Annual  only  twelve  men  are  men- 
tioned as  having  introduced  new  varieties  in  this 
country.  Cook  introduced  My  Maryland  and  Radi- 
ance, and  lately  he  has  brought  out  Panama;  and 
Hill  has  given  us  quite  a  number  of  good  roses,  the 
best  perhaps  for  outdoor  culture  being  General  Mac- 
Arthur,  which  is  one  of  the  finest  all-round  outdoor 
red  roses  grown  in  America  today.  Walsh,  Manda 
and  Van  Fleet  have  been  particularly  successful  in 
developing  new  climbers — Walsh's  most  notable 
being  Excelsa,  Hiawatha,  Sweetheart  and  Evan- 
geline,  all  excellent  additions  and  ranking  with  the 
best  of  this  class. 

Father  George  Schoener,  of  Portland,  Oregon,  is 
doing  some  very  fine  work,  not  only  in  new  varieties 
of  roses,  but  also  in  new  stocks  for  budding.  In 
addition,  he  is  making  crosses  between  different  mem- 

28 


THE  PROPAGATION  OF  ROSES 

bers  of  the  Rosacese  order.  His  seedlings  won  a 
silver  medal  at  Portland  in  the  fall  of  1915.  It  is 
hoped  that  ere  long  some  of  his  novelties  will  be  on 
the  market. 

Following  will  be  found  a  tabulated  record  of  the 
breeding  of  the  main  varieties  in  which  the  Hybrid 
Perpetuals  and  Teas  figure.  It  has  not  been  arranged 
at  all  in  conformity  with  the  usual  botanical  analy- 
ses of  species  and  sub-species,  but  the  information 
given  has  been  taken  from  such  books  as  Pemberton's 
and  placed  together  so  that  the  history  of  the  breed- 
ing of  the  different  varieties  may  be  seen  at  a  glance. 
There  are  several  authorities  who  have  noted  that 
the  exact  breeding  of  the  Hybrid  Perpetuals  is  to 
some  extent  problematical.  The  roses  named  as  the 
Hybrid  Perpetuals'  immediate  ancestors  are  gener- 
ally accepted  as  such,  but  some  few  other  varieties 
were  used  in  the  gradual  evolution  of  this  class  from 
the  first  Hybrid  Perpetual  until  the  list  was  com- 
pleted. At  the  present  time  there  are  fewer  Hybrid 
Perpetuals  bred,  as  the  Hybrid  Teas  have  almost 
entirely  superseded  them. 

The  work  of  hybridization  is  a  most  interesting 
one,  but  unless  carried  out  on  a  scientific  scale  it  is 
almost  entirely  a  matter  of  chance  whether  or  not 
anything  of  Rvalue  may  be  secured.  No  doubt  any 
one  cultivating  roses  to  a  large  extent  would  greatly 


OUTDOOR  ROSE  GROWING 


>ersian    ) 
Yellow  V  Luteae 
Briar     j 


A  By  some\  /  Damask 
ansidered  \  \ 


Pernctiana 

Pernet-Ducher, 
1900 


X 


.     __    some 
)amask 

Perpetual,  I   first    of 
1812  \Hybrid 

J'erpetuals. 


X 

Hybrid 
China 


Hybrid  Perpetual.. 
Laffay,  1830. 
Held   sway  till 
1890 


Bourbon  Perpetual < 


"Chance  fertiliza- 
tion supposedly 
between  China 
and  Red  Four 
Seasona,  1817- 
1822 


Hybrid  Tea 
Guillot,  1867 


rbrid  China 


Provence 
Brought    to 
England    from 
France  about 
1600 

X 

China 


Later  Noisettes. . . 


ea— Indica  Odorata 
Introduced  from 
China,  1810-1824. 
First  improved  in 
France  where  the 
climbing  teas  were 
bred 


f  China  Common  Blush 

oisette )         X 

Philippe  Noisette,  ]  Musk  Rose 

American^     (Rosa  Moschata) 

30 


an 
grower, 


1817 


THE  PROPAGATION  OP  ROSES 

enjoy  trying  to  introduce  a  new  variety  of  his  own 
breeding. 

Ordinarily  to  hybridize  roses  properly  one  must 
have  a  greenhouse  and  it  is  astonishing  what  results 
may  be  obtained  in  a  very  small  one. 

In  exceptionally  dry  climates  the  work  may  be 
carried  on  successfully  out-of-doors. 

Books  on  this  subject  which  are  interesting  and 
practical  are: 

"The  American  Rose  Annual." 

"Plant  Breeding,"  L.  H.  Bailey. 

"Plant  Breeding,  Experiments  of  Nillson  and  Bur- 
bank,"  De  Vries. 

"Plant  Life  and  Evolution,"  Campbell. 

"New  Creations  in  Plant  Life,"  Harwood. 

"Fundamentals  of  Plant  Breeding,"  Coulter. 

In  Chapter  X  will  be  found  a  few  hints  on  hybridi- 
zation. 


n 

THE  BEST  VARIETIES  WITH  THEIR 
CHARACTERISTICS 

THE  rose  has  been  the  Queen  of  Beauty  among 
flowers  as  far  back  as  records  go.  Down  the  ages  she 
has  held  her  position  unchallenged.  India,  Persia, 
China,  Japan,  Greece,  Italy,  and  the  rest  of  Europe 
all  pay  her  homage  hi  verse  and  story.  The  rose 
is  a  native  of  all  these  countries,  and  those  of  the 
twentieth  century  are  the  gradual  evolution  from 
the  original  types  to  our  almost  perfect  flower.  At 
first  this  evolution  was  slow  and  greatly  due  to  chance. 
Hybridization  was  neither  understood  nor  practised. 
New  roses  came  from  seed,  or  from  some  new  variety 
thrown  out  by  an  old  stock  and  noticed  and  propa- 
gated. Nature's  friend,  the  bee,  did  most  of  the 
crossing  of  varieties,  but  such  progress  did  not  suit 
rose  growers,  and  from  the  gambling  methods  of 
chance  seeds  systematic  hybridization  became  the 
order  of  the  day.  At  once  the  rose  list  increased 
by  leaps  and  bounds,  for  the  field  was  of  extreme 
fascination  and  boundless  possibilities. 

Without  going  into  the  history  of  all  the  various 

32 


BEST  VARIETIES  WITH  CHARACTERISTICS 

steps,  it  is  sufficient  to  say  that  about  1825  the 
Hybrid  Perpetual  began  to  take  first  place  in  the 
rose  world.  Perfectly  hardy,  of  fine  growth,  having 
a  longer  period  of  bloom  than  its  predecessors  of 
equal  growth  and  beauty,  it  became  more  and  more 
popular,  and  held  its  sway  until  about  1890.  Its  dis- 
advantage was  its  short  period  of  bloom  compared 
with  Teas  and  Chinas  which,  while  very  much 
smaller  in  growth,  were  more  constant  bloomers  and, 
as  a  general  rule,  superior  to  the  Hybrid  Perpetuals 
in  foliage. 

Tea  roses  had  existed  in  England  and  France  from 
early  in  the  nineteenth  century,  and  yet  after  the 
cross  of  the  Damask  and  Hybrid  China,  which  gave 
the  rose  world  the  first  Hybrid  Perpetual,  it  was  not 
until  1867  that  the  first  cross  of  merit  between  the 
Teas  and  the  Hybrid  Perpetuals  made  its  appearance. 
At  once  the  rose  world  obtained  what  it  had  so  long 
desired,  combining  in  a  seedling  the  best  of  both 
parents,  a  rose  as  hardy,  or  nearly  as  hardy,  as  the 
Hybrid  Perpetuals — a  rose  that  bloomed  practi- 
cally as  often  as  the  Tea  and  that  had  fine  foliage  and 
perfume.  This  rose,  the  first  of  the  great  army  of 
Hybrid  Teas  which  was  to  follow,  was  La  France, 
introduced  by  Guillot  Fils,  its  parents  being  Madame 
Victor  Verdier  and  Madame  Bravy.  Madame  Victor 

Verdier  was  a  Hybrid  Perpetual,  introduced  by  E. 

33 


OUTDOOR  ROSE  GROWING 

Verdier  in  1863,  and  Madame  Bravy  was  a  Tea 
raised  by  Guillot,  of  Pont  Cherin,  in  1848. 

The  next  Hybrid  Tea  that  appeared  and  stood 
the  test  of  time  was  Reine  Marie  Henriette,  raised 
by  Levet,  in  1878,  from  Madame  Berard  (of  Gloire 
de  Dijon)  and  General  Jacqueminot;  the  first  of 
Tea  blood,  and  the  second  a  Hybrid  Perpetual.  This 
rose  is  listed  in  English  catalogues  of  today  in  the 
climbing  section  as  a  Hybrid  Tea,  although  still  con- 
sidered by  some  as  a  Tea,  and  so  listed  in  the  Dutch 
Rozennaamlijist  of  1909. 

After  the  introduction  of  these  two  roses,  the  work 
went  on  still  further  and  cross  breedings  of  hybrids 
obtained  by  hybridization  soon  began  to  swell  the 
list  of  new  roses. 

Roses  so  obtained  are  known  as  pedigree  roses  and 
very  seldom  is  their  breeding  given,  although  it  seems 
an  open  secret  that  three  generations  are  often  re- 
quired before  a  new  rose  of  merit  is  secured.  The 
breeders  and  introducers  of  new  roses  have  guarded 
their  breeding  secrets  with  the  greatest  care  hi  the 
past,  and  little  or  no  information  as  to  their  special 
methods  is  obtainable.  This  secrecy  has  seemed  em- 
inently proper,  but  for  the  future  improvement  of  the 
rose,  the  pedigrees  of  all  new  roses  should  be  given  to 
the  world  so  that  other  breeders  may  try  like  com- 
binations. The  professional  breeders  would  still  be 

34 


BEST  VARIETIES  WITH  CHARACTERISTICS 

able  to  make  their  profit  from  their  new  roses,  and 
the  rose  world  would  be  greatly  benefited  by  this 
knowledge. 

While  it  is  impossible,  therefore,  to  give  the  breed- 
ing of  the  various  pedigree  roses,  nevertheless  a 
few  examples  of  roses  discovered  by  hybridization 
and  cross  breeding  of  one  generation  may  be  of 
interest. 

In  looking  over  the  obtainable  data  it  is  at  once 
noted  that  certain  roses  stand  out  as  having  been 
the  most  successful  parents,  and  of  these  Madame 
Caroline  Testout  ranks  among  the  first;  bred  with 
Souv.  de  M.  Verdier,  Aime*e  Cochet  was  obtained; 
with  Merveille  de  Lyon,  Frau  Karl  Druschki  was 
obtained;  with  Fisher  Holmes,  George  Laing  Paul 
was  obtained;  with  Viscountess  Folkstone,  Konigin 
Carola  'was  obtained;  with  Bridesmaid,  La  Detroit 
was  obtained;  with  Ferdinand  Jamin,  Madame 
Edme'e  Metz  was  obtained. 

In  addition  to  this  Caroline  Testout  has  produced 
quite  a  number  of  sports,  most  noted  of  which  are 
Admiral  Dewey  and  Mrs.  Longworth. 

Another  rose  which  stands  out  prominently  is 
Lady  Mary  Fitzwilliam,  a  pedigree  rose  introduced 
in  1882,  and  one  of  the  parents  of  Caroline  Testout. 
In  1894  this  rose  with  Dr.  Grill  produced  Antoine 
Rivoire,  a  rose  that  is  holding  its  own  among  the 

35 


OUTDOOR  ROSE  GROWING 

newer  Hybrid  Teas  of  today,  and  is  still  by  far  the 
best  rose  of  its  shade  in  this  country.  Crossed  with 
La  France,  in  1894,  Lady  Mary  Fitzwilliam  gave 
Mrs.  W.  J.  Grant  (syn.  Belle  Siebrecht),  a  rose  still 
popular;  Kaiserin  Augusta  Victoria  resulted  when 
she  was  crossed  with  Coquette  de  Lyon.  Kaiserin 
Augusta  Victoria  is  unique  hi  color  and  must  be 
included  in  any  large  collection. 

EUwanger's  chapter  on  "Seed  Parents  of  Leading 
Roses,"  hi  his  book,  "The  Rose,"  gives  some  very 
interesting  data  on  this  subject. 

About  1890,  owing  to  its  longer  period  of  bloom, 
the  Hybrid  Tea  had  pushed  the  Hybrid  Perpetual 
out  of  first  place  in  popularity,  and  from  that  tune 
on  has  held  sway  as  the  premier  class.  While  at 
first  much  was  to  be  desired  hi  some  of  the  Hybrid 
Teas,  gradually  they  have  become  improved,  until 
today  there  is  no  question  about  their  being  the  best 
for  the  outdoor  garden;  yet,  hi  so  deciding  on  them 
as  the  most  useful  class,  many  must  be  discarded 
as  worthless  hi  the  climate  of  the  Middle  Atlantic 
States.  The  best  of  the  Teas,  and  some  others,  must 
be  included  in  a  list  which  purports  to  include  the 
best  outdoor  roses. 

In  addition  to  the  hardy  growth  and  long  period 
of  bloom  common  to  the  best  of  the  Hybrid  Teas, 
many  of  them  have  the  long  double  bud  on  the  stiff 

36 


-'  p 

J 


BEST  VARIETIES  WITH  CHARACTERISTICS 

erect  stem  so  much  desired  in  roses,  and  the  best 
varieties  open  slowly  and  keep  well  after  being  cut. 
During  the  past  two  years  a  new  class  has  come 
into  existence — Pernetianas,  introduced  by  the  great 
French  hybridist,  Pernet-Ducher.  The  first  were 
crosses  between  Lutea  and  the  Hybrid  Perpetuals, 
and  have  been  classed  as  Hybrid  Teas  and  Hybrid 
Austrian  Briars  in  many  catalogues.  While  possess- 
ing many  such  characteristics,  they  are,  nevertheless, 
often  distinct  as  to  foliage,  and  on  account  of  their 
breeding  should  be  classed  separately.  Many  have 
the  fault  of  losing  their  foliage  early,  Lyon  Rose 
being  a  great  offender  in  this  respect.  The  new  intro- 
ductions vary  greatly  in  value,  but  the  best,  Madame 
Edouard  Herriot,  is  indispensable;  and  from  the  im- 
provement shown  it  is  evident  that  this  new  class 
will  have  great  bearing  on  the  future  of  the  outdoor 
rose.  Already  traces  of  the  new  cross  may  be  noticed 
in  many  of  this  year's  introductions,  especially  in 
the  foliage  and  color.  Many  seedlings  with  Perne- 
tiana  blood  are  so  distinct  that  they  may  be  readily 
picked  out  from  other  seedlings.  The  foliage  is  beau- 
tiful and  distinct  while  it  lasts,  and  undoubtedly  a 
cross  will  soon  be  made  which  will  show  even  greater 
improvement  than  Madame  Edouard  Herriot  over 
Lyon — the  latter  rose  is  already  nearly  obsolete. 

Unfortunately,  it  is  difficult  to  find  roses  well 

37 


OUTDOOR  ROSE  GROWING 

suited  to  our  climate.  The  winters  are  more  severe 
and  the  summers  hotter  than  the  conditions  to  which 
imported  roses  and  their  forbears  have  been  accus- 
tomed, so  that  many  of  the  roses  which  flourish  in 
Europe  are  worthless  with  us. 

The  main  classes  are  grown  in  two  ways,  as  dwarfs 
and  as  standards.  Standards  differ  from  dwarfs  or 
bushes  (ordinary  form)  in  that  they  are  generally 
budded  on  strong  Briar  and  other  stocks  from  two 
and  one-half  to  four  feet  from  the  ground.  They 
are  most  attractive  and  some  are  more  easily  reached 
than  the  dwarfs,  as  the  blooms  grow  about  the  level 
of  the  eye,  while  all  of  them  are  adapted  to  formal 
gardens  and  landscape  work.  However,  they  can- 
not be  recommended  unless  absolute  winter  protec- 
tion is  given,  and  this  is  best  accomplished  by  placing 
boards  around  the  plant,  encasing  it  from  the  ground 
to  above  the  bud  and  filling  in  with  earth. 

In  the  case  of  some  of  the  climbers,  which  are 
used  as  standards,  an  attractive  effect  is  produced 
by  allowing  the  trailing  shoots  of  such  plants  to 
grow  downwards,  more  or  less  like  the  weeping  wil- 
low tree,  and  these  are  called  weeping  standards, 
otherwise  they  are  the  same  as  the  regular  standard. 
In  the  case  of  some  of  the  Teas,  which  are  grown 
very  close  to  the  ground  in  this  way,  they  can  be 
more  thoroughly  protected  hi  cold  winters  than  they 

38 


BEST  VARIETIES  WITH  CHARACTERISTICS 

could  be  if  grown  as  the  usual  standard.  It  is  believed 
that  Teas  are  especially  prolific  when  grown  in  this 
manner.  One  well-known  writer  states  that  he  has 
seen  such  a  Tea  with  seventy-five  blooms  on  it  at 
one  time. 

Standards  usually  require  more  room  than  dwarfs 
and  this  is  another  reason  why  they  are  not  planted 
so  extensively.  If  used,  the  varieties  contained  in 
the  main  list  are  strongly  recommended.  Dwarfs  are 
budded  close  to  the  root  of  the  stock  and  the  bud 
is  planted  below  the  ground  level,  hence  they  are 
hardier  and  much  more  easily  handled  in  winter 
than  standards.  In  experiments  with  standards 
they  have  been  found  to  be  most  uncertain;  some- 
times they  last  for  several  years  and  again  fully  fifty 
per  cent.  die.  An  average  of  ten  per  cent,  would 
be  a  conservative  estimate  for  winter  loss,  unless 
most  thorough  winter  protection  is  given. 

Every  year  the  commercial  rose  growers  in  England 
and  the  Continent  bring  out  their  new  varieties; 
before  a  satisfactory  verdict  can  be  reached  as  to 
their  adaptability  to  this  country  they  must  be  tried 
for  at  least  two  years.  In  many  cases  new  varieties 
are  shipped  as  such  small  grafted  plants  that  for  the 
first  year  it  is  almost  impossible  to  test  them  prop- 
erly, and  a  year  later  larger  plants  must  be  procured. 

Very  probably  these  small  plants  would  do  well 

39 


OUTDOOR  ROSE  GROWING 

abroad,  but  here  they  run  the  risk  of  being  passed 
upon  as  worthless  when  many  may  be  first-class 
varieties. 

Owing  to  the  difference  in  our  climate,  even  the 
color  of  imported  roses  may  vary  somewhat  from 
the  European  catalogued  description.  The  average 
rose  is  generally  somewhat  lighter  in  color,  owing  to 
our  extreme  heat  in  summer.  Killarney  is  an  excep- 
tion which  proves  this  rule.  This  rose  is  catalogued 
in  the  European  lists  as  "  Flesh-shaded  white,  suf- 
fused pale  pink";  in  this  country  it  is  a  solid  light 
pink,  the  shade  depending  on  the  sunlight,  being 
deeper  hi  bright,  hot  weather.  In  the  early  spring 
and  in  the  autumn  the  color  of  most  roses  is  darker 
than  hi  the  summer,  some  varieties  that  usually 
have  a  slight  yellow  tint  becoming  almost  pink  under 
frosty  nights  and  warm  days.  Mainly  for  the  first 
reason  given  it  is  a  lottery  for  the  average  rose 
grower  to  order  new  varieties;  the  greater  part  will 
prove  utter  disappointments,  a  waste  of  money,  space, 
time  and  care,  and  the  catalogued  description  must 
be  more  than  discounted. 

This  book  should  guide  the  American  purchaser 
to  order  those  roses  which  will  give  him  the  best 
results.  To  secure  a  perfect  list  of  such  roses,  every 
variety  found  in  the  best  catalogues  has  been  care- 
fully tested,  and  in  the  lists  at  the  end  of  this  chapter 

40 


BEST  VARIETIES  WITH  CHARACTERISTICS 

there  have  been  included  all  which  have  come  up  to 
a  certain  standard.  Those  excluded  have  not  proved 
successful  after  a  test  in  which  all  had  the  same 
chance. 

During  the  fall  of  1914,  when  the  list  of  the  six- 
teen best  all-round  varieties  was  selected,  the  roses 
included  were  by  all  odds  the  best  sixteen  varieties 
for  general  cultivation.  Since  that  time,  however, 
the  situation  has  greatly  changed  owing  to  the  num- 
ber of  new  roses  introduced.  Not  only  have  many 
Hybrid  Teas  been  brought  out,  but  the  new  race  of 
Pernetianas  has  further  complicated  the  problem. 
In  these  two  years  during  which  all  these  domestic 
and  foreign  roses  have  been  put  on  the  market  it  has 
been  very  difficult  to  make  comprehensive  tests  as 
to  the  value  of  each  new  introduction;  nevertheless 
every  new  rose  has  been  or  is  on  trial,  and  informa- 
tion from  other  sections  of  the  country  carefully  con- 
sidered. Furthermore,  it  was  most  important  to  try 
as  many  roses  as  possible  on  different  stocks,  and  to 
this  end  careful  experiments  were  made  to  learn  the 
best  stock  for  each  variety.  In  many  cases  the  Mul- 
tiflora  has  greatly  unproved  certain  roses;  in  many 
others  there  is  little  difference  between  Briar  and 
Multiflora,  while  in  a  few  instances  the  Briar  is  the 
best.  Another  valuable  phase  of  the  work  has  been 
the  cultivating  of  weak  growers  and  poor  bloomers 

41 


OUTDOOR  ROSE  GROWING 

in  special  beds;  and  here  again  no  absolute  rule  was 
discovered,  but  it  was  proved  that  by  the  use  of  such 
beds  remarkable  results  could  be  obtained  in  certain 
cases.  Where  of  value,  special  stocks  and  beds  are 
recommended  hereafter. 

There  has  been  a  great  deal  of  kindly  criticism  and 
comment  regarding  the  old  sixteen,  much  of  which  is 
strictly  to  the  point,  and  many  of  the  suggestions 
received  have  been  very  valuable.  It  is  therefore 
better  to  give  a  list  of  the  forty-eight  roses  which 
have  stood  out  as  the  best  instead  of  making  an 
arbitrary  list  of  sixteen  roses.  In  following  out  this 
scheme,  twelve  roses  have  been  selected  in  the  lighter 
shades,  twelve  in  the  pink,  twelve  in  the  red,  and 
twelve  in  the  yellow,  the  latter  including  the  orange 
and  copper  colorings.  It  will  be  appreciated  that 
the  roses  given  under  each  main  color  will,  to  some 
extent,  overlap  from  one  section  to  the  other;  the 
darkest  color  under  the  lighter  section  will  approach 
the  lightest  color  under  the  darker  section.  By  plac- 
ing twelve  roses  in  each  list  there  will  be  little  doubt 
that  the  best  are  included,  and  from  the  careful 
descriptions  given  the  reader  will  be  able  to  secure 
the  roses  most  suited  to  his  needs. 

It  will  be  noted  that  the  original  first  sixteen  have 
been  displaced  in  some  cases  by  other  roses.  This  is 
not  because  they  have  not  lived  up  to  their  reputa- 

42 


OPHELIA 


BEST  VARIETIES  WITH  CHARACTERISTICS 

tion,  as  they  have  continued  to  do  as  well  as  they 
did  formerly,  but  newer  roses  brought  out  and  tested 
during  the  past  few  years  have  been  improvements 
over  them. 

No  Hybrid  Perpetuals  are  included  in  the  list  of 
the  forty-eight  best  garden  roses  because  the  Hybrid 
Teas,  where  they  may  be  grown,  are  far  superior.  As 
an  illustration  of  this,  Frau  Karl  Druschki,  tested 
near  Philadelphia  by  Dr.  Huey  with  two  exception- 
ally fine  plants,  gave  an  average  of  thirty-eight 
blooms  during  1916,  and  the  blooming  season  was 
over  in  July.  In  very  damp  seasons  Druschki  will 
give  scattering  blooms  in  the  early  fall.  Madame 
Jules  Bouche  gives  more  blooms  than  Druschki 
throughout  the  season,  with  better  perfume,  and  is 
therefore  considered  of  more  value  than  Druschki 
except  in  the  North. 

LIGHT  COLORED  SECTION 

There  are  many  light-colored  roses,  and  it  is  so 
difficult  to  know  where  they  verge  into  the  lighter 
pinks  or  lighter  yellows  that  no  arbitrary  line  can 
be  drawn.  The  roses  selected  are  placed  in  the  order 
of  personal  preference. 

The  most  beautiful  of  this  class  for  cut  flowers  are 
Madame  Jules  Bouche,  Ophelia,  Souvenir  du  Presi- 
dent Carnot,  Antoine  Rivoire  and  Mrs.  Harold 

Brocklebank,  although  other  roses  are  of  fair  enough 

43 


OUTDOOR  ROSE  GROWING 

form  to  do  quite  well  in  this  respect.  For  garden 
decoration  Madame  Jules  Bouche,  Jacques  Porcher 
and  La  Tosca,  on  account  of  their  growth  and  num- 
ber of  blooms,  excel.  The  perfume  in  light-colored 
roses  is  not  as  distinct  as  hi  the  pinks  and  reds,  the 
best  being  Ophelia. 

MADAME  JULES  BOUCHE  ;  Hybrid  Tea ;  Croibier  &  Fils,  191 1 .  White — 
center  shaded  primrose  or  lightest  blush — varies. 

Novelty In  color,  growth  and  blooming  qualities. 

Color Clear  and  very  attractive. 

Fragrance Mild. 

Lasting Color  good;  fragrance  brief;  form  almost  perfect. 

Shape Good  in  bud  and  open  flower. 

Substance Fair. 

Petallage Perfect. 

Size Medium,  but  varies. 

Blooming May  and  June  11;  July  22:  August  7;  Sept.  16; 

October  and  late  15;  total  71. 
Hardiness Strong;  canes  living  8  to  12  inches  above  ground  level 

in  the  spring. 
Foliage Occasionally  susceptible  to  mildew;  seldom  affected 

by  spot. 

Growth Exceptionally  fine;  tall  and  plenty  of  canes. 

Stem Long,  and  fairly  upright. 

Plant 24  inches. 

Prune 6  eyes. 

Note Personal  preference  for  best  light-colored  rose. 

GRANGE  COLOMBE;  Hybrid  Tea,;  Guillot,  1912.    Cream  white  with 
salmon  yellow  and  fawn  center. 

Novelty In  color  and  blooming. 

Color Clear  and  most  attractive. 

Fragrance Mild. 

Lasting Color  good;  fragrance  brief;  form  good. 

Shape Bud  almost  perfect;  open  flower  somewhat  loose. 

Substance Above  the  average. 

Petallage Deficient. 

Size Well  above  medium. 

Blooming May  and  June  9;  July  15;  August  9;  September  14; 

October  and  late  8;  total  55. 

Hardiness Strong;  canes  living  8  to  10  inches  above  ground  level 

in  spring. 

Foliage Slightly  susceptible  to  mildew  and  spot. 

Growth Sturdy  and  erect,  with  good  number  of  canes. 

44 


JACQUES  PORCHER 


••* 


BEST  VARIETIES  WITH  CHARACTERISTICS 

Stem Strong,  but  not  exceptionally  long. 

Plant 22  inches. 

Prune 5  eyes. 

Note Of  distinct  color  and  does  best  as  an  all-round  rose. 

Needs  a  heavy  soil.    Has  done  well  in  the  Pacific 

Northwest  with  Mr.  Currey. 

OPHELIA;  Hybrid  Tea;  Wm.  Paul,  1912.  Salmon  flesh,  center 
shaded  light  yellow  at  base  of  petals. 

Novelty In  color,  shape  and  lasting. 

Color Distinct,  clear  and  beautiful. 

Fragrance Fair,  very  delicate. 

Lasting Color  good;  fragrance  fair,  form  very  good. 

Shape Very  good  in  bud  and  open  flower. 

Substance Fair. 

Petallage Perfect. 

Size Medium,  not  affected  by  heat  to  any  extent. 

Blooming.  .  . .  .May  and  June  9;  July  12;  August  9;  September  5; 
October  and  late  10;  total  45. 

Hardiness No  deaths;  canes  living  6  to  8  inches  above  ground 

level  in  spring. 

Foliage Somewhat  susceptible  to  mildew  and  spot. 

Growth Fairly  good. 

Stem Long,  usually  of  good  strength. 

Plant 20  inches. 

Prune 5  eyes. 

Note Ophelia  is  an  improved  Prince  de  Bulgarie,  which 

accounts  for  the  omission  of  the  latter  in  the  list. 
Ophelia  is  strongly  recommended  on  account  of 
its  beauty  of  color,  although  not  as  profuse  a 
bloomer  as  the  first  two  mentioned.  It  does  better 
on  the  Multiflora  than  on  the  Briar. 

JACQUES  PORCHER;  Hybrid  Tea;  Guillot,  1914.  Passing  from  white 
shaded  carmine  on  saffron  center,  to  clear  yellow  with  a  darker 
center. 

Novelty In  color,  foliage,  blooming  qualities  and  growth. 

Color Very  attractive. 

Fragrance Mild. 

Lasting Color  good;  fragrance  brief;  form  good. 

Shape Fair  in  bud  and  open  flower. 

Substance Fair. 

Petallage Fair — varies. 

Size Medium  to  small. 

Blooming May  and  June  16;  July  17;  August  4;  September  14; 

October  and  late  18;  total  69. 

Hardiness Canes  living  6  to  12  inches  above  ground  level  in 

spring. 

Foliage Almost  perfect. 

45 


OUTDOOR  ROSE  GROWING 

Growth Very  large. 

Stem Fair  in  length  and  strength. 

Plant 24  inches. 

Prune 7  eyes. 

Note Especially  recommended  as  an  all-round  rose.    This 

variety  may  be  hard  to  secure  in  quantity  for 

some  time. 

SOUVENIR  DU  PRESIDENT  CARNOT;  Hybrid  Tea;  Pernet-Ducher, 
1895.  Flesh  shaded  white.  With  us,  flesh  to  light  shell  pink  center. 

Novelty In  color  and  shape. 

Color Most  distinct. 

Fragrance Mild. 

Lasting Color  good;  fragrance  brief;  form  good. 

Shape Very  good  in  bud  and  open  flower. 

Substance Good. 

Petallage Perfect. 

Size Well  above  medium. 

Blooming May  and  June  9;  July  10;  August  4;  September  6; 

October  and  late  5;  total  34. 

Hardiness Canes  living  8  inches  above  ground  level  in  the  spring. 

Foliage Very  good;  only  slightly  susceptible  to  mildew  and 

spot. 

Growth Not  of  the  best;  tall  but  not  uniform. 

Stem Fairly  loitag,  but  quite  weak. 

Plant 20  inches. 

Prune 5  eyes. 

Note One  of  the  best  light  colored  roses  when  grown  on  the 

Multiflora;  not  as  good  on  the  Briar  unless  grown 

in  a  special  bed. 

PHARISAER;  Hybrid  Tea;  W.  Hinner,  1903.    Rosy  white,  shaded 
salmon. 

Novelty In  color. 

Color Clear  and  attractive. 

Fragrance Mild. 

Lasting Color  good;  fragrance  brief;  form  good. 

Shape Attractive  in"  bud  and  holding  high  pointed  center 

when  open. 

Substance Above  the  average. 

Petallage Perfect. 

Size Good  but  not  of  the  largest. 

Blooming May  and  June  4;  July  12;  August  12;  September  3; 

October  and  late  17;  total  48. 
Hardiness Canes  living  4  to  10  inches  above  ground  level  in  the 

spring. 

Foliage Good;  slightly  susceptible  to  mildew  and  spot. 

Growth Well  above  the  average. 

Stem Long,  but  sometimes  a  trifle  weak. 


BEST  VARIETIES  WITH  CHARACTERISTICS 

Plant 20  inches. 

Prune 5  eyes. 

Note While  always  a  good  rose  on  the  Briar,  never  one  of 

the  best  until  grown  on  the  Multiflora. 

GRUSS  AN  AACHEN;  Polyantha;  Geduldig,  1909.  Delicate  flesh  pink 
and  yellow,  with  deeper  center;  darker  in  bud  form.  Color 
quickly  fades  in  hot  weather,  becoming  almost  white. 

Novelty In  color  and  blooming  qualities. 

Color Good,  but  not  perfect  as  it  contains  some  lilac. 

Fragrance Mild. 

Lasting Color  fades;  fragrance  brief;  form  especially  good. 

Shape Fair   in   bud;   attractive   in   open   flower. 

Substance Below  the  average. 

Petallage Only  fair;  too  many  petals,  which  tend  to  be  dwarf. 

Size Medium  to  small. 

Blooming May  and  June  19;  July  21;  August  0;  September  17; 

October  and  late  1;  total  58. 

Hardiness Canes  living  8  inches  above  ground  level  in  the  spring. 

Foliage Immune  from  mildew,  but  susceptible  to  spot. 

Growth Fair. 

Stem Fair. 

Plant 20  inches. 

Prune 5  eyes. 

Note Good  for  low  decoration,  with  some  value  for  cutting. 

MRS.  HERBERT  HAWKSWORTH;  Tea;'  Alex.  Dickson  &  Sons,  1912. 

Deeply  zoned  delicate  ecru  on  milk  white,  becoming  silky 

creamy  white. 

Novelty In  color. 

Color Most  beautiful. 

Fragrance Mild. 

Lasting Color  good;  fragrance  brief;  form  good. 

Shape Fair  in  the  bud;  open  flower  cup  shaped. 

Substance Good. 

Petallage Good,  but  trifle  below  perfect  number. 

Size Above  the  average. 

Blooming May  and  June  9;  July  8;  August  5;  September  9; 

October  and  late  3;  total  34. 

Hardiness Canes  living  6  to  10  inches  above  ground  level  in  the 

spring. 

Foliage Susceptible  to  mildew  and  spot. 

Growth Average. 

Stem Average. 

Plant 20  inches. 

Prune 4  eyes. 

Note Fair  for  all  purposes. 

47 


OUTDOOR  ROSE  GROWING 

ANTOINE  RIVOIRE;  Hybrid  Tea;  Pernet-Ducher,  1896.  Flesh  to 
cream  yellow  peach  center,  sometimes  with  lilac  shading. 

Novelty In  color,  unique  form,  distinct  foliage  and  stem. 

Color Distinct  and  beautiful. 

Fragrance Mild. 

Lasting Color  good;  fragrance  brief;  form  good. 

Shape Bud  not  of  the  best;  opens  flat  but  attractive  and 

pleasing. 

Substance Fine. 

Petallage Too  many  and  small. 

Size Very  large  in  spring;  medium  in  summer  and  fall. 

Blooming May  and  June  8;  July  11;  August  0;  September  6; 

October  and  late  2;  total  27. 
Hardiness Canes  living  6  to  8  inches  above  ground  level  in  the 

spring. 

Foliage Leathery,  and  of  great  substance;  seldom  affected  by 

f   mildew,  but  sometimes  lost  by  spot. 

Growth High  and  strong,  but  lacking  in  number  of  canes. 

Stem Very  long  and  strong,  especially  in  the  spring. 

Plant 20  inches. 

Prune 5  eyes. 

Note Its  worst  fault  is  that  in  most  seasons  there  is  very 

little  August  bloom.    Wonderful  for  cut  flowers  in 

the  spring. 

MRS.  HAROLD  BROCKLEBANK;  Hybrid  Tea;  Alex.  Dickson  &  Sons, 
1907.  Creamy  white,  center  buff;  base  of  petals  soft  golden 
yellow;  outer  petals  frequently  tinted  salmon  rose. 

Novelty In  color  and  shape. 

Color Most  distinct  and  lovely. 

Fragrance Mild. 

Lasting Color  good;  fragrance  brief;  form  good. 

Shape Good  in  bud  and  open  flower. 

Substance Very  good. 

Petallage Perfect. 

Size Quite  above  the  average. 

Blooming May  and  June  13;  July  7;  August  5;  September  7; 

October  and  late  6;  total  38. 

Hardiness Canes  living  8  inches  above  ground  level  in  the  spring. 

Foliage Practically  immune  from  mildew,  but  slightly  sus- 
ceptible to  spot. 

Growth Slightly  above  medium. 

Stem Fair  length,  but  liable  to  be  weak  after  the  spring 

bloom. 

Plant 20  inches. 

Prune 5  eyes. 

Note This  rose  marked  in  conjunction  with  the  plants  of 

Dr.  Huey,  who  considers  it  one  of  the  best  light- 
colored  roses.    Great  improvement  when  grown  in 
a  single-row  bed  and  is  so  marked. 
48 


BEST  VARIETIES  WITH  CHARACTERISTICS 

MDLLE.  SIMONE  BEAUMEZ;  Hybrid  Tea;  Pernet-Ducher,  1907. 
Salmon  white,  sometimes  tinged  with  Japan  yellow  in  center. 

Novelty In  color. 

Color Very  beautiful. 

Fragrance Mild. 

Lasting Color  good;  fragrance  brief;  form  fair. 

Shape Beautiful  in  bud;  quite  good  in  open  flower. 

Substance Slightly  above  the  average. 

Petallage Perfect. 

Size Above  medium. 

Blooming May  and  June  13;  July  18;  August  3;  September  12; 

October  and  late  3;  total  49. 

Hardiness Canes  living  8  inches  above  ground  level  in  the  spring. 

Foliage Somewhat  susceptible  to  mildew  and  spot. 

Growth Tall  and  strong,  but  lacking  in  bushiness. 

Stem Above  the  average. 

Plant 20  inches. 

Prune 5  eyes. 

Note Does  much  better  on  Multiflora  than  on  Briar.  A 

difficult  rose  to  classify,  as  it  could  be  included  in 
either  the  light  colored  or  yellow  section,  especially 
in  the  fall,  when  it  is  quite  orange  in  the  center. 


LA  TOSCA;  Hybrid  Tea;  Vve.  Schwartz,  1901.    Silvery  pink  with 
deeper  center. 

Novelty In  growth  and  hardiness  and  blooming. 

Color Good. 

Fragrance Mild. 

Lasting Color  good;  fragrance  brief;  form  fair. 

Shape Bud  fair;  open  flower  loose. 

Substance Only  fair. 

Petallage Varies  greatly. 

Size Medium. 

Blooming May  and  June  11;  July  16;  August  12;  September  5; 

October  and  late  13;  total  57. 

Hardiness Varies — canes  living  from  8  inches  to  2  feet  in  the 

spring. 

Foliage Only  slightly  susceptible  to  mildew  and  spot. 

Growth Exceptionally  strong  and  vigorous 

Stem Long  and  of  good  strength. 

Plant 26  inches. 

Prune 6  eyes,  unless  to  be  used  for  garden  decoration  or 

hedge,  when  dead  wood  only  should  be  cut.  In 
midseason  strong  growth  of  three  feet  and  over 
should  have  6  to  12  inches  removed,  as  this  will 
insure  more  fall  bloom  with  jthis  variety. 

Note Fine  rose  for  garden  decoration.    Does  particularly 

well  on  the  Pacific  Coast. 
49 


OUTDOOR  ROSE  GROWING 

PINK  SECTION 

This  class  comprises  the  largest  of  all  colors,  but 
many  are  so  similar  that  it  is  not  necessary  to  include 
any  but  the  best  and  most  distinct  which  have  stood 
out  here  and  also  with  other  growers  in  different 
sections  of  the  country.  In  this  connection  Lady 
Ashtown  is  omitted  because  this  rose  has  not  tested 
well  either  on  Multiflora  or  Briar.  Grossherzog 
Friedrich  is  a  lighter  salmon  pink  and  Frau  Mar- 
grethe  Moller  is  a  darker  salmon  pink,,  and  both  far 
exceed  Ashtown  in  blooming;  but  if  unable  to  secure 
these  newer  roses,  Ashtown  is  suggested. 

Madame  Maurice  de  Luze  and  La  France  are  most 
distinct  in  perfume.  For  beauty  of  cut  flowers  Lady 
Alice  Stanley,  Madame  Segond  Weber  and  Mrs. 
George  Shawyer  are  recommended;  but  this  whole 
class  is  an  all-round  one,  and  practically  all  the  roses 
in  it  are  useful  to  a  great  extent  for  cutting. 

RADIANCE;  Hybrid  Tea;  John  Cook,  1912.    Light  silver  flesh  to 
salmon  pink. 

Novelty In  fragrance,  growth  and  blooming  qualities. 

Color Not  of  the  clearest,  and  tends  to  blue  slightly. 

Fragrance Fair  to  strong. 

Lasting Color  quite  good;  fragrance  endures;  form  good. 

Shape Only  fair;  bud  not  long  and  pointed;  flower  does  not 

open  well. 

Substance Very  good. 

Petallage Perfect. 

Size Above  medium. 

Blooming May  and  June  15;  July  21;  August  2;  September  10; 

October  and  late  3;  total  51. 
Hardiness Canes  living  8  to  18  inches  above  ground  level  in  the 

spring. 

Foliage Slightly  susceptible  to  mildew  and  spot. 

50 


MADAME  SECOND  WEBER 


BEST  VARIETIES  WITH  CHARACTERISTICS 

Growth Very  strong. 

Stem Long,  although  not  always  strong. 

Plant 26  inches. 

Prune 6  eyes. 

Note While  not  the  best  rose  for  cut  flowers,  it  stands  out, 

on  account  of  its  all-round  worth  and  splendid 
constitution,  as  the  best  pink  rose  in  cultivation 
today.  Does  best  on  Multiflora. 

GROSSHERZOG  FRIEDRICH;  Hybrid  Tea;  Lambert,  1908.    Carmine 
rose  pink;  with  us,  light  pink. 

Novelty In  color,  blooming  qualities,  fragrance  and  lasting. 

Color Most  attractive. 

Fragrance Fair. 

Lasting Color  almost  perfect;  fragrance  endures  fairly  well; 

form  quite  good. 

Shape Bud  not  perfect,  but  open  flower  most  attractive. 

Substance .....  Only  fair. 

Petallage Perfect. 

Size Above  medium. 

Blooming May  and  June  8;  July  21;  August  3,  September  11; 

October  and  late  7;  total  50. 

Hardiness .  Canes  living  8  inches  above  ground  level  in  the  spring. 

Foliage Mildews  in  certain  seasons;  practically  immune  from 

spot. 

Growth Very  good. 

Stem Fair  only. 

Plant 24  inches. 

Prune 5  eyes. 

Note In  marking  for  the  season  of  1916  this  rose  scored 

more  points  in  the  first  summing  up  than  any 

other  rose  in  the  garden,  and  it  has  no  serious 

faults.   Without  disbudding,  gives  very  much  more 

bloom. 

MADAME  SECOND  WEBER;  Hybrid  Tea;  Soupert  &  Notting,  1908. 
Rosy  salmon. 

Novelty In  color,  shape  and  lasting. 

Color Most  attractive  and  beautiful. 

Fragrance Mild. 

Lasting Color  very  good;  fragrance  brief;  form  very  good. 

Shape Close  to  perfection. 

Substance Above  the  average. 

Petallage Perfect. 

Size Medium. 

Blooming May  and  June  11;  July  20;  August  9;  September  4; 

October  and  late  5;  total  49. 

Hardiness Canes  living  6  to  8  inches  above  ground  level  in  the 

spring. 

Foliage Somewhat  susceptible  to  mildew  and  spot. 

51 


OUTDOOR  ROSE  GROWING 

Growth Fair. 

Stem Quite  good. 

Plant 20  inches. 

Prune 5  eyes. 

Note Has  improved  greatly  on  Multiflora;  when  properly 

grown  on  this  stock  gives  nearly  twice  as  many 
blooms  as  well-established  plants  on  Briar. 

FRAU  MARGRETHB  MOLLEE;  Hybrid  Tea;  Poulson,  1912.    Dark  rose 
with  clearer  edges  of  petals. 

Novelty In  blooming  qualities. 

Color Not  of  the  best  as  it  blues  slightly. 

Fragrance Fair. 

Lasting Color  fair;  fragrance  brief;  form  good. 

Shape Well  above  the.  average. 

Substance Fair. 

Petallage Deficient  in  number. 

Size Medium. 

Blooming May  and  June  15;  July  15;  August  8;  September  18; 

October  and  late  1 ;  total  57. 

Hardiness Canes  living  8  inches  above  ground  level  in  the  spring. 

Foliage Slightly  susceptible  to  mildew  and  spot. 

Growth Fair. 

Stem Fair. 

Plant 20  inches. 

Prune 5  eyes. 

Note Needs  time  to  become  established. 

MADAME  LEON  PAIN;  Hybrid  Tea;  Guillot,  1904.     Light  silvery 
salmon,  center  orange  salmon. 

Novelty In  color. 

Color Most  attractive. 

Fragrance Quite  distinct. 

Lasting Color  good;  fragrance  fair;  form  good. 

Shape Good  in  bud  and  open  flower;  center  holds  well  when 

open. 

Substance Average. 

Petallage Perfect. 

Size Trifle  above  the  average. 

Blooming May  and  June  10;  July  14;  August  5;  September  7; 

October  and  late  5;  total  41. 

Hardiness Canes  living  8  inches  above  ground  level  in  the  spring. 

Foliage Attractive;  only  slightly  susceptible  to  mildew  and 

spot. 

Growth Above  the  average. 

Stem Quite  good. 

Plant 20  inches. 

Prune 5  eyes. 

Note A  fine  all-round  rose. 

52 


BEST  VARIETIES  WITH  CHARACTERISTICS 

LADY  ALICE  STANLEY;  Hybrid  Tea;  McGredy,  1909.    Deep  coral 
rose  on  outside  of  petals;  inside  pale  flesh. 

Novelty In  color  and  lasting. 

Color Clear  and  attractive. 

Fragrance Mild  to  fair. 

Lasting Color  good;  fragrance  brief;  form  very  good. 

Shape Bud  not  perfect,  but  open  flower  very  attractive. 

Substance Well  above  the  average. 

Petallage Perfect. 

Size One  of  the  largest. 

Blooming May  and  June  7;  July  13;  August  3;  September  9; 

October  and  late  1;  total  33. 

Hardiness Canes  living  8  inches  above  ground  level  to  the  tips 

in  spring. 

Foliage Very  little  affected  by  mildew,  but  susceptible  to  spot. 

Growth Fair. 

Stem Strong,  but  usually  not  of  great  length. 

Plant 20  inches. 

Prune. 5  eyes. 

Note Especially  good  for  cutting. 

MADAME  MAURICE  DE  LUZE;  Hybrid  Tea;  Pernet-Ducher,   1907. 
Deep  rose  pink,  carmine  center,  reverse  of  petals  paler  in  color. 

Novelty In  fragrance,  which  is  wonderful,  and  growth. 

Color Pleasing  but  tends  to  lilac. 

Fragrance Strong. 

Lasting Color  blues  quickly;  fragrance  endures;  form  good. 

Shape Fairly  good  in  bud  and  open  flower. 

Substance Above  the  average. 

Petallage Perfect. 

Size Above  the  average. 

Blooming May  and  June  11;  July  13;  August  3;  September  15; 

October  and  late  3;  total  45. 
Hardiness Canes  living  8  to  18  inches  above  ground  level  in  the 

spring. 

Foliage Susceptible  to  mildew,  and  a  slight  extent  to  spot. 

Growth Very  good. 

Stem Average. 

Plant 22  inches. 

Prune 6  eyes. 

Note Does  better  on  the  Multiflora  than  on  the  Briar. 

JONKHEER  J.  L.  MOCK;  Hybrid  Tea;  Leenders,  1910.     Carmine 
changing  to  Imperial  pink. 

Novelty In  color,  size,  stem  and  lasting. 

Color Distinct,  but  sometimes  muddy. 

Fragrance Fair  in  spring  and  fall:  mild  in  midseason. 

53 


OUTDOOR  ROSE  GROWING 

Lasting Color  blues  slightly;  fragrance  endures  except  in 

summer;  form  almost  perfect. 

Shape Good  in  bud  and  open  flower. 

Substance Fine. 

Petallage Slightly  below  the  best,  except  in  fall. 

Size Very  large. 

Blooming May  and  June  7;  July  10;  August  1;  September  10; 

October  and  late  3;  total  31. 

Hardiness Heavy  canes  living  12  inches  above  ground  in  spring 

— light  canes  vary. 

Foliage Susceptible  to  mildew  and  spot. 

Growth Exceedingly  tall,  but  lacking  in  bushiness. 

Stem Usually  of  great  length  and  strength. 

Plant 22  inches. 

Prune 6  eyes. 

Note Unpopular  with  some  growers,  but  so  distinct  it 

must  be  included  for  its  good  qualities.     Very 

much  better  on  Multiflora  than  on  Briar. 

MRS.  GEORGE  SHAWYER;  Hybrid  Tea;  Lowe  &  Shawyer,  1911. 
Brilliant  clear  rose. 

Novelty In  color,  lasting  and  stem. 

Color Very  good  and  attractive. 

Fragrance Mild. 

Lasting Color  very  good;  fragrance  brief;  form  very  good. 

Shape Good  in  bud  and  most  attractive  in  open  flower. 

Substance Very  good. 

Petallage Deficient  in  number. 

Size Above  the  average. 

Blooming May  and  June  3;  July  7;  August  7;  September  7; 

October  and  late  7;  total  31,  which  may  be  expected 

to  increase  after  the  second  year. 

Hardiness Canes  living  from  ground  level  to  6  inches  in  spring. 

Foliage Only  slightly  susceptible  to  mildew  and  spot. 

Growth Well  above  the  average. 

Stem Good  and  long;  of  fair  strength. 

Plant 22  inches. 

Prune 5  eyes. 

Note Only  tested  for  two  years,  but  has  shown  marked 

promise  and  has  every  evidence  of  becoming  a 

most  popular  rose. 

KILLARNEY;  Hybrid  Tea;  Alex.  Dickson  &  Sons,  1898.  With  us,  a 
soft  clear  light  pink  to  light  rose  pink. 

Novelty In  color. 

Color Brilliant  and  attractive. 

54 


MRS.  GEORGE  SHAWYER 


BEST  VARIETIES  WITH  CHARACTERISTICS 

Fragrance Quite  distinct. 

Lasting Color  fades  quickly;  fragrance  brief;  form  does  not 

hold. 

Shape Bud  almost  perfect;  open  flower  not  attractive. 

Substance Very  good. 

Petallage Deficient  in  number. 

Size Above  the  average. 

Blooming May  and  June  9;  July  14;  August  5;  September  7; 

October  and  late  6;  total  41. 

Hardiness Canes  Living  8  to  10  inches  above  ground  level  in  the 

spring. 

Foliage Most  susceptible  to  mildew;  also  affected  by  spot. 

Growth Above  the  average. 

Stem Usually  very  good. 

Plant .20  inches. 

Prune 5  eyes. 

Note Originally  included  in  the  first  sixteen.  A  good  all- 
round  rose,  but  having  several  bad  faults.  At  its 
best  in  the  spring;  fall  bloom  seldom  attractive 
here.  The  sports  of  Killarney  have  proved  most 
disappointing— Killarney  Brilliant,  Killarney 
Double  Pink  and  White  Killarney  being  poor 
bloomers.  Killarney  Queen  is  the  best  of  the 
sports,  giving  almost  as  many  blooms  of  greater 
substance  than  the  parent  plant. 

MADAME  CAROLINE  TESTOUT;  Hybrid  Tea;  Pernet-Ducher,  1890. 
Satin  rose  with  brighter  center. 

Novelty In  color  and  fragrance. 

Color Most  beautiful. 

Fragrance Very  distinct. 

Lasting Color  good;  fragrance  only  fair;  form  good. 

Shape Below  the  best  in  bud  and  open  flower. 

Substance Very  good. 

Petallage Perfect. 

Size Above  the  average. 

Blooming May  and  June  10;  July  19;  August  3;  September  5; 

October  and  late  5;  total  42. 
Hardiness Canes  living  6  to  12  inches  above  ground  level  in 

spring. 

Foliage Slightly  susceptible  to  mildew  and  spot. 

Growth Good  but  not  of  the  best. 

Stem Sometimes  tends  to  have  a  weak  neck. 

Plant 22  inches. 

Prune 4  eyes. 

Note A  well-known  rose  and  a  universal  favorite;  grown 

to   perfection  in  Portland,  Oregon,  where  it  is 

most  remarkable. 
55 


OUTDOOR  ROSE  GROWING 

LA  FRANCE;  Hybrid  Tea;  Guillot,  1867.    Bright  pink. 

Novelty In  blooming  qualities  and  fragrance. 

Color Quite  good. 

Fragrance Most  distinct  and  beautiful. 

Lasting Color  blues  slightly;  fragrance  endures;  form  good. 

Shape Bud  is  not  long  and  tends  to  ball,  but  open  flower  not 

flat. 

Substance Average. 

Petallage Perfect. 

Size Medium. 

Blooming May  and  June  18;  July  20;  August  7;  September  11; 

October  and  late  11 ;  total  67. 

Hardiness Canes  living  8  to  10  inches  above  ground  level  in  the 

spring. 

Foliage Susceptible  to  mildew  and  spot 

Growth Well  above  the  average. 

Stem Only  fair. 

Plant 22  inches. 

Prune 6  eyes. 

Note .This  rose  has  been  discarded  by  many,  and  if  not 

properly  grown  has  bad  faults  which  are  especially 
noticeable  in  wet  seasons.  If  planted  in  poor 
ground  in  a  bed  which  drains  readily  and  not 
fed,  it  is  well  worth  cultivating.  It  does  best  on 
Multiflora. 

RED  SECTION 

There  are  very  few  roses  to  choose  from  in  this 
section,  the  trouble  being  that  nearly  all  the  good 
ones  are  of  practically  the  same  shade,  and  it  is  impos- 
sible to  secure  twelve  reds  without  including  shy 
bloomers.  Beyond  question,  a  perfect  red  rose,  com- 
paring with  the  best  of  the  pinks  and  light-colored 
roses,  has  not  yet  been  discovered;  they  "blue"  or 
' '  purple"  more  quickly  than  any  other  color,  and  many 
varieties  have  the  same  faults.  .However,  Comte  G. 
de  Rochemur  has  stood  out  as  the  best  for  all- 
round  purposes;  it  gives  a  large  quantity  of  bloom, 

and  if  carefully  disbudded  is  well  worth  cutting. 

56 


COMTE  G.  DE  ROCHEMUR 


BEST  VARIETIES  WITH  CHARACTERISTICS 

Heretofore  this  place  has  been  held  by  General  Mac- 
Arthur,  but  Rochemur  exceeds  it  so  much  in  bloom- 
ing qualities,  and  in  form  and  size  in  hot  weather, 
that  it  is  the  preference.  For  cut  flower  varieties, 
Laurent  Carle,  Robin  Hood,  and  George  C.  Waud, 
are  the  best.  Robert  Huey  is  the  best  hot  weather 
red  rose  and  holds  its  form  under  these  conditions. 
Its  fault  has  been  that  it  does  not  give  enough 
bloom.  General  MacArthur,  Lieutenant  Chaure 
and  Cardinal  are  good  all-round  varieties.  Chateau 
de  Clos  Vougeot  is  included  for  its  distinct  color, 
although  it  is  in  reality  a  collector's  rose  on 
account  of  its  very  shy  blooming  qualities.  For 
decorative  varieties  Teplitz  is  supreme,  not  only 
among  the  red  roses,  but  for  any  color.  The  trouble 
with  Teplitz  is  that  the  stem  is  weak  and  the  form 
of  the  rose  is  not  good.  It  is  absolutely  the  best 
rose  for  hedge  purposes.  The  experiment  of  disbud- 
ding has  been  tried  to  increase  the  beauty  of  the 
bloom,  but  it  does  not  succeed  to  any  marked  degree. 
A  Teplitz,  three  years  old  or  over,  disbudded,  will 
give  close  to  a  hundred  blooms  during  the  season, 
and  not  disbudded  the  amount  will  be  at  least  double. 
Ecarlate  is  another  splendid  decorative  rose,  bloom- 
ing constantly  but  being  of  little  use  for  cut  flowers. 
Mrs.  Cant  is  the  best  of  the  red  Teas  and  does  well 

for  Mr.  H.  J.  Staples  in  Maine. 

57 


OUTDOOR  ROSE  GROWING 

COMTE  G.  DE  ROCHEMUR;  Hybrid  Tea;  Schwartz,  1912.  Fiery 
scarlet,  tinted  satiny  vermilion,  with  bright  red  center  and  rosy 
white-edged  petals. 

Novelty In  blooming. 

Color Very  much  the  same  as  MacArthur,  perhaps  a  trifle 

darker. 

Fragrance Above  the  average. 

Lasting Color  blues;  fragrance  quite  good;  form  fan-. 

Shape Not  perfect,  but  fair  in  bud  and  holds  center  well. 

Substance Good. 

Petallage Perfect. 

Size Above  the  average. 

Blooming May  and  June  15;  July  22;  August  5;  September  22; 

October  and  late  3;  total  67. 

Hardiness Canes  living  8  inches  above  ground  level  in  the  spring. 

Foliage Slightly  susceptible  to  mildew  and  spot. 

Growth Only  average. 

Stem Average. 

Plant 22  inches. 

Prune 5  eyes. 

Note This  rose  holds  its  form  better  in  hot  weather  than 

most  reds  of  the  same  color,  and  the  blooming 
qualities  are  especially  good  for  a  red  rose  with 
any  pretension  to  form.  This  variety  may  be 
hard  to  secure  in  quantity  for  some  time. 

ROBERT  HUEY;  Hybrid  Tea;  Alex.  Dickson  &  Sons,  1911.  Warm 
carmine  cerise,  with  wire  edge  of  delicate  pink. 

Novelty In  hardiness,  unique  color  and  lasting. 

Color Good,  but  tends  to  blue  slightly. 

Fragrance Mild. 

Lasting Color  quite  good;  fragrance  brief;  form  quite  good. 

Shape Not  perfect,  but  pleasing  in  bud  and  open  flower. 

Substance Very  good. 

Petallage Perfect  in  spring;  somewhat  deficient  in  summer. 

Size Very  large. 

Blooming May  and  June  9;  July  12;  August  3;  September  3; 

October  and  late  3;  total  30. 

Hardiness Almost  perfect;  canes  living  from  8  inches  to  3  feet 

above  ground  level  in  spring. 

Foliage Liable  to  be  lost  from  spot;  slightly  susceptible  to 

mildew. 

Growth Tall  but  lacking  in  bushiness. 

Stem Long,  but  not  especially  strong. 

Plant 20  inches. 

Prune 7  eyes. 

Note A  distinct  red  and  especially  noted  for  its  beauty  of 

bloom  in  hot  weather,  and  on  account  of  its  hardi- 
ness can  be  recommended  as  a  hedge  rose.    Unfor- 
tunately, the  stock  of  this  variety  is  extremely 
scarce  at  the  present  time. 
58 


LAURENT  CARLE 


BEST  VARIETIES  WITH  CHARACTERISTICS 

LAURENT  CARLE;  Hybrid  Tea;  Pernet-Ducher,  1907.  Brilliant 
carmine. 

Novelty In  color,  fragrance,  shape  and  lasting. 

Color Beautiful  and  clear. 

Fragrance Fair  to  strong. 

Lasting Color  good;  fragrance  endures;  form  good. 

Shape Almost  perfect,  especially  attractive  for  a  red  rose. 

Substance Above  the  average. 

Petallage Perfect. 

Size Usually  quite  large,  but  varies  slightly. 

Blooming May  and  June    8;  July  11;  August  2;  September 

3;  October  and  late  7;  total  31. 
Hardiness Canes  living  6  to  8  inches  above  ground  level  in  the 

spring. 

Foliage Susceptible  to  mildew  and  spot. 

Growth Fair. 

Stem Slightly  above  the  average. 

Plant 20  inches. 

Prune 5  eyes. 

Note Does  better  on  Multiflora,  and  exceptionally  well  in 

the  special  bed. 

ROBIN  HOOD;  Hybrid  Tea;  E.  G.  Hill  Company,  1912.  Soft  bright 
rosy  scarlet,  changing  to  bright  scarlet  crimson  as  season 
advances. 

Novelty In  foliage,  stem  and  lasting  qualities. 

Color Good  and  clear,  but  some  little  blue. 

Fragrance Above  the  average. 

Lasting Color  quite  good;  fragrance  endures  quite  well;  form 

good.  u- 

Shape Not  perfect,  but  attractive. 

Substance Above  the  average, 

Petallage Practically  perfect. 

Size Average. 

Blooming During  second  year — May  and  June  14;  July  12; 

August  7;  September  6;  October  and  late  3; 
total  42. 

Hardiness Canes  living  8  inches  above  ground  level  in  spring. 

Foliage Especially  good,  almost  immune  from  spot  and  mil- 
dew. 

Growth Very  good. 

Stem Long  and  fairly  strong. 

Plant 22  inches. 

Prune 5  eyes. 

Note Easy  to  establish;  not  yet  tested  on  Multiflora. 

GEORGE  C.  WAUD;  Hybrid  Tea;  Alex.  Dickson  &  Sons,  1908.  Orange 
vermilion. 

Novelty In  color  and  fragrance. 

Color Clear  and  attractive. 

59 


OUTDOOR  ROSE  GROWING 

Fragrance Quite  marked. 

Lasting Color  good,  little  liable  to  blue;  fragrance  endures; 

form  good. 

Shape Good  in  bud;  pleasing  in  open  flower. 

Substance Above  the  average. 

Petallage Varies;  too  many  in  spring,  too  few  in  summer. 

Size Medium. 

Blooming May  and  June  6;  July  10;  August  2;  September  7; 

October  and  late  1;  total  26. 
Hardiness Canes  living  8  to  18  inches  above  ground  level  in 

spring. 

Foliage Susceptible  to  mildew  and  spot 

Growth Average. 

Stem Good. 

Plant 20  inches. 

Prune 5  eyes. 

Note Does  best  on  Multiflora. 


GENERAL  MACARTHUR;  Hybrid  Tea;  E.  G.  Hill  Company,  1905. 
Bright  crimson. 

Novelty In  fragrance. 

Color Very  good. 

Fragrance Strong. 

Lasting Color  tends  to  blue;  fragrance  endures;  form  fair. 

Shape Buds  attractive;  flower  sometimes  opens  flat. 

Substance Fair. 

Petallage Perfect. 

Size Medium;  small  in  hot  weather. 

Blooming May  and  June  10;  July  12;  August 5; Septembers; 

October  and  late  3;  total  35. 

Hardiness Canes  living  6  to  10  inches  above  ground  level  in 

spring. 

Foliage Almost  immune  from  mildew;  slightly  susceptible  to 

spot. 

Growth Above  the  average. 

Stem Fair. 

Plant 20  inches. 

Prune 6  eyes. 

Note Until  the  advent  of  Rochemur,  was  considered  the 

best  all-round  red  rose.  There  are  several  roses 
very  much  on  the  color  of  MacArthur,  perhaps 
the  best  being  C.  W.  Cowan,  Eugene  Boullet  and 
Freifrau  Ida  von  Schubert.  Does  a  little  better  on 
Multiflora. 

60 


BEST  VARIETIES  WITH  CHARACTERISTICS 

CARDINAL;  Hybrid  Tea;  John  Cook,  1904.    Cardinal  red. 

Novelty In  perfume  and  blooming  qualities. 

Color Fair. 

Fragrance Very  good. 

Lasting Color  blues;  fragrance  endures;  form  fair. 

Shape Fair  in  bud;  not  perfect  in  open  flower.  . 

Substance Above  the  average. 

PetaUage Perfect. 

Size Medium. 

Blooming May  and  June  13;  July  13;  August  4;  September  14; 

October  and  late  4;  total  48. 
Hardiness Canes  living  6  to  8  inches  above  ground  level  in 

spring. 

Foliage Susceptible  to  mildew  and  spot. 

Growth Bushy,  but  not  tall. 

Stem. Average. 

Plant 20  inches. 

Prune 5  eyes. 

Note Does  better  on  Multiflora.    Perfume  and  blooming 

insure  it  a  place  among  roses  superior  in  other 

qualities. 

LIEUTENANT  CHAUEE;  Hybrid  Tea;  Pernet-Ducher,  1910.    Velvety 
crimson  red. 

Novelty In  color  and  perfume. 

Color Distinct  and  clear. 

Fragrance Fair  to  strong. 

Lasting Color  good;  fragrance  endures;  form  fair. 

Shape Fair  in  bud  and  open  flower. 

Substance Good. 

Petallage Deficient  in  number. 

Size Medium. 

Blooming May  and  June  5;  July  7;  August  3;  September  6; 

October  and  late  2;  total  23. 

Hardiness Reported  good. 

Foliage Some  mildew,  but  little  susceptible  to  spot. 

Growth Fair. 

Stem Fair. 

Plant 20  inches. 

Prune 5  eyes. 

Note Doing  well   for   Admiral   Ward   on   Long   Island. 

Tested  here  for  only  one  season,  so  the  average 
of  blooms  should  be  higher  after  the  first  year. 
61 


OUTDOOR  ROSE  GROWING 

CHATEAU  DE  CLOS  VOUGEOT;  Hybrid  Tea;  Pernet-Ducher,  1908. 
Velvety  scarlet  to  dark  velvety  crimson. 

Novelty In  color  and  fragrance. 

Color Absolutely  distinct  and  beautiful. 

Fragrance Strong  in  the  spring  and  fall;  fair  in  summer. 

Lasting Color  good;  fragrance  endures;  form  good. 

Shape Fair  in  bud;  keeps  high  pointed  center  when  open. 

Substance Almost  perfect. 

Petallage Varies;  perfect  in  the  fall,  too  many  in  spring  and 

summer. 

Size Slightly  above  the  average. 

Blooming May  and  June  7;  July  7;  August  1;  September  6; 

October  and  late  1;  total  22. 
Hardiness Canes  li ving  6  to  8  inches  above  ground  level  in 

spring. 
Foliage Susceptible  to  spot — lost  early;  slightly  liable  to 

mildew. 

Growth Above  the  average. 

Stem Usually  long  and  strong,  but  if  cut  there  is  very 

little  left  of  the  plant. 

Plant 20  inches. 

Prune 5  eyes. 

Note Included  on  account  of  its  unique  color.    Does  best 

on  Multiflora. 

MRS.  B.  R.  CANT;  Tea;  Cant  &  Sons,  1901.    Deep  rose  on  outer 
petals,  inner  petals  soft  silvery  rose,  suffused  with  buff  at  base. 

Novelty In  color,  blooming  and  f oliage. 

Color While  unique,  is  not  of  the  very  best. 

Fragrance Mild. 

Lasting Color  good;  fragrance  brief:  form  good. 

Shape Short  in  bud;  only  fair  in  trie  open  flower. 

Substance Fair. 

Petallage Too  many,  and  not  of  best  shape. 

Size Medium  to  small. 

Blooming May  and  June  13;  July  14;  August  2;  September  10; 

October  and  late  11;  total  50. 

Hardiness Canes  living  8  inches  above  ground  level  in  spring. 

Growth Good. 

Foliage Distinct  and  beautiful;  impervious  to  disease  and 

holds  well. 

Stem Good. 

Plant 22  inches. 

Prune 5  eyes. 

Note While  the  form  is  only  fair,  it  lasts  well,  and  with 

its  usually  long  stem,  is  fair  for  cutting.     Does 

best  on  Multiflora. 

GROSS  AN  TEPLITZ;  Hybrid  Tea;  Geschwind,  1897.     Bright  scarlet 
crimson. 

Novelty In  blooming,  growth,  hardiness,  color  and  fragrance. 

62 


BEST  VARIETIES  WITH  CHARACTERISTICS 

Color Beautiful  and  distinct. 

Fragrance Fair  to  strong. 

Lasting Color  fairly  good;  fragrance  endures;  form  does  not 

hold. 

Shape Bud  short;  flower  opens  flat 

Substance Above  the  average. 

Petallage Fair,  but  of  poor  shape. 

Size Medium  to  small. 

Blooming May  and  June  37;  July  26;  August  14;  September  15; 

October  and  late  15;  total  107. 

Hardiness Almost  unique  as  only  the  tips  winter  kill. 

Foliage Immune  from  mildew;  slightly  susceptible  to  spot. 

Growth Perfect. 

Stem Weak  and  usually  short. 

Plant 26  inches. 

Prune 8  eyes. 

Note Teplitz  is  the  best  tall  decorative  rose  grown,  and  if 

not  cut  back  may  be  used  as  a  hedge;  or  if  grown 
on  Multiflora  does  very  well  as  a  low  ever-blooming 
climber.  Scores  five  times  under  novelty. 

ECARLATE;  Hybrid  Tea;  Boytard,  1907.    Brilliant  scarlet. 

Novelty In  blooming  and  growth. 

Color Quite  good. 

Fragrance None. 

Lasting Color  blues;  form  does  not  hold. 

Shape Fair  in  bud;  very  flat  as  rose  opens. 

Substance Barely  average. 

Petallage Deficient  in  number. 

Size Fair  in  spring  and  fall;  small  in  summer. 

Blooming  : 

May  and  Septem-      October 

June  July  August         ber  and  late     Total 

18  36  14  22  18  108 

12  34  19  15  13  93 

14  25  7  9  4  59 

Hardiness Canes  living  8  to  18  inches  above  ground  level  in 

spring. 

Foliage Almost  perfect;  immune  from  mildew;  only  slightly 

susceptible  to  spot. 

Growth Strong  and  bushy,  but  not  exceptionally  tall. 

Stem Fair  for  a  rose  of  this  character. 

Plant 24  inches. 

Prune 5  eyes. 

Note This  is  distinctly  a  decorative  rose.    Without  dis- 
budding, it  will  give  many  more  blooms. 
63 


OUTDOOR  ROSE  GROWING 

YELLOW  SECTION 

This  section  is  a  very  difficult  one  to  handle  be- 
cause there  are  few  roses  of  this  color  which  fill  the 
requirements  as  well  as  the  pinks  and  lighter  roses. 
Among  the  yellows  the  rose  is  of  good  form,  but 
small  growth  and  shy  blooming  qualities,  or  loses 
by  poor  form  and  more  profuse  blooming.  For 
strictly  cut  flower  varieties  it  is  necessary  to  go  into 
collector's  roses  to  secure  blooms  of  beautiful  colors 
which  hold  their  form  perfectly,  especially  in  hot 
weather.  The  yellow  roses  selected  are  those  which 
have  proved  the  best  for  all-round  worth,  with  fair 
lasting  qualities. 

On  account  of  their  great  substance,  Duchess  of 
Wellington  and  Harry  Kirk,  in  spring  and  fall,  will 
last  well  in  the  house  if  cut  in  bud  form.  Daily  Mail 
will  hold  its  form  fairly  well,  but  the  color  does  not 
last.  Natalie  Bottner  will  do  very  well.  Mrs.  Ward, 
while  small,  holds  the  form,  as  does  Senateur  Mas- 
curaud.  Elli  Hartmann,  with  its  fine  petallage  and 
substance,  is  also  a  good  cut  flower.  Madame  Mel- 
anie  Soupert  is  especially  noted  for  its  great  sub- 
stance, and  therefore  endures  when  cut,  although 
lacking  in  petallage.  Lady  Pirrie  takes  the  place  of 
Betty  in  the  list,  being  much  on  the  same  color,  but 
having  an  infinitely  superior  neck  and  lasting  some- 
what longer.  Lady  Plymouth  has  proved  the  best 

64 


BEST  VARIETIES  WITH  CHARACTERISTICS 

of  the  light  yellow  type  found  among  the  Teas,  of 
which  Maman  Cochet,  Mrs.  Dudley  Cross  and  Alex- 
ander Hill  Gray  were  the  forerunners.  For  decora- 
tive purposes  Mrs.  A.  R.  Waddell  and  Chrissie  Mac- 
Kellar  stand  out  as  the  best  of  the  bronze  and  lighter 
yellows. 

DUCHESS  OP  WELLINGTON;  Hybrid  Tea:  Alex.  Dickson  &  Sons,  1909. 
Intense  saffron  yellow  stained  with  rich  crimson  which,  as  the 
flower  develops,  becomes  deep  copper  saffron  yellow.  Here 
somewhat  lighter. 

Novelty In  color,  blooming,  substance  and  size. 

Color Beautiful;  varies,  lighter  in  summer;  rose  shadings  in 

fall. 

Fragrance Slight  spicy  perfume. 

Lasting Color  good;  fragrance  brief;  form  quite  good. 

Shape Practically  perfect  in  bud;  not  good  in  open  flower. 

Substance Very  good. 

Petallage Deficient  in  number. 

Size One  of  the  largest. 

Blooming May  and  June  8;  July  14;  August  9;  September  9; 

October  and  late  7;  total  47. 
Hardiness Canes  living  6  to  8  inches  above  ground  level  in 

spring. 
Foliage Very   good;   almost   immune   from   mildew;   only 

slightly  susceptible  to  spot. 

Growth Next  to  the  largest. 

Stem Long  and  strong,  only  occasionally  having  a  weak 

neck. 

Plant 24  inches. 

Prune 5  eyes. 

Note More  nearly  fills  the  requirements  than  any  other 

yellow  in  cultivation,  having  a  wonderful  record 

for  many  years. 

HARRY  KIRK;  Tea;  Alex.  Dickson  &  Sons,  1907.  Bright  primrose  to 
amber  yellow.  With  us,  light  sulphur  yellow. 

Novelty In  growth,  foliage  and  extreme  hardiness. 

Color Beautiful  and  clear. 

Fragrance Slight;  to  some  persons  not  pleasing. 

Lasting Color  fades  except  in  cool  weather;  fragrance  quickly 

becomes  rank;  form  does  not  last. 

Shape Almost  perfect  in  bud;  not  good  in  open  flower. 

65 


OUTDOOR  ROSE  GROWING 

Substance Very  good. 

Petallage Deficient  in  number. 

Size Fairly  large. 

Blooming May  and  June  7;  July  15;  August  1;  September  8; 

October  and  late  1;  total  32. 
Hardiness Splendid;  living  to  tips  on  strong  wood,  8  inches  on 

weak  wood,  in  the  spring. 

Foliage Very  good;  little  affected  by  mildew  and  spot. 

Growth Fine. 

Stem Fair. 

Plant 20  inches. 

Prune 6  eyes. 

Note A   good   all-round  rose,  chiefly  on  account  of  its 

great  reliability  as  a  bloomer  and  its  hardiness; 

adaptable  as  a  low  hedge. 

MADAME  EDOUARD  HERRIOT  or  DAILY  MAIL;  Pernetiana;  Pernet- 
Ducher,  1913.  Bud  coral  red  shaded  with  yellow  on  base. 
Open  flower  rosy  coral  red;  lighter  shadings  are  in  salmon. 

Novelty In  color,  foliage  and  hardiness. 

Color Unique,  attractive  and  startling. 

Fragrance Mild. 

Lasting Color  fades;  fragrance  brief;  form  does  not  hold  well. 

Shape Attractive  in  bud,  holding  high  center  until  half  open. 

Substance Above  the  average. 

Petallage Deficient  hi  number. 

Size Above  the  average. 

Blooming Two-year-old  plants  cut  low;  May  and  June  7; 

July  17;  August  1;  September  4;  October  and  late 
3;  total  32. 

Hardiness Perfect;  living  to  tips  on  strong  wood;  6  inches  on 

weak  wood  in  spring. 

Foliage Beautiful  in  spring  and  early  summer;  lost  later. 

Growth Average. 

Stem Average. 

Plant 20  inches. 

Prune 6  eyes. 

Note Best  of  all  the  Pernetianas  tested.  By  pruning 

experiments,  it  has  been  found  best  to  cut  fairly 
low  as  this  gives  better  stems  and  helps  hold  the 
foliage;  a  few  more  blooms  will  be  secured  by  high 
pruning,  but  this  is  not  advocated  unless  for 
garden  decoration  or  low  hedge  purposes.  Does 
best  on  Multiflora. 

NATALIE  BOTTNER;  Hybrid  Tea;  Bottner,  1910.  Soft  flesh  to  creamy 
yellow. 

Novelty In  color  and  shape. 

Color Beautiful,  clear  and  distract. 

66 


BEST  VARIETIES  WITH  CHARACTERISTICS 

Fragrance Fair. 

Lasting Color  very  good;  fragrance  brief;  form  good. 

Shape Good  in  bud  and  open  flower. 

Substance Well  above  the  average. 

Petallage Perfect. 

Size Medium  to  large. 

Blooming May  and  June  5;  July  16;  August  4;  September  11; 

October  and  late  4;  total  40. 
Hardiness Canes  living  6  to  12  inches  above  ground  level  in 

spring. 
Foliage Very  good,  being  only  slightly  susceptible  to  mildew 

and  spot. 

Growth Well  above  the  average. 

Stem Quite  good. 

Plant 22  inches. 

Prune 6  eyes. 

Note The  only  fault  is  an  occasional  tendency  to  ball  in 

wet  seasons. 

MRS.  AARON  WARD;  Hybrid  Tea;  Pernet-Ducher,   1907.  Indian 
yellow,  occasionally  washed  with  salmon  rose. 

Novelty In  color,  shape  and  foliage. 

Color Distinct. 

Fragrance Mild. 

Lasting Color  fades  quickly;  fragrance  brief;  form  good. 

Shape Beautiful  in  bud  and  open  flower. 

Substance Well  above  the  average. 

Petallage A  trifle  above  the  perfect  number. 

Size Small;  varies  considerably. 

Blooming May  and  June  10;  July  13;  August  2;  September  5; 

October  and  late  8;  total  38. 
Hardiness Canes  living  6  to  10  inches  above  ground  level  in 

spring. 
Foliage Attractive  color  and  leathery;  little  affected  by 

disease. 

Growth Quite  bushy,  but  not  tall. 

Stem Quite  good. 

Plant 20  inches. 

Prune 5  eyes. 

Note A  popular  rose  with  only  two  noticeable  faults — 

lack  of  size  and  the  fading  of  the  color. 

SENATETJR  MASCTTRAUD;  Hybrid  Tea;  Pernet-Ducher,  1909.    Cream 
yellow  with  light  yolk  of  egg  center. 

Novelty In  color  and  shape. 

Color Beautiful  and  clear. 

Fragrance Mild. 

Lasting Color  good;  fragrance  brief;  form  good. 

Shape Good  in  bud  and  open  flower. 

67 


OUTDOOR  ROSE  GROWING 

Substance Average. 

Petallage Perfect. 

Size Medium. 

Blooming .May  and  June  5;  July  12;  August  5;  September  12; 

October  and  late  3;  total  37. 

Hardiness Canes  living  8  inches  above  ground  level  in  spring. 

Foliage Very  good;  little  affected  by  mildew  and  spot. 

Growth Barely  average. 

Stem Good. 

Plant 20  inches. 

Prune 5  eyes. 

Note A  very  attractive  little  rose;  while  not  of  the  very 

best,  it  is  well  balanced.  Given  the  preference  over 
Souvenir  de  Gustave  Prat  on  account  of  its  better 
stems.  Does  best  on  Multiflora. ; 

ELLI  HARTMANN;  Hybrid  Tea;  Welter,  1913.    Old  golden  yellow. 

Novelty In  color,  growth,  foliage  and  lasting. 

Color Clear  and  attractive. 

Fragrance Mild. 

Lasting Color  good;  fragrance  brief;  form  endures. 

Shape Not  of  the  best,  but  attractive  in  bud  and  open 

flower. 

Substance Above  the  average. 

Petallage Too  many  petals,  some  being  too  narrow  in  shape. 

Size Medium;  sometimes  quite  large. 

Blooming May  and  June  7;  July  7;  August  4;  September  3; 

October  and  late  11;  total  32. 

Hardiness Canes  living  8  inches  above  ground  level  in  spring. 

Foliage Very  good;  little  affected  by  disease. 

Growth Very  good;  tall  and  fairly  bushy. 

Stem Quite  strong,  although  sometimes  short. 

Plant 22  inches. 

Prune 5  eyes. 

Note This  rose  may  be  hard  to  secure  in  quantity  for 

some  time.  While  not  as  profuse  a  bloomer  as 
Wellington,  it  excels  the  latter  in  the  lasting 
quality  of  the  bloom  and  the  beauty  of  the  open 
flower. 

MADAME  MELANIE  SOUPERT;  Hybrid  Tea;  Pernet-Ducher,  1906. 
Light  cream  to  salmon  yellow,  with  light  carmine  shades. 

Novelty In  color,  substance,  size  and  stem. 

Color Very  beautiful. 

Fragrance Mild. 

Lasting Color  good;  fragrance  brief;  form  fairly  good. 

Shape Although  net  standard  spiral,  is  beautiful  in  bud; 

not  so  attractive  when  fully  open. 
Substance Remarkable. 


ELLI  HARTMANN 


BEST  VARIETIES  WITH  CHARACTERISTICS 

Petallage Deficient  in  number. 

Size Very  large. 

Blooming May  and  June  6;  July  9;  August  3;  September  3; 

October  and  late  4;  total  25. 
Hardiness Occasionally  winter  kills.     Canes  living  6  to   12 

inches  above  ground  level  in  spring. 
Foliage. Beautiful  in  color  and  substance;  little  affected  by 


Growth Tall,  not  bushy  or  uniform. 

Stem Usually  very  long  and  strong,  especially  in  the 

spring. 

Plant 20  inches. 

Prune 5  eyes. 

Note One  of  the  most  beautiful  roses  in  cultivation,  but 

until  grown  on  Multiflora  was  strictly  a  collector's 
rose.  Better  on  Multiflora  than  in  a  special  bed; 
the  ideal  method  would  seem  to  be  Multiflora 
stock  grown  in  a  special  bed.  This  rose  surpasses 
Marquise  de  Sinety  and  Madame  Charles  Lutaud 
in  substance,  stem,  growth  and  hardiness. 

LADY  PIRRIE;  Hybrid  Tea;  Hugh  Dickson,  1910.  Deep  coppery 
reddish  salmon;  inside  of  petals  apricot  yellow — varies.  Lighter 
with  us.  -vj*. 

Novelty In  color,  grpwth'and  blooming. 

Color Very  beautiful;  varies  greatly  with  the  season. 

Fragrance Mild. 

Lasting Color  fades;  fragrance  brief;  form  does  not  hold. 

Shape Attractive  in  bud;  open  flower  flat. 

Substance Very  good. 

Petallage Deficient  in  number.  ^ 

Size Above  the  average. 

Blooming May  and  June  10;  July  21;  August  6;  September  10; 

October  and  late  9;  total  56. 
Hardiness Canes  living  8  to  18  inches  above  ground  level  in 

spring.        I 

Foliage Susceptible  to  mildew;  little  affected  by  spot. 

Growth Very  strong  and  bushy. 

Stem Well  above  the  average. 

Plant 24  inches. 

Prune 6  eyes. 

Note A  fair  decorative  rose  and  good  for  cut  blooms  in 

cool  weather. 

LADY  PLYMOUTH;  Tea;  Alex.  Dickson  &  Sons,  1914.  Deep  ivory 
cream,  very  faintly  flushed. 

Novelty In  color,  lasting  and  foliage* 

Color Excellent. 

Fragrance Mild. 


OUTDOOR  ROSE  GROWING 

Lasting Color  good;  fragrance  brief;  form  very  good. 

Shape Good  in  bud  and  open  flower. 

Substance Good. 

Petallage Perfect. 

Size Above  the  average. 

Blooming Two-year-old  plants,  May  and  June  6;  July  8;  August 

3;  September  10;  October  and  late  1;  total  28. 

Hardiness Canes  living  8  inches  above  ground  level  in  spring. 

Foliage Especially  fine. 

Growth Bushy  and  with  many  canes,  but  not  exceptionally 

tall. 

Stem Quite  good. 

Plant 22  niches. 

Prune 5  eyes. 

Note An  improvement  in  the  well-known  type  of  yellow 

Teas. 

MRS.  A.  R.  WADDELL;  Hybrid  Tea;  Pernet-Ducher,  1908.  Rosy 
scarlet  bud,  opening  reddish  salmon;  reverse  of  petals  rosy 
scarlet. 

Novelty In  color,  growth  and  blooming. 

Color Very  attractive  and_distinct. 

Fragrance Mild. 

Lasting Color  fades;  fragrance  brief;  form  does  not  last. 

Shape Very  good  in  bud;  open  flower  loose. 

Substance Fair. 

Petallage Deficient  in  number. 

Size Trifle  above  the  average. 

Blooming May  and  June  9;  July  22;  August  5;  September  16; 

October  and  late  5;  total  57. 
Hardiness Canes  living  6  to  8  inches  above  ground  level  in 

spring. 

Foliage Only  slightly  susceptible  to  mildew  and  spot. 

Growth Well  above  the  average. 

Stem Fairly  long,  but  liable  to  be  weak,  and  wilts  quickly. 

Plant 2  feet  on  Briar  or  Multiflora. 

Prune 5  eyes. 

Note Very  good  as  a  decorative  rose  on  account  of  its 

blooming  qualities.    Does  best  on  Multiflora. 

CHRISSIB  MACKELLAB;  Hybrid  Tea;  Alex.  Dickson  &  Sons,  1913. 
Intense  crimson  carmine  crayonings  on  rich,  deep,  ochrey 
madder,  becoming  bright  orangey-pink  as  the  bloom  develops. 

Novelty In  blooming,  foliage,  color  and  growth. 

Color Attractive. 

Fragrance Mild. 

Lasting Color  good;  fragrance  brief;  form  does  not  last. 

Shape Attractive  in  bud;  open  flower  flat. 

Substance Average. 

70 


BEST  VARIETIES  WITH  CHARACTERISTICS 

Petallage Deficient  in  number. 

Size 'fjzuf  Medium  to  small. 

Blooming .  .-TT.1  Two-year-old  plants,  May  and  June  11;  July  20; 

August  8;  September  11;  October  and  late  15; 

total  65. 

Hardiness Canes  living  6  inches  above  ground  level  in  spring. 

Foliage Almost  perfect;  good  color  and  substance;  practically 

immune  from  disease. 

Growth Splendid;  high,  strong  and  bushy,  with  many  canes. 

Stem Fairly  good. 

Plant 24  inches. 

Prune 6  eyes. 

Note Well  adapted  for  decorative  purposes  and  easily 

established. 


A  MAIN  LIST  OF  ROSES 

In  the  main  list  the  numerals  2  and  3  appear  in 
column  marked  "List." 

The  roses  listed  No.  2  are  those  which  have  stood 
the  tests  very  well;  they  have  surpassed  the  great 
main  body  of  varieties  which  have  been  discarded 
as  not  coming  up  to  the  requisite  standard.  No.  2 
is  a  list  of  honor  and  is  for  good,  all-round  roses, 
with  the  faults  plainly  noted  under  the  various  head- 
ings. Before  putting  these  roses  in  this  No.  2  list 
hundreds  of  roses  have  been  carefully  tested,  and 
these  are  the  ones  which  have  been  found  most 
suitable  for  our  climate  and  conditions  as  all-round 
varieties. 

For  a  person  wishing  a  greater  variety  of  all-round 
roses  than  is  included  in  the  first  forty-eight,  No.  2 
is  recommended. 

The  roses  listed  No.  3  are  special  roses  and  should 

71 


OUTDOOR  ROSE  GROWING 

be  mainly  ordered  either  for  large  gardens  or  collec- 
tions, or  by  persons  thoroughly  understanding  their 
failings,  all  of  which  are  noted  under  the  various 
headings. 

It  would  be  easy  to  make  list  No.  3  very  much 
larger,  but  it  is  cut  down  on  the  theory  that  every 
rose  contained  therein  should  be  the  very  best  of  its 
land,  or  have  some  special  merit.  For  this  reason 
there  may  be  some  roses  which  it  will  be  thought 
should  have  been  included,  but  for  average  condi- 
tions, and  particularly  for  the  amateur  rose  grower 
who  does  not  wish  a  very  large  number  of  roses,  this 
list  will  be  found  more  than  sufficient,  and  this  book 
is  written  for  such  persons. 

In  list  No.  3  are  included  some  weak-growing  roses 
with  beautiful  blooms;  they  are  not  perfectly  hardy 
and,  in  addition,  are  weak  growers,  but  are  so  dis- 
tinct in  their  beauty  that  they  should  be  included  hi 
any  large  collection,  particularly  by  a  person  under- 
standing their  failings.  In  list  No.  3  some  single 
roses  are  placed  which,  while  good  bloomers  and  of 
robust  habit,  are  so  much  below  the  average  hi  the 
form  of  their  blooms  that  they  should  not  be  included 
hi  any  list  but  No.  3. 

It  has  been  aimed  to  cover,  under  the  columns  of 
the  main  list,  the  principal  points  of  each  rose. 
Under  the  greater  number  of  headings  the  letters 

72 


BEST  VARIETIES  WITH  CHARACTERISTICS 

"A"— very  good,  "B"— good,  "C"— fair,  "D"— 
poor,  "V" — varies,  are  used  to  describe  each 
variety. 

Under  the  heading  "Form  of  Rose"  the  abbrevia- 
tion "Si"  indicates  that  the  rose  is  single. 

Under  the  heading  "Size  of  Bloom,"  "L"— large, 
"M"— medium,  "S"— small. 

It  will  readily  be  understood  that  under  "Growth," 
for  example,  all  the  roses  marked  "A"  are  not  abso- 
lutely the  same  in  growth,  but  for  all  practical  pur- 
poses they  form  an  approximate  class  under  "A," 
all  of  which  come  up  to  a  certain  standard.  This 
principle  applies  to  all  headings.  Growth  is  marked, 
not  only  for  the  height  and  strength,  but  also  for  the 
number  of  canes  and  uniformity. 

Under  "Hardiness"  the  system  is  changed  to  give 
the  number  of  niches  of  good  wood  left  in  the  spring. 
Where  a  rose  kills  down  to  the  ground  level  the  letter 
"G"  is  inserted  in  the  column,  and  where  a  certain 
percentage  whiter  kill,  the  letters  "W  K"  have  been 
added.  Last  year,  with  a  new  shipment  of  a  thousand 
roses,  chiefly  new  varieties,  about  twenty  plants,  or 
two  per  cent.,  have  been  lost,  and  some  of  the  new 
plants  were  very  small  and  weak.  This  immunity 
from  deaths  is  due  to  the  fact  that  the  roses  are 
"hilled  up"  every  autumn,  as  described  hi  the  chapter 
on  "Cultivation." 

73 


OUTDOOR  ROSE  GROWING 

On  account  of  the  number  of  new  roses  constantly 
being  planted  in  the  testing  beds  from  all  parts  of 
this  country  and  Europe,  it  is  impossible  to  entirely 
eliminate  disease,  but  in  a  way  this  has  its  valuable 
side,  because  the  roses  tested  are  brought  hi  contact 
with  disease  and  the  varieties  which  are  immune,  or 
nearly  so,  stand  out.  It  may  therefore  be  that  cer- 
tain roses  marked  down  for  "Foliage"  will  do  better 
with  the  average  amateur  than  they  will  here.  To 
receive  "A,"  the  foliage  must  be  practically  immune 
from  mildew  and  spot,  and  must  hold  well  throughout 
the  season. 

In  marking  for  "Stem"  a  long  strong  stem  is 
marked  "A,"  short  stems  and  those  not  able  to  sus- 
tain the  weight  of  the  bloom  are  marked  "B,"  etc. 

In  "Size"  a  rose  is  considered  "Medium"  which 
runs  from  three  and  a  half  to  four  and  a  half  inches 
hi  the  spring.  Smaller  roses  are  marked  "S"  and 
larger  roses  marked  "L." 

It  seemed  best  to  give  the  actual  number  of  blooms 
on  all  the  varieties  so  that  a  grower  would  know 
the  number  of  flowers  he  might  expect.  In  this  con- 
nection, it  will  be  understood  that  the  number  of 
blooms  varies  greatly  under  different  climatic  con- 
ditions. As  a  usual  thing  the  rose  season  here  com- 
mences about  the  twenty-fifth  of  May,  but  testing 

beds  in  which  the  records  have  been  made  are  about 

74 


BEST  VARIETIES  WITH  CHARACTERISTICS 

five  hundred  feet  above  sea  level.  In  Southern  Phila- 
delphia, where  the  altitude  is  less,  the  bloom  com- 
mences at  least  ten  days  earlier.  Of  course,  in  all 
localities  the  time  of  blooming  is  affected  by  the  sea- 
son. A  month  which  gives  cool  weather  and  much 
rain  increases  the  blooming  of  a  rose,  and  a  month 
of  great  heat  and  drought  will  naturally  reduce  the 
number  of  flowers;  but  as  the  records  are  taken  from 
a  number  of  years  in  the  majority  of  cases,  an  average 
should  be  reached  which  is  exact  enough  for  all  re- 
quirements. In  a  short  test  a  rose  may  do  well  hi 
one  bed  and  badly  in  another.  This  has  been  insured 
against  as  far  as  possible  by  planting  a  number  of 
roses  of  each  variety,  and  having  a  test  of  never  less 
than  two  years. 

"Form"  has  been  marked  for  the  length  and  beauty 
of  the  bud  and  also  for  the  substance  of  the  open 
flower;  petallageand  size  have  both  been  considered; 
short  buds  and  blooms  which  open  singly  or  flat  are 
marked  "B,"  etc. 

"Lasting"  refers  entirely  to  the  keeping  qualities 
both  before  and  after  cutting. 

"Color"  is  marked  for  the  clearness  and  beauty  of 
the  color;  "B"  or  "C"  are  used  if  the  rose  is  either 
somewhat  muddy  or  verges  on  a  solferino  shade, 
which  is  not  considered  of  the  first  beauty  hi  roses. 
The  color  descriptions  of  the  blooms  in  the  Main  List 

75 


OUTDOOR  ROSE  GROWING 

are  mostly  taken  from  the  catalogue  of  Alexander 
Dickson  &  Sons,  Ltd.  It  is  noted  where  there  is  a  very 
marked  difference  between  this  and  roses  tested  here. 

Where  two  letters  are  used,  it  will  be  understood 
that  the  description  in  question  will  range,  for  in- 
stance: from  "B" — good  to  "A" — very  good,  etc. 

The  last  two  right-hand  columns  are  a  handy 
reference  for  planting  and  pruning,  and  the  distances 
for  planting  may  be  followed  implicitly.  These  have 
been  changed  in  many  places  because  during  the 
last  year  experiments  with  spacing  have  proved  that 
roses  do  better  with  more  room.  Therefore,  while 
the  marks  given  could  be  shaded  to  a  slight  extent, 
for  general  garden  work  they  should  be  closely  fol- 
lowed. They  are  based  on  the  cultivation  afterwards 
advised.  It  is  most  important  that  with  these  dis- 
tances a  mulch  be  used  to  protect  the  rose  roots  from 
the  heat,  otherwise  they  are  too  great.  This  is  espe- 
cially true  in  localities  with  open  porous  soil,  or  where 
local  conditions  cause  quick  drainage.  As  a  rule,  a 
rose  will  require  more  space  on  Multiflora  than  on 
Briar,  on  account  of  its  greater  growth  on  this  stock. 

The  pruning  column  will  be  understood  after  the 
chapter  " Pruning "  is  read;  the  number  of  eyes  given 
for  pruning  being  for  the  strongest  wood,  weak  wood 
being  cut  lower  down.  "D.W. "  in  this  column  stands 

for  dead  wood. 

76 


BEST  VARIETIES  WITH  CHARACTERISTICS 

Nearly  every  rose  has  some  slight  perfume,  but 
in  very  many  cases  it  is  so  mild  that  it  is  hardly 
noticeable.  A  column  is  therefore  not  added  for  per- 
fume, but  with  roses  in  which  the  perfume  is  distinct, 
the  same  is  noted  under  the  description  of  the  variety. 

Where  Multiflora  is  suggested  hi  the  left-hand 
column,  the  plant  is  marked  for  growth  on  Multiflora, 
and  where  special  bed  is  noted,  the  rose  is  marked 
for  special  bed. 

The  Main  List  referred  to  will  be  found  on  the 
following  pages. 


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OUTDOOR  ROSE  GROWING 

SCHEDULE  OP  POINTS  FOR  JUDGING 
OF  OUTDOOR  ROSES 

ORIGINATED  BY  DR.  ROBERT  HUEY.  JESSE  A.  CURREY, 
GEORGE  C.  THOMAS.  JR. 

INDIVIDUAL  QUALITIES 
Novelty  5 

Color  10 

Fragrance  5 

Lasting  10 

Total    SO 

FOBM 

Shape  10 

Substance  5 

Petallage  5 

Size  5 

Total    25 

HABIT  AND  GROWTH 


Blooming 
Hardiness 

15 

10 

Foliage 
Growth 

10 
5 

Stem 

5 

Total    45 

Grand  Total  100 

INDIVIDUAL  QUALITIES 
NOVELTY  [5] 

The  conditions  to  be  considered  in  judging  this 
quality  shall  be: 

1st — With  roses  of  any  established  class,  the 
Improvement  or  Distinctiveness  of  the  Color,  Fra- 
grance, Lasting,  Shape,  Size,  Substance,  Petallage  or 
Stem,  with  regard  to  the  bloom. 

98 


BEST  VAEIETIES  WITH  CHAEACTERISTICS 

The  Improvement  of  the  Hardiness,  Foliage,  or 
Growth,  with  regard  to  the  habit  of  the  plant. 

2d — With  roses  of  any  new  class,  the  Distinctive- 
ness,  Individuality  and  Improvement  over  classes 
already  established. 

Note. — Any  new  rose  which  is  to  receive  an  award 
as  a  new  variety  must  have  filed  with  the  Society 
under  whose  auspices  it  competes,  a  certified  pedi- 
gree if  same  is  known,  or  certificate  giving  as  many 
facts  as  possible  with  relation  to  its  origin  if  the 
entire  pedigree  is  unknown. 

COLOR  [10] 

The  conditions  to  be  considered  in  judging  this 
quality  shall  be: 

Uniformity,  both  as  to  shades  and  markings; 
clearness  and  beauty  of  the  color;  and  freedom  from 
splotches,  muddiness  and  objectionable  shades. 

FRAGRANCE  [5] 

The  conditions  to  be  considered  in  judging  this 
quality  shall  be: 

Abundance  and  refinement. 

LASTING  [10] 
The  conditions  to  be  considered  in  judging  this 

quality  shall  be: 

99 


OUTDOOR  ROSE  GROWING 

1st — The  lasting  of  the  color  of  the  flower,  cut  and 
uncut. 

2d — The  retention  of  the  fragrance  of  the  flower, 
cut  and  uncut. 

3d — The  lasting  of  the  form  of  the  flower,  as  a 
bud,  as  partly  opened,  and  as  a  full-blown  rose,  cut 
and  uncut. 

FORM 
SHAPE  [10] 

The  conditions  to  be  considered  in  judging  this 
quality  shall  be: 

1st — To  consider  the  type  of  rose  being  judged  and 
to  compare  the  exhibit  with  a  rose  of  perfect  shape 
of  that  type. 

In  regard  to  exhibition  varieties,  the  most  desired 
shape  is  a  long  spiral  bud,  which,  as  the  rose  opens, 
maintains  a  high  pointed  center.  Roses  which  are 
short  in  bud,  and  which  open  flat,  should  be  adversely 
scored. 

SUBSTANCE  [5] 

The  conditions  to  be  considered  in  judging  this 
quality  shall  be: 

1st — To  consider  the  type  of  rose  being  judged 
and  to  compare  the  exhibit  with  a  rose  of  perfect 
substance  of  that  type. 

2d — The  weight  or  thickness  of  the  petals. 

100 


BEST  VARIETIES  WITH  CHARACTERISTICS 

PETALLAGE  [5] 

The  conditions  to  be  considered  in  judging  this 
quality  shall  be: 

1st — To  consider  the  type  of  rose  being  judged 
and  to  compare  the  exhibit  with  a  rose  of  perfect 
petallage  of  that  type. 

In  considering  Hybrid  Teas,  Hybrid  Perpetuals, 
Pernetianas,  and  other  types  of  roses  used  for  exhibi- 
tion, first,  the  shape  of  the  petals  shall  be  considered; 
and  second,  the  number  of  petals. 

A  rose  of  this  type,  to  score  the  maximum  under 
this  quality,  should  have  approximately  forty  (40) 
petals.  A  single  rose  shall  be  one  which  has  from 
four  (4)  to  ten  (10)  petals;  a  semi-double  rose  shall 
be  one  which  has  from  eleven  (11)  to  twenty-five  (25) 
petals;  a  double  rose  shall  be  one  which  has  over 
twenty-five  (25)  petals. 
SIZE  [5] 

The  conditions  to  be  considered  in  judging  this 
quality  shall  be: 

To  consider  the  type  of  rose  being  judged  and  to 
compare  the  exhibit  with  a  rose  of  perfect  size  of 
that  type. 

HABIT  AND  GROWTH 
BLOOMING  [15] 

The  conditions  to  be  considered  in  judging  this 
quality  shall  be: 

101 


OUTDOOR  ROSE  GROWING 

The  length  of  the  blooming  season;  the  continuity 
of  blooms;  and  the  number  of  blooms  produced. 

Note. — In  judging  Hybrid  Teas,  Pernetianas,  and 
other  types  of  roses  which  bloom  throughout  the 
entire  growing  season,  and  which,  on  account  of 
their  beauty  and  length  of  stem,  are  useful  for  cut 
flower  varieties,  a  plant  which,  after  the  first  year, 
produces  fifty  (50)  blooms  should  receive  the  maxi- 
mum number  of  points  for  this  quality. 
HARDINESS  [10] 

The  conditions  to  be  considered  in  judging  this 
quality  shall  be: 

To  consider  the  type  of  rose  being  judged  and  to 
compare  the  exhibit  with  a  rose  of  perfect  hardiness 
of  that  type,  noting  particularly  the  amount  of  winter 
killing,  and  the  extent  to  which  the  variety  is  affected 
by  extreme  heat  or  other  climatic  conditions. 
FOLIAGE  [10] 

The  conditions  to  be  considered  in  judging  this 
quality  shall  be: 

1st — The  quality  and  substance  of  the  foliage. 

2d — The  lasting  qualities  of  the  foliage  during  the 
entire  growing  season. 

3d — The  immunity  of  the  foliage  from  mildew, 
spot  and  other  diseases. 

102 


BEST  VARIETIES  WITH  CHARACTERISTICS 

GKOWTH  [5] 

The  conditions  to  be  considered  in  judging  this 
quality  shall  be: 

To  consider  the  type  of  rose  being  judged  and  to 
compare  the  exhibit  with  a  rose  of  perfect  growth  of 
that  type,  special  attention  being  given,  not  only  to 
the  vigor  of  the  plant  and  the  number  of  canes  pro- 
duced, but  also  to  the  uniformity  and  even  balance 
of  the  growth. 

In  judging  climbers  or  ramblers,  the  strength  and 
length  of  the  shoot  bearing  the  blooms,  and  the 
branching  habit,  shall  be  especially  considered. 
STEM  [5] 

The  conditions  to  be  considered  in  judging  this 
quality  shall  be: 

The  length  and  strength  of  the  stem  which  carries 
the  bloom. 

In  judging  exhibition  varieties  the  following  points 
shall  be  scored: 

A  plant  on  which  the  stem  carrying  the  bloom  is  6  inches  in 

length  shall  receive 1  point 

From  6  to  8  inches 2  points 

From  8  to  10  inches 3  points 

From  10  to  12  inches 4  points 

Over  12  inches 5  points 

providing  that,  in  each  case,  the  stem  shall  be  of 
sufficient  strength  to  properly  carry  the  weight  of 
the  bloom. 

103 


OUTDOOR  ROSE  GROWING 


Quality 


Novelty 

- 


Fragrance 


79 


-Coto 


v    . 
t 
UwrVfc  3- 


BLOOMING 
(Exhibition) 


Miy 


June 


July 


Aug 


7y 


Strong 


Early  Bloom 


No   Hours  Held  Color 


Early  Bloom 


OnBl 
Cut 


Blooms  Measured 


Early  Bloom 


Bud 
Rose 


Bud 
Rose 


Bud 
Rose 


On  Bush 
Cut 


Fragrance 


No   Hours  Held  Fragrance 


Early  Bloom 


OnBuih 
Cut 


STEM 
(Exhibition) 


On  Bush 
Cut 


''No   Hours  Held  Form 


Length  in 


Early  Bloom 


On  Bi 
Cut 


Early  Bloom 


On  Bush 
Cut 


On  Bush  jpf 

02*e 


PETALLAGE 
Blooms  Counted 


.FOLIAGE 


Early  Bloom 


July, 


M,d  Season 


3<S  38 


Aug. 


Sept. 


Specimen  Score  Card  by  which  roses  are  judged. 
104 


m 

NEW  INTRODUCTIONS  AND  SPECIAL 

CLASSES 

IT  is  better  to  keep  new  roses  entirely  separate 
from  the  main  lists  of  varieties  which  have  been 
thoroughly  tested.  Occasionally  a  new  rose  shows 
enough  value  to  stamp  it  at  once  as  worth  while, 
but  the  vast  majority  are  worthless.  The  ones  which 
are  mentioned  hereafter  are  treated  most  conserva- 
tively, yet  some  have  stood  out  as  possessing  merit, 
and  others  cannot  yet  be  eliminated.  Any  one  who 
plants  untried  varieties  will  find  that,  with  few  ex- 
ceptions, they  will  not  be  worth  cultivation. 

ADMIRAL  WARD;  Hybrid  Tea;  Pernet-Ducher,  1915.  Crimson 
red,  shaded  with  fiery  red  and  velvety  purple.  Named  after  the  well- 
known  rosarian.  Beautiful  color  and  form,  and  undoubtedly  will 
be  a  fine  collector's  rose.  Has  not  yet  shown  sufficient  growth  or 
blooming  qualities  to  be  included  in  the  best  of  the  reds. 

CHEERFUL;  Hybrid  Tea;  McGredy  &  Son.  1915.  Pure  orange 
flame,  with  distinct  orange  yellow  base.  Attractive  color;  fair 
growth  and  foliage.  Worth  watching. 

CLEVELAND;  Hybrid  Tea;  Hugh  Dickson,  1916.  Coppery  yellow 
at  base  of  petals,  which  are  heavily  flushed  reddish  copper  on  old 
rose.  Beautiful  color:  quite  good  form;  mild  fragrance;  only  shows 
fair  growth.  Tested  Jor  one  year,  and  cannot  yet  be  classed  in  the 
list  of  dependable  varieties. 

COMTESSE  DE  RAPELis  ST.  SAUVEURj  Hybrid  Tea;  Leenders, 
1916.  Reddish  orange  shaded  coral  red.  Shows  good  growth;  good 
foliage;  good  blooming  qualities;  undoubtedly  only  a  decorative 
rose;  semi-double,  being  little  better  than  single;  rather  an  attractive 
color. 

GOLDEN  MEYER;  Hybrid  Tea;  Paul  &  Son,  1915.  Golden  yellow. 
Good  light-colored  rose;  not  yet  showing  enough  growth  to  be  seri- 
ously considered. 

105 


OUTDOOR  ROSE  GROWING 

GORGEOUS;  Hybrid  Tea;  Hugh  Dickson,  1915.  Deep  orange 
yellow,  heavily  veined  with  reddish  copper.  Unique  and  beautiful 
color;  fair  form;  hardy;  has  not  shown  enough  merit  to  warrant  its 
inclusion  in  the  lists  and  cannot  yet  be  recommended  except  for 
collectors. 

HADLEY;  Hybrid  Tea;  Waban  Conservatories,  1914.  Bright  red. 
Growth  only  fair;  foliage  quite  good.  Color  distinct;  attractive 
bloom  in  the  spring;  small  bloom  in  summer.  Needs  time  to  become 
established.  Worthy  of  a  further  test. 

HOOSIER  BEAUTY;  Hybrid  Tea;  Dorner,  1915.  Glowing  crimson 
with  darker  shadings.  A  remarkable  color,  but  so  far  growth  and 
blooming  qualities  below  the  average. 

IMOGEN;  Hybrid  Tea;  Paul  &  Son,  1915.  Orange  yellow  in 
center,  shading  towards  the  outside  to  pale  yellow  and  creamy 
white.  Very  attractive  yellow  rose;  beautiful  form;  doing  fairly 
well  for  the  first  year,  although  cannot  yet  be  considered  more  than 
a  collector's  rose. 

Los  ANGELES;  Hybrid  Tea;  Howard  &  Smith,  1916.  Flame 
pink  shaded  to  yellow,  toned  with  salmon.  A  cross  between  Madame 
Segond  Weber  and  Lyon,  the  color  being  much  on  the  order  of 
Lyon.  Undoubtedly  most  promising,  but  not  yet  thoroughly 
tested.  Mr.  McFarland,  of  Harrisburg,  reports  that  it  gives  splendid 
growth  outside  and  good  bloom.  Mr.  Eisele,  of  Dreer's,  is  most 
enthusiastic  about  this  rose,  and  considers  it  a  particularly  fine 
bedding  variety. 

MADAME  COLETTE  MARTINET;  Hybrid  Tea;  Pernet-Ducher, 
1915.  Beautiful  old  gold  yellow,  shaded  with  orange  yellow,  golden 
yellow  bud.  A  case  in  point  of  the  danger  of  recommending  a  new 
rose — considered  promising  in  1915  on  account  of  its  most  attractive 
color,  good  foliage  and  fair  growth.  Has  not  improved  during  the 
past  season  and  can  only  be  considered  as  a  collector's  rose. 

MADAME  MARCEL  DELANNEY;  Hybrid  Tea;  Leenders,  1916. 
Pale  pink  or  soft  rose,  shaded  with  hydrangea  pink.  A  rose  planted 
in  January,  1916.  which  has  shown  good  growth,  very  good  foliage 
fine  long  stems,  beautiful  color  and  good  perfume.  Not  a  profuse 
bloomer,  but  has  done  remarkably  well  for  the  short  time  tested. 
Undoubtedly  a  wonderful  rose  for  cut  blooms,  and  a  possibility  of 
its  being  a  good  all-round  rose. 

MARCELLA;  Hybrid  Tea;  Paul  &  Son,  1913.  Buds  buff,  opening 
flower  salmon  flesh.  A  wonderful  bloom  when  you  get  it.  Of  most 
attractive  coloring,  but  of  extremely  poor  growth  and  useful  only 
to  collectors. 

MELANIE  NIEDIECK;  Hybrid  Tea;  Leenders,  1916.  Vivid  lemon 
yellow.  Showing  really  remarkable  growth  for  the  first  year.  Re- 
ported by  Bobbink  &  Atkins,  of  Rutherford,  N.  J.,  to  be  one  of  the 
best  new  roses  on  the  Multiflora  with  them.  Good  foliage  which 
holds  well.  The  bloom  is  medium,  of  attractive  color  in  the  bud, 
which,  however,  is  not  of  the  best  form,  and  the  color  fades  quickly. 
A  good  bloomer,  and  while  having  a  good  stem,  will  never  be  one 
of  the  best  cut  flowers  as  it  does  not  last. 

106 


NEW  INTRODUCTIONS  AND  SPECIAL  CLASSES 

MRS.  BERTRAM  J.  WALKER;  Hybrid  Tea;  Hugh  Dickson,  1915. 
Clear  bright  cerise  pink.  Of  attractive  color,  but  has  not  grown 
well  for  the  first  year;  loses  its  foliage,  and  gives  practically  no  fall 
bloom.  Undoubtedly  only  a  collector's  rose. 

MRS.  FRANKLIN  DENNISON;  Hybrid  Tea;  McGredy,  1915. 
Porcelain  white,  veiled  primrose  yellow  deepening  to  ochre  at  the 
base.  Showing  good  growth  for  the  first  year;  attractive  coloring, 
but  with  only  fair  foliage.  A  rose  worth  watching. 

MRS.  GEORGE  GORDON;  Hybrid  Tea;  Hugh  Dickson,  1915. 
Bright  rosy  pink,  flushed  silvery  pink  at  the  edges  of  the  petals. 
Good  growth  and  good  blooming  qualities;  fair  foliage;  semi-double 
and  fades  quickly.  Needs  to  be  tested  further. 

MRS.  HUGH  DICKSON;  Hybrid  Tea;  Hugh  Dickson,  1915.  Deep 
cream  with  heavy  suffusion  of  orange  and  apricot.  A  rose  which 
has  not  shown  up  well,  but  which  is  attractive  in  color  and  foliage. 
Worthy  only  of  a  place  in  large  collections. 

MRS.  MACKELLAR;  Hybrid  Tea;  Alex.  Dickson  &  SonSj  1915. 
Solid  deep  citron  or  delicate  pure  canary,  passing  to  pearly  primrose. 
A  rose  of  perfect  form  in  bud;  somewhat  shy  in  petals  and  does  not 
open  as  well  as  the  best;  foliage  holds  well;  the  color  is  clear  and 
attractive.  Undoubtedly  a  variety  which  will  need  consideration 
in  a  short  time  if  its  improvement  continues. 

MRS.  MONA  HUNTING;  Hybrid  Tea;  Hugh  Dickson,  1916.  Deep 
chamois  yellow,  opening  to  pure  fawn.  A  very  attractive  color; 
fair  form,  with  a  good  stem.  Will  probably  not  give  enough  growth 
to  be  included  in  the  list,  but  is  promising  as  a  collector's  rose. 

MURIEL  DICKSON;  Pernetiana;  Hugh  Dickson,  1915.  Deep 
reddish  copper  in  the  bud  state,  paling  with  age  to  cherry  red  with 
coppery  shadings.  Of  wonderful  color,  but  very  weak  growth;  three 
plants  out  of  four  died  during  the  past  winter.  When  established, 
however,  it  may  prove  to  be  hardy. 

NATIONAL  EMBLEM;  Hybrid  Tea;  McGredy  &  Son,  1915.  Dark 
crimson,  overlaid  velvety  crimson  shading  to  vermilion  towards  the 
edges.  A  rose  of  beautiful  and  distinct  color,  and  fine  form  for  a 
red;  good  foliage  and  fair  growth  for  the  first  year,  eombined^with 
hardiness.  This  rose  may  go  a  great  deal  further. 

NELLIE  PARKER;  Hybrid  Tea;  Hugh  Dickson,  1916.  Pale 
creamy  white,  with  deeper  cream  center.  Shows  fair  growth  for 
the  first  season;  good  form;  some  fragrance;  of  medium  size;  usually 
having  a  good  stem. 

PANAMA;  Hybrid  Tea;  J.  Cook,  1916.  Rich  peachy  pink,  inside 
of  petals  creamy  white.  A  rose  well  spoken  of,  but  not  yet  thoroughly 
tested  outside  and  therefore  cannot  be  recommended  as  an  all-round 
rose.  Plants  tested  by  J.  N.  Richardson,  Baltimore,  planted  May, 
1916,  gave  twenty-six  blooms  throughout  the  season. 

PRINCE  CHARMING;  Hybrid  Tea;  Hugh  Dickson,  1916.  Deep 
reddish  copper?  with  old  gold  base.  Semi-double,  of  attractive 
color,  with  lasting  qualities.  Showing  enough  growth  the  first  year 
to  make  it  worth  while  considering  further.  Promises  to  be  a  good 
bedding  variety. 

107 


OUTDOOR  ROSE  GROWING 

QUEEN  OP  FRAGRANCE;  Hybrid  Tea;  Paul  &  Son,  1915.  Shell- 
pink  tipped  with  silver.  Hardy;  shows  good  growth  for  the  first 
year;  fair  in  form,  attractive  in  color.  Evidently  will  not  be  a 
wonderful  bloomer.  Bears  out  the  promise  of  its  name  to  a  great 
extent.  Not  sufficiently  tested  to  be  recommended  for  everyone. 

RED  RADIANCE;  Hybrid  Tea;  As  the  name  implies,  a 
sport  from  the  well-known  pink  rose,  with  more  fragrance 
than  the  mother  plant,  and  of  attractive  color.  Not  yet  thoroughly 
tested  outside,  but  from  reports  a  rose  worthy  of  cultivation. 

SOUVENIR  OP  HENRY  GRAHAM;  Hybrid  Tea;  Alex.  Dickson  & 
Sons,  1915.  Faintly  blushed  carmine  on  pearly  delicate  cream.  Fair 
growth;  foliage  holds,  but  mildews.  An  attractive  rose  and  worth 
watching. 

TIPPERARY;  Hybrid  Tea;  McGredy  &  Son,  1916.  The  color  is 
midway  between  Lady  Hillingdon  and  Melody.  Color  trifle  less 
deep  than  Hillingdon,  here  a  nice  light  yellow.  Medium  size;  good 
foliage,  fair  perfume.  Shows  fair  growth,  but  with  Dr.  Belville,  of 
Germantown,  shows  good  strong  growth.  During  1916  gave  thirty- 
five  blooms  from  dormant  spring  planting.  Evidently  will  be  quite 
a  bloomer,  and  one  of  the  most  promising  of  the  new  varieties. 

TITANIA;  China;  Paul  &  Son,  1915.  Coppery  crimson  in  the 
bud,  changing  as  the  flowers  open  to  deep  salmon  red,  the  base  of 
the  petals  being  shaded  with  clear  yellow.  Very  much  the  color 
of  Daily  Mail,  although  a  trifle  lighter,  having  better  growth  the  first 
year,  and  more  petals.  Has  been  perfectly  hardy,  and  is  going 
to  be  a  fine  bloomer,  with  plenty  of  fall  bloom.  Medium  to  fair  size, 
only  a  trace  of  fragrance.  Promises  to  be  a  fine  bedding  variety. 

Where  the  temperature  goes  well  below  zero  for 
considerable  periods,  only  the  hardiest  of  roses  will 
live  through  the  winter,  and  in  the  very  coldest 
sections  some  of  these  hardy  classes  must  have  winter 
protection.  For  such  districts  Hybrid  Perpetuals  for 
cut  flowers,  Rugosas  and  Hybrid  Rugosas  for  massing 
and  hedges,  Wichuraianas  and  their  Hybrids,  and  a 
few  other  hardy  climbers,  are  the  ones  recommended. 

In  such  localities,  owing  to  the  shorter  season  of 
growth  and  cooler  summers,  Hybrid  Perpetuals 
bloom  for  a  longer  period  than  farther  south;  Rugosas 
give  flowers  from  July  to  September,  and  the  Wich- 
uraianas seem  to  prolong  their  beauty. 

108 


NEW  INTRODUCTIONS  AND  SPECIAL  CLASSES 
HYBRID  PERPETUALS 

This  class  gives  large  beautiful  flowers  on  long 
stalwart  stems,  most  attractive  as  cut  flowers;  some 
varieties  are  fragrant;  but  we  have  no  yellow  Hybrid 
Perpetual  of  merit. 

There  is  no  perfectly  hardy  yellow  rose  for  the 
extreme  North  which  compares  in  form  with  the 
Hybrid  Perpetuals.  Harry  Kirk  is  the  hardiest  of 
the  good  yellows,  but  not  hardy  enough  to  stand 
the  extreme  Northern  winters.  The  old  Austrian 
Briars  are  very  hardy,  but  their  flowers  are  single 
and  they  bloom  only  for  a  short  period  in  the  spring. 
It  would  seem  that  some  of  the  recent  introductions 
hi  Hybrid  Austrian  Briars  (Pernetianas)  might  do 
well  in  this  section.  Perhaps  the  best  to  try  would 
be  Soleil  d'Or,  a  cross  between  the  old  Persian  Yellow 
and  a  Hybrid  Perpetual.  This  rose  does  not  kill 
back  at  all  near  Philadelphia.  While  not  of  perfect 
form,  it  is  large  and  double,  and  of  most  attractive 
color;  and  has  been  added  to  the  Hybrid  Perpetual 
list.  In  addition,  four  Hybrid  Teas  with  Hybrid 
Perpetual  characteristics  have  been  included. 

The  best  of  the  Hybrid  Perpetuals  for  fall  bloom 
are:  Captain  Hayward,  Frau  Karl  Druschki,  Mar- 
garet Dickson,  Mrs.  John  Laing,  Paul  Neyron,  Oskar 
Cordel  and  Urania,  although  Frau  Karl  Druschki 

109 


OUTDOOR  ROSE  GROWING 

and  Oskar  Cordel  are  the  only  ones  which  may  be 
depended  upon. 

The  list  given  covers  the  best  roses  of  the  main 
shades,  but  the  class  contains  over  fifty  well-known 
varieties. 

BARONESS  ROTHSCHILD;  Fernet,  1867. 

Pale  rose. 
CAPTAIN  HAYWARD;  Bennett,  1893. 

Scarlet  crimson.    Perfumed. 
FISHER  HOLMES;  E.  Verdier,  1865. 

Deep  velvety  crimson. 
FRAU  KARL  DRUSCHKI;  Lambert,  1900. 

Snow  white,  sometimes  lightest  pink  blush  at  center. 
GEOFFREY  HENSLOW;  Alex.  Dickson  &  Sons,  1912. 

Orange  crimson;  classed  as  a  Hybrid  Tea,  but  with  Hybrid 

Perpetual  characteristics.    Sweet. 
GEORGE  ARENDS;  Hinner,  1910. 

Delicate  rose.    Scented. 
GLOIRE  DE  CHEDANE  GUINOISSEAU;  Guinoisseau  &  Chedane,  1908. 

Bright  vermilion  red,  shaded  velvet.    Very  large. 
GLOIRE  LYONNAISE;  GuiUot,  1884. 

Very  pale  lemon;  wonderful  foliage,  and  except  in  the  extreme 

North  may  be  grown  as  a  pillar  or  hedge  rose;  small  to  medium- 
sized  flowers;  never  develops  seed  pods;  classed  as  a  Hybrid 

Tea,  but  with  Hybrid  Perpetual  characteristics.   Tea  fragrance. 
HON.  INA  BINGHAM;  Alex.  Dickson  &  Sons,  1905. 

Silver  pink;  semi-double;  classed  as  a  Hybrid  Tea,  but  with 

Hybrid  Perpetual  characteristics. 
J.  B.  CLARK;  Hugh  Dickson,  1905. 

Deep  scarlet,  shaded  blackish  crimson;  classed  as  a  Hybrid  Tea, 

but  with  Hybrid  Perpetual  characteristics.    Fragrant. 
MADAME  GABRIEL  LUIZET;  Liabaud,  1877. 

Light  silvery  pink. 
MARGARET  DICKSON;  Alex.  Dickson  &  Sons,  1891. 

White,  pale  flesh  center. 
MERVEILLE  DE  LYON;  Fernet,  1882.    (Syn.  White  Baroness.) 

White,  center  slightly  peach. 
MRS.  GEORGE  DICKSON;  Bennett,  1884. 

Delicate  soft  pink.     Do  not  confound  with  George  Dickson. 

Fragrant. 
MRS.  JOHN  LAING;  Bennett,  1887. 

Soft  pink.    Fragrant. 
MRS.  R.  G.  SHARMAN  CRAWFORD;  Alex.  Dickson  &  Sons,  1894. 

Deep  rosy  pink — outer  petals  shaded  with  pale  flesh. 
OSKAR  CORDEL;  Lambert,  1897. 

Bright  carmine.    Sweet. 

110 


NEW  INTRODUCTIONS  AND  SPECIAL  CLASSES 

PAUL  NEYRON;  Levet,  1869. 

Deep  rose. 
PRINCE  CAMILLE  DE  ROHAN;  E.  Verdier,  1861. 

Deepest  velvety  crimson;  this  variety  has  rather  a  weak  stem. 

Fragrant. 
SUZANNE  MARIE  RODOCANACHI;  E.  Verdier,  1880. 

Catalogued  as  soft  pink;  in  this  country  more  of  a  cerise — very 

much  the  same  shade  as  Dorothy  Page  Roberts.    Fragrant. 
ULRICH  BRUNNER;  Levet,  1882. 

Cherry  crimson.    Sweet. 
URANIA;  M.  H.  Walsh,  1914. 

Bright  crimson. 
XAVIER  OLIBO;  Lacharme,  1864. 

Very  dark  crimson;  a  shy  bloomer. 
SOLEIL  D'OR;  Pernetiana;  J.  Pernet-Ducher,  1900. 

Orange  yellow  to  reddish  gold,  shaded  with  nasturtium  red. 

The  new  yellow  Hybrid  Perpetual,  Ludwig  Moller, 
has  been  tested  for  one  year,  but,  both  inside  and 
out,  is  an  absolute  failure. 

In  the  Pacific  Northwest,  near  Portland,  the 
Hybrid  Perpetuals  give  very  much  better  bloom 
throughout  a  longer  period  than  they  do  in  the  East. 
For  example,  Mr.  Currey,  of  Portland,  Oregon,  re- 
ports sixty-five  blooms  on  Druschki,  as  noted  in  the 
Main  List;  and  on  Ulrich  Brunner  he  gives  the  fol- 
lowing record:  June,  24;  July,  11;  August,  9;  Sep- 
tember, 4;  October,  10;  Total,  58.  Of  course,  in 
ordinary  seasons  there  would  be  further  bloom  in 
November  and  possibly  even  later. 

Hybrid  Perpetuals  should  be  pruned  on  the  same 
principle  as  Hybrid  Teas;  cut  back  in  the  spring  to 
six  and  eight  eyes  on  the  strong  wood  and  a  less  num- 
ber on  the  weak  wood.  The  dead  wood  should  be 

ill 


OUTDOOR  ROSE  GROWING 

cut  out  and  necessary  thinning  done.  Plant  from 
twenty-four  to  thirty  inches  apart.  The  roses  hi  this 
class  are  generally  budded  on  Manetti,  although 
good  results  have  been  obtained  on  Multiflora,  and 
many  will  do  well  on  their  own  roots. 

RUGOSAS  AND  THEIR  HYBRIDS 

The  original  Rugosas  are  from  Japan  and  survive 
the  long  winters  of  the  most  northern  of  these  islands, 
so  that  there  is  no  question  as  to  their  great  hardi- 
ness. They  do  very  well  by  the  sea,  as  they  are 
strong  enough  to  stand  the  heavy  winter  winds  of  the 
coast;  they  also  thrive  under  hot,  sandy  conditions. 
The  best  of  their  Hybrids  are  extremely  hardy,  and 
after  then*  bloom  is  over  are  attractive  on  account 
of  the  beautiful  fruit  which  they  bear. 

ROSA  RUGOSA  ALBA. 

Single;  white. 
ROSA  RUGOSA  ROSEA. 

Single;  pink. 
ROSA  RUGOSA  RUBRA. 

Single;  red. 
ATROPURPUREA;  Hybrid  Rugosa;  Paul  &  Son,  1899. 

Blackish  crimson,  passing  to  maroon  crimson. 
BLANC  DOUBLE  DE  COUBERT;  Hybrid  Rugosa;  Cochet-Cochet,  1894. 

Double;  paper  white. 
CONRAD  FERDINAND  MEYER;  Hybrid  Rugosa;  Frrebel,  1900. 

Clear  silvery  rose,  especially  good  in  bud  form. 
DOLLY  VARDEN;  Hybrid  Rugosa;  Paul  &  Son,  1914. 

Light  apricot  pink  with  a  yellow  base;  blooms  well  but  is  not 

of  as  large  growth  as  the  other  varieties  mentioned. 
HANSA;  Hybrid  Rugosa;  Schaum,  1905. 

Double;  reddish  violet. 
MADAME  CHARLES  WORTH;  Hybrid  Rugosa;  Schwartz,  1890. 

Semi-double;  rosy  carmine. 
MRS.  ANTHONY  WATERER;  Hybrid  Rugosa;  Watprer,  1898. 

Semi-double;  deep  crimson. 

112 


NEW  INTRODUCTIONS  AND  SPECIAL  CLASSES 

These  roses  should  be  planted  two  and  a  half 
feet  apart,  and  after  the  first  season  no  pruning  is 
necessary  except  removal  of  dead  wood  and  an 
occasional  thinning. 

DWARF  POLYANTHAS 

There  are  a  number  of  other  classes  of  roses,  the 
best  of  which  for  garden  decoration  for  the  average 
amateur  are  the  Dwarf  Polyanthas.  These  give  con- 
stant bloom,  from  frost  to  frost,  mostly  in  trusses 
or  panicles. 

One  of  these,  Gruss  an  Aachen,  has  been  con- 
sidered good  enough  to  be  included  in  the  first  list 
of  light-colored  roses. 

Mr.  Theodore  Wirth,  Superintendent  of  the  Min- 
neapolis parks,  in  the  Rose  Annual  for  1916,  gives 
the  following  list  as  best  for  that  section:  Mme. 
Levavasseur,  Katherine  Zeimet,  Marie  Pavie, 
Primula,  Annchen  Muller,  Clothilde  Soupert,  Cecile 
Brunner  and  Etoile  d'Or. 

Reverend  A.  H.  Scott,  of  Ontario,  Canada,  writing 
in  the  1916  Rose  Annual  says:  "  Jessie  cannot  be 
beaten  among  the  Dwarf  Polyanthas." 

Undoubtedly  .the  above  are  all  good,  and  in  addi- 
tion the  following  do  well: 

ELLEN  POULSON Dark  brilliant  pink. 

GEORGE  ELGER Coppery  golden  yellow. 

LEONIE  LAMESCH Bright  copper  red — golden  center. 

ORLEANS  ROSE Geranium  red — white  center. 

RODHATTE Clear  cherry  red. 

YVONNE  RABIER White. 

113 


OUTDOOR  ROSE  GROWING 

The  removal  of  the  dead  wood  of  the  past  year, 
and  some  little  thinning  out,  is  the  only  pruning 
necessary  with  this  class,  and  they  should  be  planted 
twenty  inches  apart. 

MOSS  ROSES 

The  Provence  roses  are  hardly  worthy  of  cultiva- 
tion except  by  collectors.  The  best  of  the  Hybrid 
Austrian  Briars,  better  known  now  as  Pernetianas, 
have  been  included  in  the  lists.  The  Hybrid  Bourbon 
roses  do  not  compare  with  other  roses  already  men- 
tioned. Moss  roses  are  exceedingly  hardy  and  suit- 
able for  the  North,  but  give  only  a  few  blooms  hi 
the  spring.  The  two  best  are: 

BLANCHE  MOREAU Pure  white. 

PEINCEBS  ADELAIDE Bright  silvery  rose. 

Plant  thirty  inches  apart;  prune  sparingly;  cut  out 
dead  wood  and  shorten  the  laterals,  pruning  new 
wood  of  the  last  season  to  six  eyes. 
CHINA  ROSES 

The  China  roses  are  good  fall  bloomers  as  a  rule, 
but  outside  of  a  few  of  the  best  colorings  the  Hybrid 
Teas  are  preferable.  In  addition  to  the  ones  given 
hi  the  lists,  the  following  may  be  depended  upon  to 
bloom  throughout  the  season,  and  are  of  low,  spread- 
ing growth,  with  good  foliage: 

114 


NEW  INTRODUCTIONS  AND  SPECIAL  CLASSES 

ABETHUSA Clear  yellow,  tinted  apricot. 

EUGENE  BEAUHABNAIS Amaranth;     strong?     semi-climbing 

growth;  blooms  in  clusters,  with 

good  late  bloom. 

FABVIER Dazzling  crimson. 

LAURETTE  MESSIMT Rose,  shaded  yellow. 

LEUCHFEUER Dark  velvety  crimson;  more  liable  to 

mildew  than  others  in  this  class. 

MADAME  EUGENE  RESAL Rosy  pink,  shaded  orange. 

MRS.  BOSANQUET Palest  flesh. 

QUEEN  MAB Soft    rosy    apricot,    center    shaded 

orange,   outside  tinted  rose  and 

violet;  a  very  beautiful  color,  but 

of  weak  growth  and  a  shy  bloomer. 
VmiDiPLORA Green;  is  at  best  a  freak  and  only 

useful  as  an  oddity. 

Plant  twenty  inches  apart  and  prune  sparingly, 
cutting  out  dead  wood  and  thinning  occasionally. 

HYBRID  SWEET  BRIARS 

The  Hybrid  Sweet  Briars,  which  were  introduced 
by  Lord  Penzance  and  are  a  cross  with  the  common 
English  Sweet  Briar,  are  mostly  of  rampant  growth; 
have  perfect  foliage;  single  or  semi-double;  bloom 
only  in  the  spring;  the  flowers  are  of  most  distinct 
and  attractive  colorings. 

For  hedges  plant  four  feet  apart  in  two  rows, 
staggered.  For  climbing  plant  eight  feet  apart,  and 
note  that  Lord  and  Lady  Penzance  are  much  smaller 
growers  than  any  in  this  class,  and  should  be  planted 
accordingly.  Cutting  out  dead  wood  and  thinning 
is  all  the  pruning  necessary. 

SINGLE  ROSES 

In  addition  there  are  a  number  of  single  roses  of 

distinct  colorings  which  are  good  growers,  and  some 

115 


OUTDOOR  ROSE  GROWING 

of  which  have  fall  bloom.  It  is  hard  to  draw  a  line 
between  many  of  these  and  the  single  roses  among 
the  Hybrid  Teas.  The  best  are: 

ALEXANDRA  ZARIFI Vivid  terra-cotta,  changing  to  pale 

buff. 

BARDOTT  JOB Rich  crimson. 

IRISH  BEAUTY Pure  white,  golden  anthers. 

IRISH  BRIGHTNESS Vivid  crimson,  shading  pink. 

IRISH  ELEGANCE Bronzy  orange  scarlet,  changing  to 

apricot. 

IRISH  GLORY Silvery  pink  to  crimson. 

IRISH  HARMONY Saffron  yellow,  crayoned  or  smeared 

claret;  open  flower  creamy  white. 

Miss  MURIEL  JAMISON Deep  orange  cadmium. 

MRS.  O.  G.  ORPEN Bright  rosy  pink,  golden  anthers. 

Plant  two  feet  apart.  Cut  out  dead  wood  and 
thin  for  garden  decoration. 

WILD  ROSES 

There  are  a  number  of  wild  roses,  that  is,  roses  of 
original  species,  many  of  which  are  attractive  for 
lawn  decorations,  and  all  of  which  should  be  con- 
sidered by  large  collectors  or  those  desiring  to  go  into 
hybridization.  They  are,  however,  of  no  value  to 
the  average  grower. 

In  the  American  Rose  Annual  for  1916  there  is  a 
very  interesting  article^  written  by  Charles  Downing 
Lay,  on  wild  roses  for  landscape  effects;  in  addition 
to  which  hi  the  same  volume,  and  having  especially 
to  do  with  pollenization,  will  be  found  a  further  list 
and  description  of  original  species  written  by  the 

well-known  hybridist,  Dr.  W.  Van   Fleet,   of  the 

116 


NEW  INTRODUCTIONS  AND  SPECIAL  CLASSES 

Department  of  Agriculture,  Washington;  while  still 
further  data  are  given  by  E.  H.  Wilson,  of  the  Arnold 
Arboretum. 

DECORATIVE  ROSES 

The  best  bloomers  among  the  best  all-round  roses 
will  give  very  much  better  results  than  the  so-called 
decorative  roses,  which  have  no  form  and  which  can- 
not be  used  at  all  for  cut  flower  purposes.  As  an 
example  of  this,  the  Hybrid  Tea,  Bouche,  gives  as 
much  bloom  as  any  other  light-colored  rose  and  is 
valuable  for  either  purpose. 

There  are  a  few  other  attractive  roses  which  give 
a  fair  amount  of  bloom  and  are  odd  in  their  color, 
such  as  Comtesse  du  Cayla,  and  these  are  included 
in  the  other  sections.  The  best  decorative  rose  of 
all  is  Gruss  an  Teplitz  on  account  of  its  wonderful 
amount  of  bloom.  The  best  of  the  Hybrid  Teas  in 
the  other  main  colors  are,  Bouche,  under  the  light; 
Lady  Ursula,  under  the  pinks;  and  Chrissie  Mac- 
Kellar  under  the  yellows.  These  are  very  much 
to  be  preferred  for  ordinary  decorative  purposes. 

For  the  edging  of  a  bed,  Baby  Ramblers  are  most 
attractive,  and  any  of  the  Polyanthas  will  do  well 
for  garden  decoration;  while  the  Rugosas  and  Irish 
Singles  are  good  for  hedges  and  massing. 


IV 

CLIMBERS 

UNFORTUNATELY  there  is-  not  at  this  time  any  hardy 
climbing  rose  which  blooms  through  spring,  summer 
and  autumn  with  great  reliability.  The  so-called 
hardy  ever-blooming  climbers  have  been  tested  with- 
out success.  The  ones  which  are  absolutely  hardy 
bloom  mainly  in  the  spring,  and  those  which  bloom 
throughout  the  season  need  the  most  careful  pro- 
tection hi  the  Middle  Atlantic  States. 

In  the  lists  which  follow  only  the  most  dependable 
varieties  of  climbers  are  included. 

To  make  the  subject  as  clear  as  possible,  the  var- 
ious climbers  are  divided  into  two  classes;  this  is  an 
arbitrary  division  and  not  at  all  in  accordance  with 
the  ordinary  manner  of  classification. 

In  the  first  division  are  included  Climbing  Hybrid 
Teas  and  some  other  climbers  whose  blooms  have 
the  general  shape  and  size  of  the  Hybrid  Tea  rose. 
Hybrid  Tea  climbers  are  mostly,  as  has  been  ex- 
plained heretofore,  sports  from  Hybrid  Tea  roses. 
They  do  not  bloom  as  profusely  as  the  Hybrid  Teas, 
nor  as  constantly.  They  may  be  depended  upon  to 
give  some  blooms  ha  the  spring,  and  a  few  other 
blooms  mainly  in  the  autumn,  although  these  are  so 

118 


»  -  „ 


CLIMBERS 

scattered  that  they  cannot  be  called  continually 
blooming  roses.  They  need  special  protection  here, 
but  should  do  better  farther  south.  In  addition  to 
these  are  included  some  other  roses  which  have  the 
Hybrid  Tea  form  of  bloom;  unfortunately  they  bloom 
only  in  the  spring  and  have  practically  no  bloom 
thereafter,  but  are  given  for  their  great  beauty. 

AEDS  ROVER.  Hybrid  Perpetual  Climber;  Alex. 
Dickson  and  Sons,  1898.  Color  is  crimson  shaded 
maroon;  medium  size,  good  form;  blooms  in  the 
spring  only;  flowers  come  on  short  stems;  has  a  fair 
petallage  and  is  very  fragrant.  A  hardy  rose 
but  in  the  North  the  canes  should  be  given  winter 
protection. 

CHRISTINE  WRIGHT.  Hoopes  Bros,  and  Thomas, 
of  West  Chester,  Pa.,  1903.  Cross  between  Caroline 
Testout  and  a  Wichuraiana  seedling.  Placed  with 
Hybrid  Tea  climbers  on  account  of  the  fact  that  its 
flowers  are  large  and  double;  borne  singly  and  in 
clusters;  good  form,  with  a  perfect  bud  and  good 
petallage;  color  is  wild  rose  pink;  requires  no  protec- 
tion; blooms  best  in  spring.  A  few  scattering  flowers 
hi  autumn.  A  very  satisfactory  climbing  rose.  Foli- 
age lasts  well. 

CLIMBING  AMERICAN  BEAUTY.  Hybrid  Perpetual 
Climber;  Hoopes  Bros.  &  Thomas  Company.  Rich 
rosy  crimson;  strong,  vigorous  growth,  hardy. 

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OUTDOOR  ROSE  GROWING 

Gives  remarkable  amount  of  spring  bloom,  often 
with  long  stems;  practically  no  summer  or  fall 
bloom.  Loses  foliage  early. 

CLIMBING  KAISERIN  AUGUSTA  VICTORIA.  Hybrid 
Tea;  two  firms  claim  introduction;  1897.  Primrose, 
of  same  form  and  color  as  the  dwarf  rose  of  the  same 
name;  very  beautiful,  but  only  gives  scattering 
blooms  throughout  the  season.  Requires  heavy  win- 
ter protection.  The  best  bloomer  of  the  Hybrid  Tea 
sports. 

CLIMBING  LADY  ASHTOWN.  Hybrid  Tea;  Bradley, 
1910.  Salmon  pink,  not  quite  as  good  form  as  the 
dwarf  rose  of  the  same  name;  gives  fair  amount  of 
bloom  in  spring  and  an  occasional  bloom  during 
summer  and  early  autumn.  Requires  heavy  winter 
protection.  Takes  mildew  more  easily  than  most  of 
this  class. 

CLIMBING  MADAME  MELANIE  SOUPERT.  Hybrid 
Tea;  J.  Burrel  &  Company,  1914.  Salmon  yellow, 
suffused  carmine;  large,  full,  perfect  form;  has  given 
more  bloom  than  majority  of  the  Climbing  Hybrid 
Tea  sports.  Requires  heavy  winter  protection. 

CLIMBING  MRS.  W.  J.  GRANT.  Hybrid  Tea; 
William  Paul  and  Son;  1899.  Imperial  pink;  medium 
to  large  and  good  form;  blooms  fairly  well  hi  the 
spring  with  scattering  blooms  in  the  summer  and 

autumn.    Requires  heavy  winter  protection. 

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CLIMBERS 

CLIMBING  RICHMOND.  Hybrid  Tea;  Alex.  Dickson 
and  Sons,  1912.  Pure  red  scarlet;  bloom  similar 
to  the  ordinary  dwarf  Richmond;  of  fair  form  only 
and  blooming  less  freely  in  the  autumn  and  summer 
than  in  the  spring.  Requires  heavy  winter  protection. 

DR.  W.  VAN  FLEET.  Peter  Henderson  &  Co.,  1910. 
Reported  to  be  a  cross  between  a  Wichuraiana  and 
Souv.  du  President  Carnot.  It  is  a  Hybrid  Wichu- 
raiana, but  on  account  of  the  form  of  the  bloom  is 
placed  with  the  Hybrid  Tea  climbers.  Is  more  hardy 
than  the  Hybrid  Tea  sports  and  is  of  a  soft  flesh  tint 
shading  to  delicate  peach  pink;  gives  a  bloom  on 
somewhat  longer  stem  than  the  average  climber; 
blooms  well  in  the  spring  and  scattering  blooms 
thereafter.  Foliage  very  good  and  lasts  quite  well. 

Dr.  Van  Fleet  has  brought  out  through  Lovett  of  Little  Silver, 
N.  J.,  another  Wichuraiana  Hybrid  named  "Mary  Lovett,"  a 
cross  between  a  seedling  Wichuraiana  and  Kaiserin  Augusta 
Victoria  and  termed  a  White  Dr.  Van  Fleet.  This  rose  has  done 
remarkably  well  during  1916  and  is  strongly  recommended.  Loses 
foliage  early. 

MADAME  HECTOR  LEUILLOT.  Hybrid  Tea;  Pernet- 
Ducher,  1904.  Golden  yellow  tinted  with  carmine 
in  the  center;  large,  full;  gives  scattering  blooms 
throughout  the  entire  season,  and  most  attractive 
color.  Not  as  tall  a  grower  as  the  balance  of 
this  class  and  requires  heaviest  winter  protection. 
Should  do  very  well  south  of  Washington  and  hi 
similar  climates. 

121 


OUTDOOR  ROSE  GROWING 

REINE  MARIE  HENRIETTE.  Hybrid  Tea;  Levet, 
1878.  Madame  BSrard  (of  Gloire  de  Dijon)  X 
General  Jacqueminot.  Deep  cherry  red;  blooms 
prolifically  in  the  spring,  the  flowers  being  of  good 
form  and  petallage  and  fragrant;  it  occasionally  gives 
blooms  in  summer  and  autumn.  Requires  winter 
protection. 

In  the  second  division  are  placed  all  the  other 
climbing  or  rambling  roses  which  have  given  the 
best  results,  most  of  them  being  Hybrid  Wichuraiana. 
Except  in  the  extreme  North  they  are  hardy  and 
of  much  more  vigorous  growth  than  the  Hybrid  Tea 
sports,  though  as  a  rule  they  only  bloom  for  a  short 
season  hi  the  early  summer  and  a  few  have  some 
autumn  or  summer  flowers. 

The  breeding  of  this  entire  class  is  considerably 
involved,  and  different  authorities  and  catalogues 
list  the  roses  variously  as  Hybrid  Wichuraianas, 
Hybrid  Polyanthas,  Polyanthas  and  Multifloras;  for 
example,  Hiawatha  is  listed  in  many  places  as  a 
Hybrid  Wichuraiana,  whereas  this  rose  is  a  cross 
between  Turner's  Crimson  Rambler  and  Carmine 
Pillar;  the  first  a  Polyantha,  and  the  second  usually 
listed  as  a  Climbing  Hybrid  Tea.  Goldfinch  is  from 
Helene,  which  is  a  cross  between  Turner's  Crimson 
Rambler  and  a  seedling  of  the  Polyantha  Aglaia, 
yet  this  rose  is  sometimes  listed  as  a  Multiflora. 

122 


CLIMBERS 

CECILE  BRUNNER.  Polyantha  Hybrid;  sprays; 
beautifully  formed,  small.  This  rose,  if  secured  in 
three-year-old  plants  and  given  heavy  winter  pro- 
tection, has  proved  one  of  the  best  bloomers  among 
climbing  roses.  It  is  not  as  vigorous  a  cumber  as 
the  Wichuraianas,  but  makes  good  growth  of  eight- 
to  ten-foot  canes,  on  which  its  miniature,  perfectly 
formed  flowers  appear  in  sprays.  The  color  is  flesh 
cream  with  a  shell-pink  center.  It  must  not  be  con- 
founded with  the  dwarf  Polyantha  of  the  same  name. 
It  may  be  expected  to  bloom  splendidly  in  the  spring, 
quite  well  in  summer,  and  also  in  autumn.  There 
are  a  few  other  climbing  Polyanthas  already  cata- 
logued, and  several  new  roses  of  this  class  have  been 
introduced  recently,  the  best  known  being  Miss  G. 
Messman,  a  sport  of  Crimson  Baby  Rambler;  Marie- 
Jeanne,  white;  and  Orleans  Rose  Climbing,  a  sport 
of  the  pink  Polyantha  Orleans  Rose;  but  here  these 
roses  require  protection. 

Another  climbing  Polyantha  which  has  done  well  for  some 
growers  is  Climbing  Clothilde  Soupert.  Unfortunately,  plants 
of  this  variety  have  winter  killed  badly,  but  with  special  winter 
protection  it  should  live  up  to  its  reputation  as  a  constant  bloomer, 
and  south  of  Philadelphia  it  will  do  well.  The  blooms  are  double, 
the  color  silver  flesh  to  shell  pink. 

AMERICAN  PILLAR.  Hybrid  Polyantha.  Conard, 
1909.  Large  clusters;  dark  pink  with  a  white  center 
and  yellow  stamens.  Very  large,  single.  Similar  to 
Evergreen  Gem.  Foliage  lasts  quite  well. 

123 


OUTDOOR  ROSE  GROWING 

AVIATEUR  BLERIOT.  Hybrid  Wichuraiana;  Fauque 
et  Fils,  1910.  Clusters;  saffron  yellow,  center 
golden  yellow.  Foliage  lasts  quite  well. 

DOROTHY  PERKINS.  Hybrid  Wichuraiana.  Per- 
kins ,1902.  Trusses,  single,  light  pink.  Foliage  lost 
quite  early. 

ELIZA  ROBICHON.  Hybrid  Wichuraiana.  Barbier, 
1901.  Trusses,  single,  rose,  shaded  old  gold.  Espe- 
cially good  for  covering  banks.  Holds  foliage  well. 

EVANGELINE.  Hybrid  Wichuraiana.  Walsh,  1907. 
Single,  white,  tips  of  petals  carmine  pink. 

EXCELSA.  Hybrid  Wichuraiana.  Walsh,  1909. 
Trusses,  double,  brilliant  scarlet.  Crimson  Rambler 
with  good  foliage,  which  lasts  especially  well.  Bloom 
of  Troubadour  almost  identical  with  Excelsa.  The 
best  red  climber  of  the  class. 

GARDENIA.  Hybrid  Wichuraiana.  Manda,  1899. 
Clusters,  bright  yellow,  paler  as  flowers  expand;  very 
pretty  in  bud  form.  Foliage  very  good  and  lasts  well. 
Do  not  confound  it  with  Gardenia  of  Soupert  & 
Notting,  which  is  inferior. 

GOLDFINCH.  Hybrid  Polyantha.  Paul  &  Son. 
Pale  orange,  changing  to  white;  semi-double,  trusses. 
Reported  stronger  hi  the  extreme  North  than  the 
Hybrid  Wichuraianas. 

HIAWATHA.  Hybrid  Polyantha.  Walsh,  1905. 
Single,  crimson,  center  pure  white  to  cream.  Loses 
foliage  early. 

124 


FIG.  16 
MOONLIGHT,  TWO  YEARS  OLD 

Showing  dwarf  climbing  habit  and  scattering  blooms.     Picture  taken  in 
September 


Fio.  17 
TAUSENDSCHON,  AS  GROWN  IN  CONNECTICUT 

Photograph  by  courtesy  of  A.  N.  Pierson,  Incorporated 


CLIMBERS 

JEAN  GIEIN.  Hybrid  Wichuraiana.  Description 
given  by  Admiral  Ward,  as  grown  on  Long  Island. 
Absolutely  hardy  as  a  climber;  almost  the  same  as 
Dorothy  Perkins,  and  in  the  fall  has  a  second  bloom- 
ing period,  when  it  gives  approximately  half  the  num- 
ber of  blooms  produced  in  the  spring.  Foliage  lasts 
quite  well. 

SILVER  MOON.  Said  to  be  a  cross  between  Rosa 
Wichuraiana  X  Cherokee.  Extra  large,  single,  silver 
white  with  golden  yellow  stamens,  of  remarkably 
strong  growth;  very  distinct.  Foliage  lasts  well. 

TAUSENDSCHON.  Hybrid  Polyantha.  Soft  pink; 
large  clusters;  foliage  lasts  fairly  well.  Reported 
hardier  in  the  North  than  the  Hybrid  Wichuraianas. 

VEILCHENBLAU.  Hybrid  Polyantha.  Schmidt, 
1909.  Lilac  changing  to  amethyst  and  steel  blue; 
medium  size;  produced  in  large  clusters;  lower  foliage 
lost  early. 

The  greatest  development  in  climbers,  if  the  catalogue  descrip- 
tions may  be  relied  upon,  are  the  following  new  additions,  brought 
out  in  1913-14-15,  but  not  yet  thoroughly  tested: 

LE  MEXIQUE,  Wichuraiana;  introduced  by  Schwartz  in  1913, 
color  "pale  silvery  rose;  clusters";  has  been  tested  in  this  country 
and  one  grower  claims  that  it  gives  scattering  blooms  until  fall. 

MOONLIGHT  AND  DAN.E,  introduced  by  Reverend  J.  H.  Pemberton 
hi  1914,  are  listed  as  Hybrid  Teas  and  catalogued  as  continual 
bloomers  from  June  until  autumn.  The  growth  is  similar  to  a 
Wichuraiana,  but  less  vigorous;  they  bloom  in  clusters,  and  both 
give  scattering  blooms  through  the  entire  season,  the  last  one  being 
noted  in  November.  Moonlight  flowers  on  new  wood;  Danse  on 
that  of  the  previous  year. 

In  1914  Pemberton  introduced  three  other  Ramblers,  for  all  of 
which  perpetual  blooming  is  claimed.  Their  blooms  in  the  first 
year  are  scattering;  the  growth  is  only  fair;  and  they  require  winter 
protection. 

CERES Blush,  with  yellow  shading. 

GALATEA Stone  color. 

WINTER  CHEER Crimson. 

125 


OUTDOOR  ROSE  GROWING 

In  1915  William  Paul  &  Son  brought  out  CORDELIA,  which  they 
claim  is  a  perpetual  flowering  climbing  rose.  Buds^coppery  yellow, 
changing  to  lemon  yellow;  produced  in  clusters.  This  variety  blooms 
on  wood  of  the  previous  year's  growth,  and  winter  kills  badly  here. 

M.  Leenders  &  Company,  of  Holland,  list  an  ever-blooming 
climbing  rose  in  BLANCHE  FEOWEIN;  color  copper  overlaid  with 
golden  yellow;  but  so  far  this  has  only  shown  semi-climbing  growth. 

P.  Lambert  also  catalogues  several  ever-blooming  climbers;  and 
in  Hugh  Dickson's  1916-17  catalogue,  the  Wichuraiana,  Bouquet 
Rose — color  vivid  rose  pink  changing  to  lilac  white — is  noted  as 
perpetual  flowering. 

It  would  seem  from  these  introductions  that  the  long-looked-for 
hardy  ever-blooming  climbing  rose  may  at  least  be  a  reality,  but 
that  the  growth  will  be  restricted. 

Reports  are  constantly  made  that  various  hardy  climbing  roses 
have  given  summer  and  fall  bloom.  As  a  rule,  while  these  reports 
are  no  doubt  true,  other  growers  cannot  depend  upon  them  as  they 
are  very  often  exceptional  cases. 

For  climates  in  which  there  is  little  or  no  frost 
the  following  climbers  are  recommended.  With  the 
exception  of  Shower  of  Gold,  which  is  a  Hybrid  Wich- 
uraiana, they  may  be  expected  to  give  blooms  quite 
well  through  the  season. 

ALISTER  STELLA  GRAY  (Noisette).  A.  H.  Gray,  1894.  Deep 
yellow  with  lighter  edges;  flowers  in  clusters. 

BELLE  LYONNAISE  (Tea).    Levet,  1869.    Canary  yellow. 

CELINE  FORESTIER  (Noisette).  Trouillard,  1842.  Fairly  free 
flowering;  old  gold. 

CLOTH  OF  GOLD  (Noisette).  Coquereau,  1843.  Sulphur  yellow, 
deeper  center;  large  double. 

GLOIRE  DE  DIJON  (Tea).  Jacotot,  1853.  Buff,  orange  center; 
large  and  double.  Perhaps  the  hardiest  of  the  Tea  climbers,  but 
giving  more  bloom  than  the  Hybrid  Tea  Sports,  a  two-year-old 
plant  having  two  dozen  blooms  the  first  week  of  November,  1916. 
Should  be  budded  on  Multiflora,  and  grown  on  a  south  wall,  in  the 
Middle  Atlantic  States,  for  the  best  results. 

MARECHAL  NIEL  (Noisette).  Pradel,  1864.  Bright  rich  golden 
yellow;  large,  full,  fine  form. 

MADAME  ALFRED  CARRIERS  (Hybrid  Noisette).  Schwartz,  1879. 
Pure  white,  very  free;  a  good  pillar  rose. 

126 


CLIMBERS 

W.  A.  RICHARDSON  (Noisette).  Ducher,  1878.  Very  deep 
orange-yellow;  small,  very  showy  and  distinct. 

SHOWER  OP  GOLD.  Hybrid  Wichuraiana.  Paul  and  Son,  1910. 
Light  cream  to  pale  yellow;  spring  only;  foliage  fair. 

In  addition  to  the  above,  the  Banksian  and  Chero- 
kee roses  give  fine  results  for  this  section,  and  with 
some  growers  Pink  Cherokee  and  Ramona  are 
quoted  as  giving  scattering  blooms  through  a  long 
period. 

In  the  locality  of  Philadelphia  for  dwarf  climbing 
bloom  which  may  be  depended  upon,  Gruss  an  Tep- 
litz  budded  on  Multiflora  is  suggested.  This  rose 
grows  fully  eight  feet  high  without  protection  and 
gives  a  quantity  of  bloom  throughout  the  season. 
In  this  connection,  there  is  a  climbing  sport  of  Gruss 
an  Teplitz  on  the  market,  but  this  has  not  been  suc- 
cessful, as  during  the  second  year  on  two  plants,  less 
than  a  dozen  blooms  appeared  during  the  season. 

Among  the  white  roses,  Furstin  von  Pless  is  a 
strong  growing  Hybrid  Tea  which  grows  to  a  height 
of  eight  feet  and  gives  bloom  throughout  the  spring, 
summer  and  autumn.  It  is  not  quite  as  hardy  as 
Teplitz,  but  even  with  some  winter  killing  it  will 
grow  to  the  height  given  by  the  end  of  the  season, 
and  if  thoroughly  protected  should  do  better. 

Among  the  pink  roses,  Lady  Ursula  on  the  Multi- 
flora gives  a  quantity  of  bloom  throughout  the  entire 

season  and  is  nearly  as  hardy  as  Teplitz,  although 

127 


OUTDOORTROSE  GROWING 

it  will  not  grow  to  more  than  five  feet  in  height  if  cut 
back;  nevertheless,  if  not  cut  back  and  protected, 
Lady  Ursula  makes  a  very  much  better  bloomer  as 
a  semi-climber  than  any  of  the  Hybrid  Tea  sports. 

Unfortunately,  there  is  no  yellow  rose  with  the 
qualities  of  the  three  just  given,  although  Harry  Kirk 
more  nearly  approaches  the  mark. 

These  roses  may  also  be  recommended  for  hedges 
in  sections  with  the  same  winter  temperature  as 
Philadelphia.  Farther  south  and  on  the  Pacific 
Coast  many  other  of  the  strong  growing  Hybrid 
Teas,  such  as  Madame  Caroline  Testout,  do  well. 
For  the  far  north  Rugosas  make  very  effective  hedges, 
are  absolutely  hardy,  and  give  considerable  fall  bloom. 

PLANTING  CLIMBERS 

In  planting  climbers  the  bed  should  be  prepared 
in  exactly  the  same  way  as  for  an  ordinary  bed, 
excepting  that  it  should  be  much  smaller,  but  the 
roots  of  the  climbers  will  naturally  take  up  more 
space  underground  than  the  roots  of  the  dwarf 
bushes,  and  climbers  should  have  a  bed  of  some 
extent.  This  is  particularly  necessary  for  the  Hybrid 
Teas,  Teas  and  Noisettes.  The  bed  should  be  made 
of  the  same  depth  and  drained  as  the  average  rose 
bed  noted  under  " Preparation."  For  each  plant  the 
bed  should  be  at  least  two  feet  wide  and  not  less  than 

four  feet  in  length. 

128 


CLIMBERS 

In  planting  climbers,  especially  the  Hybrid  Teas, 
it  is  hardly  necessary  to  say  that  they  will  not  do 
well  on  the  north  side  of  any  arbor  or  wall.  Roses 
must  have  the  sun  in  order  to  flourish  and,  besides, 
many  climbers  on  a  north  wall  would  be  whiter 
killed  to  a  very  great  degree.  It  would  be  easy  in 
the  case  of  all  rustic  benches,  with  rustic  tops  and 
arbors  runrnng  east  and  west,  to  plant  roses  on  their 
southern,  eastern  and  western  sides  and  secure  plants 
which  would  entirely  cover  the  structures.  For  an 
ordinary  six-foot  bench  with  a  rustic  top  the  same 
length,  one  good  climbing  rose  planted  on  the  south- 
ern side  would  be  sufficient  to  cover  the  entire  struct- 
ure. The  very  hardiest  climbers  would  make  a 
brave  effort  to  do  well  on  a  north  wall,  but  unless 
this  is  the  only  available  space  we  would  not  advise 
its  use.  There  is  one  exception  to  north  wall  plant- 
ing, as  explained  later. 

PRUNING  CLIMBERS 

HYBRID  WICHURAIANAS  AND  HYBRID  POLY- 
ANTHAS.  About  the  last  of  July  or  the  first  of 
August,  when  the  blooming  season  is  over,  it  is 
well  to  cut  out  some  of  the  oldest  and  weakest  canes; 
this  gives  new  wood  a  better  opportunity  to  develop 
and  it  becomes  the  flowering  wood  of  the  following 
season.  The  older  wood  blooms  to  some  extent  but 
not  as  well  as  the  growth  of  the  previous  year.  After 

129 


OUTDOOR  ROSE  GROWING 

this  August  pruning  it  will  hardly  be  necessary  in  the 
following  spring  to  do  more  than  cut  out  the  dead 
wood  and  keep  the  plant  within  the  prescribed 
bounds,  which  may  be  determined  by  the  arbor  or 
trellis  on  which  it  is  grown.  The  new  canes  springing 
from  the  base  which  have  grown  during  the  previous 
season  should  remain  untouched,  excepting  that  the 
ends  or  tops  of  the  longest  should  be  somewhat  short- 
ened. The  same  process  used  in  pruning  recently 
planted  Hybrid  Teas  applies  in  the  case  of  newly- 
planted  climbers,  and  especially  weaker-growing 
varieties  planted  the  previous  autumn,  viz.,  pruning 
back  " wickedly"  in  the  spring  to  a  few  eyes.  This 
gives  the  roots  less  work  to  do  and  insures  good 
growth  for  the  following  year.  It  gives  no  chance 
for  flowers  during  the  first  summer,  but  at  best  the 
blooms  on  a  newly-planted  climber  would  be  poor; 
the  great  point  is  that  such  cutting  back  gives  the 
plant  a  better  chance  to  become  established  and  se- 
cures good  flowering  wood  the  second  year  and  there- 
after. But,  if  you  insist  upon  trying  for  some  flowers 
the  first  summer  on  newly-planted  stock,  be  sure 
that  such  climbers  as  you  do  not  cut  back  have  well- 
established  root  systems  with  fibrous  feeding  roots 
and  that  they  were  planted  the  previous  autumn, 
their  root  systems  having  been  noted  at  that  time. 
Under  no  circumstances  should  the  canes  remain 

130 


CLIMBERS 

uncut  oiTany  Imported  climbers  of  winter  or  early 
spring  planting,  and  the  course  above  suggested 
cannot  be  recommended,  though  if  it  succeed  with 
any  varieties  it  should  do  so  with  the  Wichuraiana 
or  Polyanthas.  With  two-  and  three-year-old  dor- 
mant American  field-grown  plants  there  is  an  even 
chance  of  success.  Most  certainly  it  would  be  well  to 
give  such  plants  special  care,  for  example,  the  use  of 
liquid  manure  as  suggested  hi  " Cultivation." 

It  is  not  necessary  except  in  the  extreme  North 
to  give  winter  protection  to  the  canes  of  the  hardy 
climbers;  however,  if  they  die  back,  bend  them  down 
to  the  ground  hi  the  future  and  cover  with  water- 
proof building  paper  and  earth  before  the  severe 
frosts  set  in. 

In  "Roses  and  Rose  Growing,"*  Miss  Kingsley 
suggests  for  special  effect  cutting  out  all  the  old  wood 
on  Wichuraiana  and  training  the  pliant,  new  canes 
over  wire  frames  in  the  shape  of  arches.  Undoubt- 
edly very  pretty  effects  could  be  obtained  by  this 
method.  She  also  states  that  the  Banksias,  some 
of  the  Multifloras,  and  one  Noisette,  Fortune's  Yel- 
low, "only  flower  on  the  sub-laterals,  i.  e.,  on  wood 
three  years  old."  It  will  be  readily  understood  how 
easily  the  above-named  climbers  could  be  spoiled 
by  unintelligent  pruning. 

*  "Roses  and  Rose  Growing,"  by  ROSE  G.  KINGSLEY  (The  Mac- 
millan  Co.). 

131 


OUTDOOR  ROSE  GROWING 

Hybrid  Tea  and  Hybrid  Perpetual  Climbers  (other 
than  sports)  and  tender  Hybrid  Polyantha  Climbers, 
such  as  Cecile  Brunner,  should  be  treated  on  some- 
what the  same  principle  as  the  Wichuraiana  Climbers. 
The  difference  is  that  then*  wood  winter  kills  more 
easily,  and  therefore  no  thinning  out  of  old  canes 
should  be  done  before  spring,  and  then  only  when  such 
canes  crowd  the  new  growths.  The  laterals  on  main 
canes  should  be  cut  back  to  from  two  to  four  eyes. 

Climbing  sports  of  dwarf  roses,  Tea  Climbers  and 
Noisettes  should  be  pruned  more  sparingly.  Old 
canes  should  only  be  removed  as  they  become  profit- 
less, laterals  but  slightly  shortened  unless  they  are 
crowded.  In  the  case  of  all  climbers  better  results 
will  be  obtained  if  they  are  carefully  and  system- 
atically trained  and  fastened  in  place.  Most  Hybrid 
Tea  Climbers,  Noisettes,  and  all  the  Teas  need  winter 
protection,  as  above  described. 

For  all  climbers,  on  account  of  the  greater  evapo- 
ration due  to  their  larger  growth,  much  more  water 
is  necessary  than  for  dwarfs. 

The  peat  moss  mulch,  noted  later,  is  strongly 
recommended. 

In  the  extreme  North  the  summer  thinning  of  the 
wood  of  the  hardy  climbers  is  advocated  by  some 
authorities  so  that  the  canes  left  will  become  thor- 
oughly matured. 

132 


V 
LOCATION  AND  PREPARATION 

EVERY  one  cannot  have  an  ideal  location  for  roses, 
yet  given  enough  sunlight  it  is  astonishing  what  fine 
results  may  be  obtained  hi  a  small  bed  bordering 
on  a  path  or  road  should  no  lawn  space  be  available. 
Too  much  shade  will  not  give  good  results  and  the 
roots  of  trees  are  very  detrimental  to  rcjse  growth. 
Unless  the  trees  overhang  the  beds,  if  you  believe 
your  plants  will  get  direct  sunlight  at  least  half  the 
day — there  being  no  other  place  available — the 
chances  are  that  your  bed  will  succeed,  but  you  must 
protect  the  rose  roots  from  the  roots  of  the  trees. 
As  a  general  rule  a  tree  sends  out  roots  in  a  circum- 
ference the  radius  of  which  equals  its  height,  but  the 
roots  near  the  outer  edge  of  the  circumference  are 
small  and  can  be  cut  without  injury  to  the  tree; 
nevertheless  where  tree  roots  once  grew  they  will 
come  back  again,  and  it  is  imperative  that  the  roses 
be  protected  from  them.  The  simplest  and  cheapest 
way  is  to  line  the  outside  of  your  rose  bed  with 
boards,  but  as  these  rot  it  is  only  a  question  of  time 
before  the  tree  roots  will  again  force  their  way  into 

the  space  reserved  for  the  roses,  so  the  boards  must 

133 


OUTDOOR  ROSE  GROWING 

be  renewed.  The  best  way  is  to  put  in  a  small  wall 
of  concrete  four  inches  in  thickness,  which  will  pro- 
tect the  bed  for  all  time  from  this  interference  of  tree 
roots.  Mr.  E.  M.  Rosenbluth,  of  Wallingford,  Penn- 
sylvania, lines  the  sides  of  his  beds  with  coated  gal- 
vanized iron,  while  Mr.  Maurice  Fuld,  of  New  York, 
suggests  lime  used  as  a  concrete  wall,  not  only  to 
protect  from  roots,  but  also  to  give  lime  to  the  soil. 

Providing  the  roses  get  at  least  half  a  day's  sun- 
light and  the  tree  roots  do  not  interfere,  the  bed  can 
be  successfully  made  as  above  proposed.  The  ideal 
location  is  a  south  to  southeast  exposure,  especially 
with  a  windbreak  on  the  north  and  northwest  sides 
from  which  the  coldest  winter  winds  come.  Wind- 
breaks may  be  hi  the  form  of  trees,  houses,  or  any- 
thing which  will  stop  the  direct  force  of  the  cold, 
bleak  winds.  Roses  will  do  well  even  on  a  north 
slope  if  they  get  the  sun  and  are  properly  cared  for. 
Worse  than  a  north  slope  is  low  land,  which  is  not 
and  cannot  be  easily  drained,  and  where  roses  will 
get  more  late  frost  than  they  will  on  the  exposed 
hillside. 

Having  looked  over  the  ground  and  selected,  hi 
accordance  with  the  general  working  directions  given 
above,  the  most  suitable  place  for  the  roses,  con- 
sider next  the  shape  of  the  bed,  the  extent  of  space 

to  be  given  to  it  and  the  number  of  plants  it  will 

134 


LOCATION  AND  PREPARATION 

accommodate.  Unless  formal  or  landscape  gardening 
is  desired  the  most  practical  form  of  bed  for  roses 
is  one  three  to  three  and  a  half  feet  wide,  as  explained 
under  planting,  and  long  enough  to  accommodate 
the  number  of  plants  desired  when  they  are  spaced 
at  an  average  distance  of  twenty  niches,  center  to 
center.*  Some  of  the  weaker  growing  roses  will  do 
better  if  set  only  fifteen  inches  apart,  while  the 
stronger  growing  varieties  should  be  placed  as  far 
apart  as  three  feet;  but  for  a  working  rule,  unless 
you  expect  to  order  only  the  very  largest  roses,  an 
allowance  of  twenty  inches  will  be  found  to  give 
roughly  the  number  of  plants  which  the  bed  will 
hold.  On  Multiflora  allow  a  trifle  more. 

Having  decided  on  the  number  of  plants,  consider 
what  steps  are  necessary  to  make  the  beds  properly 
and  have  them  in  absolute  readiness  for  the  arrival 
of  the  plants.  Then  proceed  with  the  actual  ordering 
of  the  varieties,  instructions  for  which  will  be  found 
in  the  following  chapter.  The  beds  should  be  made 
some  weeks  before  planting  to  allow  for  settling 
and  if  they  should  have  settled  too  much  below  the 
ground  level  additional  soil  may  be  added,  although 
to  conserve  moisture  the  actual  finished  level  of  the 

*  "Pictorial  Practical  Rose  Growing,"  by  Wright,  gives  four  very 
clever  sketches  for  formal  ro^e  gardens.  "  Gardens  for  Small  Country 
Houses,"  by  Gertrude  Jekyll  and  Lawrence  Weaver,  would  be  a 
great  help  to  any  one  desiring  to  do  more  than  lay  out  a  few  beds. 

135 


OUTDOOR  ROSE  GROWING 

bed  should  be  two  inches  below  the  surface  of  the 
adjacent  ground. 

The  matter  of  soil,  or  of  the  best  composition  of 
soil,  for  the  rose  bed  is  a  very  interesting  one,  and 
when  a  person  wishes  to  go  into  rose  growing  on  a 
large  scale,  beds  should  be  constructed  for  each  par- 
ticular land  of  rose. 

Pemberton  goes  most  thoroughly  into  this  subject 
of  soils;  any  one  contemplating  the  planting  of  a 
large  collection  of  roses  will  do  well  to  study  his  chap- 
ter on  soils.  He  advocates  for  roses,  where  autumn 
blooms  are  desired,  from  forty  to  seventy  per  cent, 
of  clay  hi  the  bed,  and  this  statement  of  his  has  been 
borne  out  by  our  experiments  with  different  soils. 

The  most  complete  and  technical  book  on  this 
subject  which  we  have  found  is:  " Soils, "  Lyon  and 
Fippin;  L.  H.  Bailey,  editor. 

A  rule  which  seems  to  be  endorsed  by  all  rosarians 
is  that  Hybrid  Perpetuals  and  the  stronger  Hybrid 
Teas  do  better  in  clay,  and  the  weaker  Hybrid  Teas 
and  Teas  are  more  certain  to  thrive  in  soil  containing 
some  sand. 

Until  his  death,  the  late  Mr.  Frederick  W.  Taylor, 
of  Philadelphia,  conducted  a  great  many  interesting 
and  exhaustive  experiments  with  different  kinds  of 
soils,  particularly  in  relation  to  the  growing  of  grass 
but  to  some  extent  hi  testing  roses.  Some  of  his 

136 


HUGO  ROLLER 

(Description  page  83) 


LOCATION  AND  PREPARATION 

beds  have  been  made  up  in  most  complicated  and 
expensive  ways,  and  while  good  results  have  been 
secured,  nevertheless,  from  careful  comparison  be- 
tween his  roses  and  those  in  our  ordinary  beds,  we 
cannot  see  enough  advantage  gained  to  warrant  our 
recommending  his  beds  for  general  use,  primarily 
on  account  of  the  expense  and  trouble  involved  in 
their  construction.  He  explained  in  '  'Country  Life  in 
America"  his  system  of  preparation  for  the  growing 
of  grass  and  golf  greens.  His  experiments  with  roses 
were  on  the  same  lines,  except  that  the  germinating 
and  food  layers  used  for  the  seed  in  the  growing  of 
grass  were  not  necessary  in  the  case  of  the  roses. 
The  bed  designed  for  grass  was  used  for  the  roses 
except  the  top  eight  inches,  which  were  composed  of 
a  blanket  layer  usually  of  clay  and  loam,  sometimes 
of  Jersey  peat. 

This  special  bed  has  given  the  best  results  with 
roses  such  as  Lyon,  which  loses  its  leaves  early,  and 
also  with  very  weak  growing  roses  like  Hugo  Roller. 
Collectors  who  wish  to  grow  such  roses  to  their  great- 
est beauty  should  make  beds  of  this  description.  It 
is  not  well,  however,  for  growers  to  use  these  beds 
without  great  care,  because  there  are  a  number  of 
varieties  which  do  not  thrive  in  them  as  well  as  in 
the  ordinary  beds.  Just  as  La  France  needs  the  poor- 
est land  of  soil  in  which  to  be  grown  to  perfection, 

137 


OUTDOOR  ROSE  GROWING 

so  many  other  roses  would  tend  to  grow  wood  and 
not  produce  bloom  if  placed  in  beds  of  this  character. 
With  good  all-round  roses  the  growth  during  the  first 
year  hi  the  special  beds  exceeds  that  in  the  regular 
bed,  but  after  the  second  year  the  difference  is  less 
marked  and  hi  many  cases  the  blooming  qualities 
are  better  in  the  regular  bed.  No  doubt  some  one 
will  eventually  discover  the  best  beds  for  each  given 
type  of  rose,  changes  hi  the  beds  being  made  hi 
accordance  with  the  different  habits  of  growth  of  the 
plants.  When  these  new  beds  are  developed  it  is 
hoped  that  their  originators  will  bring  them  before 
the  rose  growing  public  and  supply  a  long-felt  want. 
It  is  our  opinion  that  for  the  average  rose  lover  who 
wants  to  grow  his  few  dozen  plants,  such  experiments, 
while  interesting,  would  not  as  yet  be  practical  and 
would  certainly  be  very  expensive.  It  is  far  better 
to  order  the  best  roses  as  carefully  tested  in  the  reg- 
ular beds,  and  to  construct  beds  from  which  good 
all-round  and  practical  results  may  be  obtained  at 
a  moderate  cost.  There  is,  however,  one  new  feature 
of  Mr.  Taylor's  experiments  which  seems  very  prac- 
tical and  useful  and  is  so  simple  that  we  take  great 
pleasure  (with  his  permission)  hi  recommending  it 
for  rose  beds,  i.e.,  the  covering  of  the  bed  hi  the  spring 
with  a  blanket  of  peat  moss.  This  is  a  non  conductor 
of  heat  and  cold,  and  will  not  only  keep  the  moisture 

138 


LOCATION  AND  PREPARATION 

in  the  ground  by  protecting  it  from  the  sun's  absorb- 
ing rays  but  also  greatly  reduce  the  actual  tempera- 
ture of  the  bed. 

In  July  and  August  the  ground  temperature  of 
beds  covered  with  this  mulch  is  several  degrees  lower 
than  adjacent  beds.  Later,  when  the  average  ground 
temperature  is  below  seventy,  there  is  little  it  any 
difference.  In  addition  to  this  it  prevents  some  seeds 
of  weeds  from  germinating,  so  that  this  cover  prac- 
tically eliminates  constant  weeding.  It  also  gives 
the  beds  a  neat  and  most  attractive  appearance. 
The  best  tune  to  put  on  this  peat  moss  is  when  the 
flower  buds  commence  to  form,  except  hi  very  cool 
damp  seasons,  when  it  should  be  withheld  until  the 
ground  surface  becomes  dried. 

This  peat  moss  may  be  secured  from  any  nursery, 
and  it  should  be  ground  fine  by  a  machine,  then 
sprinkled  with  water  before  it  is  placed  on  the  beds, 
to  keep  it  from  blowing  about.  By  putting  on  a  six- 
inch  blanket  you  will  secure  the  finished  depth 
required  of  from  three  to  four  niches. 

In  order  to  avoid  breaking  the  rose  canes  the  safest 
way  to  pack  the  moss  properly  into  place  is  to 
trample  on  it  carefully.  It  will  be  found  that  the 
roses  so  covered  will  give  bloom  about  as  early  as 
plants  left  unprotected  by  moss,  and  during  the 
hottest  weather  the  covered  plants  will  thrive  to  a 

139 


OUTDOOR  ROSE  GROWING 

greater  degree,  while  the  moss  renders  watering  less 
necessary,  and  thereby  somewhat  prevents  the  likeli- 
hood of  mildew. 

The  beds  tested  with  and  without  moss  show  that 
the  covered  plants  bloom  only  one  day  later,  but 
hold  the  bloom  much  longer. 

In  some  of  our  beds  we  are  putting  a  four-inch 
layer  of  peat  moss  at  each  side  of  the  bed  and  at  the 
ends,  which  should  still  further  act  in  keeping  the 
temperature  low.  We  do  not  think  this  necessary, 
but  in  districts  where  dry,  hot  weather  of  long  dura- 
tion occurs,  and  in  seashore  planting,  where  soil 
must  be  imported,  and  where  the  existing  extremely 
sandy  soil  surrounding  the  rose  bed  becomes  very 
hot,  such  side  protection  should  be  of  great  benefit. 
The  moss  should  go  from  the  surface  to  the  bottom 
of  the  bed  and  make  a  four-inch  wall  between  the 
bed  and  the  hotter  ground  around  it.  Where  cement 
or  boards  have  been  used  to  keep  out  tree  roots, 
this  side  protection  is,  of  course,  unnecessary. 

Under  normal  conditions  peat  moss  is  worth  about 
fourteen  dollars  a  ton  by  the  carload  and  one  ton  will 
cover  over  one  hundred  yards  of  rose  beds,  averaging 
three  and  one-half  feet  in  width,  the  finished  level  of 
the  moss  being  over  three  inches;  in  other  words, 
two  hundred  pounds,  at  a  cost  of  less  than  two  dollars, 

would  protect  ten  yards  of  rose  bed,  or  about  forty 

140 


LOCATION  AND  PREPARATION 

plants.  The  hundred-pound  price  is  a  little  more 
expensive  than  the  carload  rate.  Since  the  European 
War  the  cost  of  peat  moss  has  naturally  increased. 
However,  moss  is  being  imported  and,  as  far  as  can 
be  discovered  without  an  actual  test,  is  practically 
the  same.  In  England,  one  of  the  best  growers, 
Herbert  L.  Wettern,  who  won  the  Amateur  Cham- 
pionship of  England,  for  exhibition  and  decorative 
roses,  in  1915  and  1916,  uses  a  mulch  of  spent  hops 
on  his  beds.  This  may  be  secured  from  any  brewery, 
usually  for  the  cost  of  hauling,  or  for  fifty  cents  a  ton. 
Tested  this  year,  it  has  proved  a  fan*  substitute  for 
peat  moss;  the  temperature  of  the  beds  covered  with 
it  has  been  about  the  same  as  other  beds  covered 
with  moss,  but  it  does  not  conserve  moisture  as  well 
as  the  old  mulch.  It  would  seem  that  if  a  deeper 
mulch  of  spent  hops  was  put  on,  it  would  be  prac- 
tically as  good  as  moss.  However,  roses  which  lose 
their  foliage  early  do  better  with  the  moss.  Dr. 
Lewis  Rumford,  of  Wilmington,  Delaware,  advocates 
the  use  of  cut  grass  on  beds  in  summer  to  protect 
them  from  heat;  where  moss  or  hops  are  not  used 
this  would  undoubtedly  be  of  value. 

To  return  to  the  composition  of  the  bed  itself. 
We  have  found  that  there  are  two  most  important 
things  necessary  to  insure  success:  First,  the  bed 
must  underdrain,  to  get  rid  of  any  great  surplus  of 

141 


OUTDOOR  ROSE  GROWING 

water,  so  that  in  very  damp  seasons  the  rose  roots 
will  not  be  too  wet;  second,  the  bed  must,  on  the 
other  hand,  retain  moisture  to  a  certain  extent  so 
that  in  very  dry  seasons  the  roots  will  not  be  too 
dry.  To  obtain  the  drainage  it  is  necessary  in  soil 
which  is  greatly  composed  of  clay  to  underdrain  the 
beds  by  a  layer  of  crushed  stone;  where  the  soil  is 
more  open,  gravelly  or  sandy,  this  is  not  needed. 
Under  very  bad  conditions  tile  should  be  used,  but 
never  to  the  extent  of  draining  all  the  moisture  away. 
The  bed  should  be  made  two  and  one-half  feet  in 
depth  if  underdrainage  is  necessary,  with  about  six 
inches  of  crushed  or  broken  stone  put  in  the  bottom; 
small  crushed  stone  lies  evenly,  and  the  earth  does 
not  sift  through  it  enough  to  clog  the  drainage. 
Large  or  uneven  stone  should  be  covered  by  some- 
thing to  keep  the  earth  from  sifting  through.  If 
the  bed  is  made  in  a  lawn  the  turf  cut  from  the  sur- 
face and  turned  upside  down  is  a  good  expedient, 
or  a  couple  of  inches  of  fine  cinders  will  be  found  all 
that  is  required.  Fine  stone  is  really  the  best.  Of 
course,  for  a  location  which  is  gravelly  or  sandy,  this 
stone  will  not  be  needed  and  a  depth  of  two  feet  will 
be  sufficient. 

Mr.  E.  M.  Rosenbluth,  of  Wallingford,  Pennsyl- 
vania, secures  better  drainage  for  his  roses  by  dyna- 
miting the  foundation  of  his  beds. 

142 


LOCATION  AND  PREPARATION 

We  will  now  consider  that  we  have  dug  a  trench, 
the  bottom  either  covered  or  not  covered  with  stone 
to  the  depth  of  six  inches,  but  which  is  now  two  feet 
from  the  ground  level.  It  should  be  noted  that  in 
digging  this  trench  for  the  bed  the  top  soil  should 
be  placed  in  one  pile  and  the  subsoil  in  another. 
The  top  soil  is  the  soil  on  the  surface,  which  runs  to 
different  depths,  usually  about  six  inches,  and  which 
is  composed  for  the  most  part  of  decayed  vegetation 
from  the  roots  of  many  generations  of  grasses,  etc. 
It  contains  a  percentage  of  humus  and  is,  therefore, 
very  valuable  as  food  to  the  rose  roots.  Usually  it 
is  darker  hi  color  than  the  subsoil  and  can  easily  be 
noted.  In  soils  where  there  is  a  large  percentage  of 
clay  or  loam  it  will  not  be  necessary  to  use  subsoil 
other  than  that  taken  from  the  trench,  as  far  as  one- 
third  of  the  mixture  to  be  put  back  into  the  bed  is 
concerned;  but  where  soil  is  very  gravelly  or  sandy 
it  would  be  best  to  secure  some  heavy  loam  or  clay 
to  make  the  proper  kind  of  bed.  The  finished  bed 
should  be  one-third  top  soil,  one-third  heavy  clay 
subsoil,  and  one-third  cow  manure.  There  will  not 
be  enough  top  soil  taken  from  the  trench  to  supply 
the  one-third  necessary  for  the  bed,  and  more  must 
be  provided. 

In  localities  where  there  is  no  heavy  clay  or  loam 

there  will  often  be  found  heavy,  dark  soil  which  con- 

143 


OUTDOOR  ROSE  GROWING 

tains  decayed  leaves,  roots,  etc.,  which  is  a  very  good 
substitute.  Subsoil  containing  sand  in  any  quantity 
should  have  loam  and  clay  added  and  top  soil  con- 
taining much  sand  should  have  other  top  soil  added. 
Reverting  to  what  has  been  said  before,  and  to  make 
the  matter  perfectly  clear,  it  will  be  remembered  that 
the  soil  should  be  heavy  enough  to  hold  moisture, 
be  rich  enough  for  sustenance,  and  yet  must  drain 
at  the  bottom. 

The  ideal  way  to  mix  the  top  soil,  clay  and  manure 
in  three  equal  parts  would  be  by  machine,  but  for 
all  practical  purposes  we  have  found  the  following 
procedure  to  be  all  that  is  necessary:  Cover  the 
bottom  of  the  trench  with  a  given  number  of  wheel- 
barrow loads  of  the  rich,  darker  top  soil,  then  add 
the  same  number  of  loads  of  the  lighter,  clayey  sub- 
soil, and  then  an  equal  number  of  loads  of  manure, 
after  which  the  whole  bed  should  be  forked  together 
thoroughly  to  mix  the  ingredients.  After  this  first 
layer  is  thoroughly  mixed,  proceed  as  above  with  the 
wheelbarrow  loads  of  each  ingredient  and  mix  again. 
After  each  mixing  the  bed  should  be  thoroughly 
rammed,  otherwise  it  will  settle  too  much  after  it  is 
finished. 

In  addition  to  the  above,  we  would  advocate  add- 
ing, for  every  twenty-five  feet  of  bed,  the  following: 
One  bucket  of  lime,  evenly  distributed,  to  be  added 

144 


LOCATION  AND  PREPARATION 

after  the  first  layer  is  mixed,  and  one  bucket  of  bone 
meal,  evenly  distributed,  to  be  added  before  the  last 
layer  is  put  in. 

When  making  beds  for  autumn  planting  it  would 
be  well  to  realize  that  very  often  roses  imported 
from  the  other  side  are  delayed.  The  season  may 
be  very  late  with  the  European  growers,  and  the 
leaves  not  fall  from  the  plants  until  after  our  heavy 
frosts  (which  may  be  early  ones)  have  frozen  the 
ground.  For  this  reason,  when  the  beds  are  made 
the  ground  conditions  must  be  carefully  watched, 
and  if  frost  appears  they  should  be  covered, with  a 
heavy  litter.  This  will  usually  protect  the  ground 
so  that  if  the  roses  do  not  arrive  until  well  into  the 
autumn  they  may  still  be  planted.  We  have  suc- 
cessfully planted  roses  after  hard  freezing  and  six 
inches  of  snow  in  December,  our  beds  having  been 
covered  with  a  heavy  litter  before  the  snow  fell. 
When  planting  we  removed  snow  and  litter  and  the 
following  year  our  roses  did  well. 


VI 
ORDERING 

HAVING  gone  carefully  over  the  chapter  on  "Varie- 
ties" and  considered  the  lists  of  roses,  the  reader  will 
be  ready  to  order  his  plants.  It  is  believed  that  the 
suggestions  hereinafter  given  will  aid  in  avoiding 
many  of  the  errors  and  disappointments  usually  con- 
nected with  this  necessary  work. 

Ordering  is  indeed  one  of  the  most  important 
features  to  be  considered;  when  properly  done  it 
insures  success,  and  when  improperly  done  it  is  sure 
to  bring  disappointment.  An  understanding  of  the 
conditions  which  beset  all  nurserymen  would  do 
much  to  help.  The  main  trouble  is  that  the  average 
man  does  not  properly  specify  just  what  he  wants 
and  when  he  wants  it,  and  he  does  not  consider 
substitution. 

The  nurseryman  receives  his  greatest  number  of 
orders  in  the  spring  and  autumn  when  he  and  his 
entire  force  are  overworked.  He  has  only  so  many 
varieties  and  only  so  many  plants  of  each,  and  his 
roses  are  hi  a  certain  condition,  which  may  or  may  not 
be  good.  Therefore,  theman  who  sends  his  order  early, 
specifying  exactly  what  he  wants,  stands  the  best 

146 


ORDERING 

chance  of  securing  what  he  desires.  Later  orders, 
unless  very  specific,  naturally  are  filled  from  what 
stock  is  left,  not  always  with  what  was  desired,  and 
the  fault  does  not  rest  with  the  nurseryman.  If  the 
order  is  properly  made  out  and  request  is  made  for 
its  immediate  filling,  and  the  nurseryman  who  re- 
ceives the  order  advises  that  he  is  unable  to  ship, 
then  the  purchaser  has  an  opportunity  to  place  his 
request  elsewhere;  but  if  the  order  is  not  properly 
made  out  and  does  not  specify  regarding  substitu- 
tions the  shipment  may  not  be  satisfactory. 

In  ordering  roses  the  following  requisites  should 
be  specified:  Field-grown,  two-year-old  stock,  or  if 
possible,  three-year-old  stock;  budded  stock,  not 
grafted  or  own-root  roses,  except  hi  the  case  of  the 
most  vigorous  varieties;  dormant  stock.  In  addi- 
tion instructions  should  be  given  for  substitutions. 

Ordinarily  dormant  roses  are  much  better  for 
either  spring  or  autumn  delivery,  but  if  roses  are 
ordered  after  the  growing  season  has  started  it  is 
impossible  to  get  dormant  plants.  In  our  opinion 
plants  which  have  started  growth  are  uncertain  but 
with  care  will  often  do  well. 
.If  the  ordering  is  done  in  the  fall  and  the  roses 
are  so  late  in  coming  that,  although  the  beds  have 
been  covered  with  litter,  the  ground  is  frozen  hard 

to  some  depth  and  it  is  impossible  to  plant  them, 

147 


OUTDOOR  ROSE  GROWING 

do  not,  under  any  circumstances,  have  them  kept 
indoors  during  the  whiter,  for  they  will  then  generally 
sprout,  and  if  planted  early,  will  be  set  back  by  the 
late  frosts,  or  if  kept  until  later  will  be  set  back  on 
account  of  their  change  after  growth  has  started. 
It  would  be  wiser  to  heel  the  plants  in  the  open 
ground;  that  is,  dig  a  trench  deep  enough  to  cover 
the  roses  half-way  up  the  canes  and  place  the  plants 
therein,  filling  hi  with  dry  earth. 

As  we  believe  that  the  greater  number  of  budded 
roses  can  be  properly  secured  from  almost  any  large 
nurseryman,  the  nearest  one  would  be  the  best  from 
whom  to  order. 

Recently,  as  mentioned  hi  " Propagation,"  there 
have  been  some  American  firms  who  have  tried 
budding  on  Japanese  Multiflora.  We  have  grown 
these  plants  for  a  number  of  years  past  and  have 
had  very  good  success  with  them. 

In  ordering  from  such  growers  the  planter  has  the 
advantage  of  securing  stock  more  or  less  acclimated, 
and  does  not  run  the  risk  of  having  the  heat  of  the 
steamers  sprout  plants  directly  imported;  he  is  deal- 
ing with  firms  close  at  hand  and  is  also  aiding  an 
American  enterprise. 

It  is,  therefore,  suggested  that  when  the  desired 
varieties  may  be  secured,  the  same  can  be  obtained 
from  the  following  growers,  who  are  budding  on  the 

148 


ORDERING 

Japanese  Multiflora.  There  may  be  other  firms 
who  are  using  this  stock,  but  at  the  present  tune 
these  budded  plants  may  be  secured  from  George 
H.  Peterson,  Fairlawn,  N.  J.;  Bobbink  &  Atkins, 
Rutherford,  N.  J. 

The  budding  of  roses  by  American  firms  is  cer- 
tainly a  great  advance  in  rose  culture  and  of  inesti- 
mable value  to  our  rose  growers.  Where  it  is  possi- 
ble to  secure  the  varieties  desired,  we  recommend 
American  field-grown  plants,  budded  and  grown  out- 
of-doors  by  any  well-known  firm  of  nurserymen. 

For  all  large  collections  when  American  field- 
grown  stock  cannot  be  obtained,  it  is  suggested 
that  foreign  budded  stock  be  ordered  through  the 
nearest  nurseryman. 

In  closing,  a  few  words  should  be  added  regarding 
the  different  times  of  the  year  in  which  planting 
may  be  done.  The  temperature  of  the  ground  is 
as  important  as  the  tune  of  the  year,  and  the  condi- 
tion in  which  the  plant  is  received  has  more  to  do 
with  future  success  than  either.  Unless  the  growing 
season  has  begun  and  is  well  under  way  plants 
must  be  received  in  a  dormant  condition.  We  have 
planted  roses  at  all  times  of  the  year  and  have  found 
that  if  the  plants  were  hi  proper  condition  and 
properly  handled  they  have  nearly  always  done  well; 
if  plants  were  not  hi  proper  condition,  no  matter 

149 


OUTDOOR  ROSE  GROWING 

how  much  care  was  used,  failure  practically  always 
resulted  unless  plants  received  greenhouse  care. 

The  advantage  of  planting  roses  in  the  autumn 
is  that  if  they  are  dormant,  i.e.,  if  growth  has  stopped 
for  the  year  prior  to  then*  shipment,  and  if  they 
have  not  been  subjected  to  heat  during  shipment 
causing  growth  to  recommence,  they  will  when 
planted  become  more  or  less  fixed  in  their  position, 
and  little  fibrous  roots  will  have  in  most  instances 
commenced  growth  before  spring.  Roses  so  planted 
and  which  have  become  so  established  will  start  off 
well  in  the  spring,  much  better  than  a  rose  which 
has  only  been  in  the  ground  a  short  time. 

This  has  been  found  equally  true  with  own-root 
stock;  in  fact,  if  such  stock  is  planted  during  the 
growing  season  little  may  be  expected  until  the  fol- 
lowing year,  and  many  deaths  have  resulted.  Only 
a  few  own-root  growers  supply  dormant  field- 
grown  stock,  as  most  of  them  strike  their  cuttings 
inside.  Own-root  stock,  field-grown,  and  two  years 
'  old,  is  much  stronger  and  better  than  greenhouse  own- 
root  plants,  but  even  then  only  the  very  strongest 
varieties  do  well. 

Our  advice  to  all  planters  with  whom  the  expense 
of  replacing  dead  plants  is  not  of  much  moment  is 
this:  From  October  to  May  plant  your  roses  as  soon 
as  you  have  decided  that  you  want  them.  Undoubt- 

150 


ORDERING 

edly,  you  will  lose  some  if  you  plant  after  the  growing 
season  has  begun;  perhaps  if  you  plant  the  last  of 
the  winter  you  will  not  secure  as  good  roses  as  if 
you  set  out  perfectly  dormant  plants  hi  the  late 
autumn,  but  no  doubt  a  great  many  of  them  will 
come  through  and  be  better  plants  the  following 
year  than  if  you  had  waited,  say  from  the  early 
spring  to  the  following  autumn.  In  addition  to  this 
there  is  the  pleasure  of  having  the  roses. 


VII 
PLANTING 

LET  \us  suppose  that  the  beds  are  ready,  the 
shipment  has  been  ordered,  and  on  one  eventful 
morning  it  has  arrived.  You  naturally  take  great 
pains  to  unpack  carefully  and  to  see  that  the  varie- 
ties received  check  off  properly  with  the  order  given. 
Sometimes  one  or  more  mistakes  may  be  made  in 
a  large  shipment,  but  as  a  usual  thing  great  care  has 
been  exercised  both  in  the  selection  and  packing 
of  the  order,  and  it  should  arrive  in  good  shape 
and  the  varieties  should  be  as  ordered.  Very  often 
the  nurseryman  will  add  a  plant  or  two  for  good 
measure.  The  plants  should  be  unpacked  inside 
some  building,  unless  perfect  weather  conditions 
prevail,  viz.,  a  damp,  moist  day — neither  cold 
nor  hot.  After  having  been  checked  off,  the  plants 
should  be  carefully  covered  so  that  the  roots  will 
neither  be  frozen  nor  dried  out  by  too  much  wind 
or  heat.  Usually  the  roses  come  packed  in  moss 
which  should  be  left  on  them.  If  there  is  no  moss, 
cover  the  roots  with  damp  earth,  and  when  taken 
outside  keep  them  protected  with  any  kind  of  wrap- 
ping, such  as  burlap  or  gunny  sacks;  or,  better  still, 
keep  them  in  buckets  or  tubs  of  water,  except  in 

freezing  weather,  when  you  should  not  plant.    This 

152 


PLANTING 

is  most  important  so  that  the  roots  may  be  placed 
in  the  ground  in  proper  condition.  Before  taking 
the  roses  to  their  beds  a  small  plan  should  be  made 
of  just  how  they  are  to  be  planted;  if  for  a  formal  or 
landscape  effect  this  has  no  doubt  been  all  arranged 
beforehand.  If,  however,  they  are  to  be  grown  in 
the  ordinary  form  of  bed  it  is  a  very  simple  matter 
to  have  the  bed  arranged  for  their  reception. 

Knowing  what  roses  are  coming,  and  the  distance 
apart  in  which  they  should  be  planted  (covered  in 
the  lists),  decide  on  the  order  in  which  they  should 
be  placed;  planting  alphabetically  is  the  easiest  way 
of  telling  where  any  particular  rose  is  located. 

The  bed  should  be  three  and  a  half  feet  wide  for 
the  best  Hybrid  Teas  and  Teas;  for  Hybrid  Perpet- 
uals  and  the  very  strongest  growers  four  feet  is  better; 
while  for  smaller  growing  roses  a  three-foot  bed  is 
sufficient.  For  all  beds  plant  the  roses  ten  inches 
from  the  edge  and  the  proper  distance  apart.  There 
should  be  two  rows  of  plants,  each  row  ten  inches 
from  the  side  of  the  bed.  With  one  row  plant  the 
first  rose  ten  inches  from  the  end  of  the  bed;  with 
the  other  row  plant  the  first  rose  twenty  inches  from 
the  same  end  of  the  bed.  This  does  not  bring  the 
plants  opposite  one  another  and  gives  them  a  trifle 
more  room  in  which  to  grow,  making  them  nearly 
the  same  distance  apart  each  way.  These  beds  as 

given  are  the  most  convenient  and  economical  and 

153 


OUTDOOR  ROSE  GROWING 

give  fine  results.  The  most  perfect  results  are 
obtained  with  a  single  row  of  plants  in  an  eighteen- 
inch  bed,  but  the  difference  is  so  slight  that  except 
where  room  is  of  no  moment  this  is  not  advocated. 
When  it  is  desired  to  form  masses  of  color  by 
planting  blocks  of  roses  in  specially  shaped  beds, 
a  trifle  more  room  should  be  given  to  the  inside 
plants  because  they  will  not  receive  the  same  amount 
of  ventilation  which  they  do  in  the  beds  as  advocated. 
For  our  own  beds  a  drawing  is  made,  as  indicated 
by  sketch  below,  which  is  found  very  easy  to  correct 
from  tune  to  tune  if  a  rose  dies  or  is  taken  out  for 
any  reason  and  another  substituted.  Suppose,  for 
example,  it  is  decided  to  put  in  four  roses  each  of  the 

E 


BED 

AADDGGJKKP 
AADDGGJKKP 

Name  Introducer          Stock          Date  Color          Notes 

A — Antoine  Rivoire 

D — Duchess  of  Wellington 

G — General  MacArthur 

J— Joseph  Hill 

K— KiUaraey 

P— President  Carnot 

154 


JOSEPH  HILL 

(Description  page  83) 


a 


FIG.  24 
PRACTICAL  WOODEN  LABEL  USED  IN  TESTING  BEDS 


Fia.  25 

Mr.  J.  Horace  McFarland,  of  Harrisburg,  uses  a  label  formed  from  a 
wooden  block  of  cypress  thoroughly  soaked  in  white  lead  and  covered 
with  a  rectangular  piece  of  zinc.  The  writing  is  done  with  a  solution 
of  platinum  chloride — ten  grains  to  four  ounces  of  water,  put  on  with 
a  gold  pen 


Fia.  26 
CELLULOID  LABEL 

A  thin  piece  of  paper  bearing  name,  etc.,  is  cemented  between  two 
clear  strips  of  celluloid.  Cementation  is  effected  by  flowing  a  small 
quantity  of  amyl  acetate  (banana  oil)  between  the  strips  of  celluloid 
and  paper,  placed  between  two  glasses  under  pressure  until  dry.  A 
hole  may  be  punched  in  end  for  string  or  wire  and  edges  trimmed  to 
make  a  neat  appearance 

Suggested  by  Mr.  F.  F.  Christine,  of  Philadelphia 


PLANTING 

following:  Antoine  Rivoire,  Duchess  of  Wellington, 
General  MacArthur,  Killarney,  and  two  each  of 
Souv.  du  President  Carnot  and  Joseph  Hill. 

Make  a  compass  drawing  as  outlined  so  that  there 
may  be  no  question  as  to  the  position  of  the  bed. 

This  plan  is  suggested  because  labels  are  a  delusion 
and  a  snare,  do  not  last,  and  also  become  misplaced, 
so  that  while  labels  are  kept  in  the  beds  we  depend 
upon  the  written  plan  for  positive  information  as 
to  what  each  rose  is,  its  location,  etc.*  It  is  but 
the  matter  of  a  few  moments  to  make  this  record  and 
the  tune  so  occupied  will  be  well  worth  while. 

Having  run  two  lines  ten  inches  from  each  side 
of  the  bed,  and  from  one  end  to  the  other,  space  off 
the  proper  point  at  which  each  rose  is  to  be  planted 
by  a  stake,  which  can  be  measured  with  ordinary 
rule  or  line.  Before  starting  work  put  on  a  pair  of 
gloves  to  protect  the  hands  from  thorns.  Bring  out 
but  a  few  roses  at  a  time,  and,  in  order  to  avoid  any 
possible  mixing  of  the  plants,  each  variety  should  be 
kept  absolutely  separate  and  planted  at  one  tune 
before  the  next  kind  is  placed  in  the  bed. 

Sometimes  rose  roots  are  injured  in  the  shipment, 
in  which  case  it  will  be  necessary  to  cut  off  the  broken 

*  A  most  practical  label  is  made  as  follows :  Cover  a  wooden 
label  with  white  lead  paint.  Write  on  label  with  a  soft  pencil  while 
white  lead  is  fresh.  Allow  the  white  lead  to  dry  and  then  cover  with 
outdoor  varnish.  Labels  received  with  new  stock  will  be  rendered 
more  lasting  by  the  use  of  varnish.  Note  illustration. 

155 


OUTDOOR  ROSE  GROWING 

ends.  A  good  pair  of  pruning  shears  and  a  sharp 
knife  are  the  two  best  implements  for  this  work. 
Cuts  should  be  sharp  and  clean  and  the  roots  should 
be  cut  off  above  the  break.  It  will  take  only  a  minute 
to  examine  each  plant  before  it  is  actually  set  and 
to  cut  off  broken  roots  and  any  suckers  in  which 
growth  may  have  started.  (For  further  information 
on  suckers,  see  page  20.) 

The  thing  to  be  most  carefully  considered,  and 
most  important  hi  planting  roses,  is  to  dig  a  hole 
about  eighteen  inches  deep,  the  center  of  which  is 
approximately  the  center  of  the  mark  for  the  rose. 
The  earth  should  be  taken  out  with  a  spade  from 
this  hole,  and  before  finally  replacing  it,  two  things 
should  be  carefully  noted — that  the  roots  spread 
out  at  the  bottom  and  do  not  cross  one  another. 
The  more  the  roots  are  spread  out,  the  more  sus- 
tenance the  plant  will  get,  and  the  more  room  there 
will  be  for  the  little  fibrous  roots.  It  is  particularly 
difficult  to  spread  out  the  roots  of  pot-grown  plants. 
The  other  important  point  is  that  the  bud,  i.e.,  the 
point  at  which  the  variety  has  been  budded  to  the 
stock,  which  may  be  easily  noted,  should  be  at  a 
given  distance  below  the  ground  level.  On  these  two 
factors  depends  the  size  of  the  excavation.  The  bud 
should  be  not  less  than  two  niches  and  not  more 
than  three  niches  below  the  finished  level  of  the  bed} 
except  with  roses  budded  on  Multiflora,  which  should 

156 


PLANTING 

be  one  and  a  half  inches.  This  seems  like  getting 
down  to  very  exact  planting,  but  if  the  bud  is  higher 
it  is  not  sufficiently  protected  in  whiter,  and  the 
rose  does  not  do  as  well  if  it  is  planted  lower. 

The  hole  being  properly  dug,  place  the  rose  in  it, 
carefully  spreading  out  the  roots  so  that  they  do 
not  cross  or  touch  one  another  at  any  point.  This 
will  take  some  tune  and  care,  but  it  is  of  the  greatest 
importance  to  the  future  growth  of  the  rose  that  it 
be  properly  done.  Two  persons  can  do  the  work 
much  better  than  one.  In  planting  always  have  a 
small  bucket  containing  top  soil  and  bone  meal  finely 
powdered  in  equal  parts  to  sprinkle  at  the  bottom 
of  the  hole  and  also  on  the  roots;  this  is  very  helpful 
to  their  growth,  because  it  precludes  the  possibility 
of  any  manure  touching  the  roots  (manure  which,  if 
too  fresh  and  not  well-rotted,  will  burn  them)  and 
promotes  the  growth  of  the  very  much  to  be  desired 
fibrous  feeding  roots.  After  this  preparation  is  put 
in,  the  helper  adds  the  soil  carefully,  a  little  at  a 
time,  to  fill  up  the  hole.  As  he  puts  it  in,  tamp  it 
firmly  with  a  stick,  and,  as  the  hole  gradually  fills, 
take  particular  care  that  there  is  no  space  left  just 
underneath  the  main  root  of  the  plant,  for  air  space 
is  most  detrimental  to  the  growth  of  the  rose.  Having 
filled  up  the  hole  to  the  ground  level  of  the  bed,  con- 
sider the  rose  to  be  planted,  and  proceed  to  the  next. 

When  the  first  hole  is  dug,  remove  the  earth  and  put 

157 


OUTDOOR  ROSE  GROWING 

it  beyond  the  stake  for  the  last  hole,  then  use  the 
earth  from  the  second  hole  to  fill  around  the  first 
plant,  and  so  on;  this  saves  much  work  and  insures 
keeping  the  entire  bed  the  same  level. 

An  easy  way  to  get  an  almost  exact  depth  below 
the  ground  for  the  bud  is  to  have  a  lath,  or  other 
straight  piece  of  wood,  in  the  center  of  which  a 
measure  is  nailed.  This  operation  is  very  simple,  if 
the  main  points,  as  enumerated  above,  are  carefully 
carried  out. 

These  rules  are  so  important  for  the  future  success 
of  the  plants  that  they  are  repeated: 

First,  unpack  indoors  unless  weather  conditions 
are  absolutely  perfect. 

Second,  keep  the  roots  well  covered,  preferably 
with  moss  if  they  have  been  packed  in  it,  otherwise 
with  damp  earth,  or  coverings,  or  water. 

Third,  have  a  bucket  containing  a  mixture  of 
equal  parts  of  top  soil  and  bone  meal  to  place  around 
the  roots. 

Fourth,  take  plenty  of  time  hi  digging  the  hole  to 
get  it  large  enough  and  wide  enough  at  the  bottom 
to  spread  the  roots  properly. 

Fifth,  do  not  let  the  roots  cross  one  another. 

Sixth,  plant  carefully  and  slowly,  tamping  down 
the  earth  with  a  stick,  making  sure  by  gently  raising 
and  lowering  as  the  earth  is  filled  in  that  no  air 

space  remains  below  the  main  part  of  the  root. 

158 


PLANTING 

Seventh,  for  Briar,  Manetti  and  Rugosa,  do  not 
place  the  bud  more  than  three  inches  or  less  than 
two  inches  from  the  finished  surface  of  the  bed.  For 
Multiflora,  plant  one  and  a  half  niches  below  ground. 
For  own-root,  plant  just  below  former  level. 

If  it  is  impossible  to  finish  planting  hi  any  one  day 
take  particular  care  of  the  remaining  roses.  Keep 
them  heeled  in  damp  earth,  or  if  the  season  is  so 
late  that  this  cannot  be  done,  keep  them  well-cov- 
ered indoors  with  soil.  It  is  very  easy  to  cover  the 
finished  beds  with  a  heavy  litter  of  manure  and  straw 
to  keep  the  frost  from  them.  If  a  quantity  of  soil 
is  mixed  and  kept  indoors  ready  for  use,  holes  can 
be  dug  and  the  plants  set  in  this  soil  as  has  been 
suggested  in  " Location  and  Preparation."  This 
method  has  been  used  successfully  in  the  very  late 
autumn  and  at  the  end  of  the  whiter.  If  planting 
in  the  late  autumn,  it  is  well  to  protect  the  plants 
as  much  as  possible.  The  best  way  to  do  this  is  to 
add  a  few  wheelbarrow  loads  of  soil  to  the  beds 
after  planting  and  make  little  mounds  around  each 
plant,  hilling  them  up  and  then  covering  with  litter. 
If  this  is  done  the  coarse  litter  should  be  removed 
in  the  early  spring  and  the  fine  manure  remaining 
should  be  forked  carefully  into  the  bed,  as  this  will 
be  a  good  fertilizer  during  the  summer.  In  autumn 
planting  it  will  generally  be  found  that  rose  plants 

159 


OUTDOOR  ROSE  GROWING 

have  been  cut  back  to  about  a  foot  from  the  ground, 
and  if  this  is  the  case  leave  them  as  they  are.  If, 
however,  they  have  the  long,  full  growth  they  had 
when  taken  up  or  a  large  part  of  it,  cut  back  to  a  foot 
and  a  half. 

Hybrid  Teas  and  Teas  budded  on  Multiflora  need 
more  room  than  when  budded  on  Briar  or  Manetti. 
In  the  lists  extra  room  is  allowed  for  such  plants. 

In  moving  roses  it  is  best  to  take  the  earth  with 
them  as  much  as  possible.  In  the  case  of  a  small 
plant  a  successful  method  is  to  take  the  bottom  out 
of  a  galvanized  iron  bucket,  and  after  thoroughly 
watering  the  ground  around  the  plant,  place  the 
bucket  over  the  same,  forcing  it  into  the  ground  until 
the  top  is  even  with  the  ground  level.  Then  by  mov- 
ing from  side  to  side  and  aiding  with  a  digging  fork 
underneath  the  bucket,  the  plant  and  dampened 
e&rth  will  come  out  with  the  bucket,  and  mSay  be 
moved  to  its  new  location.  In  the  case  of  a  larger 
plant  where  this  system  is  not  practicable,  it  is  neces- 
sary to  dig  out  around  the  plant,  using  digging  forks 
to  take  up  the  plant  without  cutting  the  roots.  The 
earth  may  be  kept  in  a  ball  by  the  use  of  canvas  or 
burlap.  It  is  well  to  thoroughly  water  the  plant 
after  moving,  and  some  authorities  advise  filling  the 
hole  with  water  before  planting. 


160 


VIII 
PRUNING 

PRUNING  is  one  of  the  most  important  parts  of 
rose  culture;  just  as  it  is  most  necessary  to  prepare 
the  ground  properly  and  to  plant  intelligently,  so 
also  should  one  be  certain  to  prune  systematically. 
The  whole  growth  of  the  plant  is  changed  by  the 
manner  of  its  pruning. 

Under  climbing  varieties  rules  for  their  proper 
pruning  have  been  given,  and  in  this  chapter  will 
be  taken  up  the  pruning  of  all  the  roses  contained 
in  the  lists.  It  is  an  easy  matter  when  the  theory 
of  it  is  understood.  Perhaps  the  simplest  and  clear- 
est illustration  which  could  be  given  would  be  to 
suppose  a  rose  cane  has  fifteen  buds  or  eyes  on  it; 
from  these  buds  or  eyes  spring  the  shoots  which 
afterward  become  the  flower  stalks  of  the  plant. 
Now,  if  this  were  not  pruned  at  all  but  the  entire 
cane  left,  the  sustenance  received  from  the  roots 
would  be  divided  into  fifteen  parts.  As  a  matter 
of  fact  the  greatest  amount  would  go  to  the  end  or 
top  of  the  cane  and  to  those  buds  nearest  the  top, 
for  in  all  plant  life  it  is  more  difficult  to  get  the  sap 
to  break  the  buds  nearest  the  base,  especially  if  there 
is  too  great  a  distance  from  that  base  to  the  top  of 
the  lateral,  limb,  or  cane. 

161 


OUTDOOR  ROSE  GROWING 

Roses  will  differ  in  growth  and  the  strongest 
growers  will  naturally  throw  out  more  buds  on  any 
given  length  of  cane  than  the  weaker.  In  addition 
to  this,  plants  of  low,  spreading  growth,  whose  canes 
grow  more  or  less  parallel  to  the  ground,  do  not  send 
their  sap  as  quickly  to  the  ends  of  the  growth  as  do 
plants  whose  canes  are  more  upright.  For  this  reason 
different  varieties  require  somewhat  different  prun- 
ing, and  hi  the  lists  are  given  the  number  of  eyes 
or  buds  to  which  each  variety  should  be  cut  back, 
provided,  of  course,  the  wood  has  not  been  winter 
killed  below  the  point  indicated.  Returning  to  the 
theory  of  the  sap  and  the  illustration  of  the  cane 
with  fifteen  buds:  Cut  off,  say,  ten  of  these  buds 
from  the  cane  and  the  five  remaining  will  receive 
just  so  much  more  sap  and  there  will  be  that  much 
more  chance  of  the  lowest  buds  breaking  and  sending 
out  their  shoots.  If  the  cane  were  not  cut,  the  greater 
part  of  the  sap  would  go  to  the  few  top  buds  and  the 
lower  buds  would  be  late  in  growing,  some  possibly 
not  breaking  at  all.  Nature  prunes  the  weaker  varie- 
ties by  killing  back  a  portion  of  their  wood,  thus 
causing  them  to  throw  up  strong  new  canes. 

It  will  readily  be  understood  that  the  larger  the 
cane  and  the  hardier  and  more  vigorous  the  plant, 
the  more  buds  could  be  left  with  still  a  chance  for 
their  breaking;  conversely,  the  weaker  the  variety 

162 


PRUNING 

and  the  smaller  the  cane,  the  less  sap  would  be  con- 
tained therein  and  the  fewer  buds  would  break  and 
grow  shoots  in  any  given  length  of  cane.  This  is 
the  main  theory  of  pruning  Hybrid  Tea  roses,  pro- 
vided that  it  is  reasonable  quality,  and  not  quantity 
without  much  quality,  that  one  wants. 

The  average  rose  plant  hi  its  second  year  should 
give  from  fifteen  to  fifty  blooms,  according  to  the 
variety,  if  it  is  cut  back  on  this  principle.  Shy 
bloomers  will  not  give  fifteen  flowers  and  the  greater 
number  of  these  will  be  borne  in  the  spring. 

Usually  a  good  bloomer  will  have  three  or  four 
flowering  periods,  the  most  profuse  being  in  the 
spring  and  early  fall. 

In  counting  blooms  only  those  with  fan*  stems  are 
considered  and  the  usual  amount  of  disbudding  done, 
the  rule  being  to  count  every  bloom  with  a  stem  of 
six  niches  or  over. 

If  more  blooms  of  poorer  quality  are  desired,  do 
not  prune  the  roses  as  far  back  as  suggested  below, 
but  they  will  require  a  certain  amount  of  thinning 
after  the  growing  season  starts,  so  that  the  various 
shoots  do  not  crowd  each  other  too  much;  all  but 
the  strongest  varieties  of  roses  which  are  so  pruned 
should  be  staked,  i.e.,  fastened  to  a  stake  driven 
firmly  into  the  ground.  In  so  pruning  and  staking 
do  not  use  wire  but  tie  the  bushes  to  the  stakes 

163 


OUTDOOR  ROSE  GROWING 

with  soft  woollen  string.  This  latter  course  of  prun- 
ing is  usually  carried  out  with  roses  of  the  bedding 
type,  on  which  the  blooms  are  seldom  fine  enough 
for  cutting;  but  so  treated,  the  plants  form  a  mass 
of  color  and  are  used  for  this  reason  for  garden 
decoration. 

Where  high  pruning  is  used  it  must  be  understood 
that  with  such  treatment  the  stems  will  gradually 
become  shorter  and  weaker,  and  the  individual  blooms 
less  beautiful  than  where  the  plant  is  cut  back  by 
the  ordinary  method,  but  there  will  be  a  greater 
number  of  blooms.  In  the  illustration  of  Daily  Mail 
pruned  high  and  low,  the  growth  on  the  plant  pruned 
high  was  the  result  of  hard  cutting  back  the  previous 
season.  If  the  high  pruning  is  carried  out  a  second 
year  there  will  not  be  new  strong  growths  such  as 
those  obtained  by  the  low  pruning. 

The  best  and  usually  accepted  way  of  pruning 
roses  for  cutting  is  to  prune  for  the  finest  blooms. 
As  a  general  working  rule  prune  the  strongest  varie- 
ties to  five  buds  or  eyes,  about  six  to  ten  inches,  on 
the  main  strong  canes,  the  small  weaker  canes  being 
cut  to  three  or  four  eyes,  about  six  inches. 

A  plant  can  always  be  made  to  grow  in  any  given 
direction  by  cutting  to  a  bud  which  leads  hi  that 
direction;  e.g.,  in  order  to  spread  the  plant,  if  the 
fifth  eye  is  on  the  inside  of  plant,  cut  to  the  eye 

164 


PRUNING 

above  if  it  is  a  large  cane,  for  the  eye  above  is  on 
the  outside  of  the  plant;  or  if  the  wood  is  somewhat 
smaller  and  weaker  cut  to  the  outside  eye  below. 
In  this  way  the  plant  will  be  spread  out  and  the 
shoots  will  not  all  crowd  together  on  the  inside,  as 
would  be  the  case  in  cutting  to  inside  eyes.  With 
weaker  varieties  cut  to  three  and  four  eyes  on  the 
stronger-growing  canes,  and  to  two  and  three  eyes 
on  the  very  weak  ones.  Each  of  these  buds  left  on 
the  cane  should  throw  up  flower  stalks. 

In  addition  to  this  main  theory,  there  are  one  or 
two  other  points  which  it  is  necessary  to  consider 
hi  pruning  plants.  They  should  not  be  too  much 
crowded  and  the  best  way  to  prevent  this  is  by 
cutting  out  the  weakest  growths.  At  first  it  may 
be  somewhat  difficult  for  one  to  be  sure  which  canes 
should  be  removed,  but  by  watching  the  plants  after 
growth  is  started  this  will  soon  be  understood.  An 
absolute  rule  cannot  be  given  for  the  number  of  canes 
to  be  left,  but  there  must  not  be  too  much  crowding, 
particularly  in  the  center  of  the  plant.  All  dead 
wood  should  also  be  removed.  This  can  be  easily 
detected  and  it  should  be  cut  back  to  the  live  wood, 
care  being  taken  not  to  injure  the  bark  of  the  latter 
and  to  make  a  clean,  sharp  amputation. 

Where  there  is  any  doubt  it  is  easy  to  cut  high, 
and  later  prune  low  if  the  buds  do  not  push  properly. 

165 


OUTDOOR  ROSE  GROWING 

The  rule  has  sometimes  been  given  to  cut  away 
everything  until  the  pith  shows  white.  The  method 
quoted  is  preferable,  as  it  is  often  difficult  to  judge 
the  condition  of  the  pith  and  it  is  easy  to  prune 
low  later,  no  harm  being  done  by  leaving  the  cane 
longer;  this  is  equally  true  of  climbers. 

Quite  a  number  of  varieties  have  the  unfortunate 
habit  of  throwing  out  one  or  perhaps  two  very  large 
growths  on  one  side  of  the  plant,  the  opposite  side 
being  correspondingly  immature  and  weak.  In  such 
cases,  in  order  to  balance  the  plant,  particularly  for 
succeeding  years,  cut  back  the  one  or  two  large 
growths  very  "wickedly,"  one  or  two  eyes  being 
the  proper  distance.  Cut  out  all  but  the  best  of  the 
remaining  weaker  stems,  and  after  growth  has  com- 
menced do  not  allow  the  stalks  on  the  strong  canes 
to  get  beyond  control.  This  treatment  will  serve 
to  equalize  the  growths  on  such  plants. 

In  England,  where  the  cold  does  not  kill  back  the 
canes  so  far,  the  Hybrid  Teas  are  pruned  to  a  greater 
number  of  eyes.  Pemberton,  for  example,  advises 
leaving  Caroline  Testout  from  two  to  three  feet,  but 
in'our  climate  this  rose  would  be  killed  back  to  a  foot 
or  less  and  hi  the  north  to  an  even  greater  degree. 

Pruning  is  usually  done  after  the  main  body  of 
frost  has  left  the  ground.  Where  frost  does  not 
occur  pruning  should  be  done  at  the  season  of  the 

166 


PRUNING 

year  when  the  buds  commence  to  break;  even  hi 
climates  where  there  is  no  frost,  roses  will  have  a 
dormant  season,  and  just  before  the  buds  begin  to 
break  will  be  the  proper  tune  to  prune  in  these  local- 
ities. Usually  in  such  climates  the  dormant  season 
of  the  rose  is  the  tune  during  which  it  does  not  get 
any  water,  that  is,  during  the  dry  season.  With  the 
return  of  the  rains  the  dormant  plant  commences 
further  growth.  This  refers,  of  course,  to  climates 
in  which  there  is  practically  no  winter,  i.e.,  no  frost. 
In  the  spring  pruning  it  will  sometimes  be  found 
that  canes  of  the  weaker  varieties  have  died  back 
after  a  very  severe  winter  to  a  smaller  number  of 
buds  than  above  noted  or  given  in  the  lists,  though 
these  exceptions  should  be  rare.  If  the  wood  has 
died  back  to  any  extent  it  will  be  necessary  to  prune 
to  the  first  good  bud  or  eye  below  the  winter-killed 
portion  without  reference  to  the  number  of  buds, 
even  if  the  cane  is  shorter  than  that  left  by  the 
usual  system.  This  information  is  a  general  working 
rule.  There  are  some  few  varieties  which,  on  account 
of  their  peculiar  growth,  should  receive  special  treat- 
ment, and  to  cover  this  point  thoroughly  the  number 
of  eyes  to  which  each  should  be  pruned  is  given  in 
the  lists,  the  number  referring  to  the  strongest  canes; 
on  the  weaker  ones,  of  course,  cut  to  a  less  number 
of  eyee. 

167 


OUTDOOR  ROSE  GROWING 

In  order  that  the  rules  for  pruning  may  be  more 
thoroughly  understood  the  system  is  illustrated  hi 
Figs.  29  and  30  herewith  given.  The  first  is  a  Hybrid 
Tea  rose  which  was  not  pruned  in  the  spring  but 
was  allowed  to  develop.  The  second  is  the  same 
plant  properly  pruned. 

Fig.  29  shows  the  plant  photographed  after  it  was 
taken  from  the  ground.  On  stem  "  A, "  in  particular, 
it  will  be  noted  that  none  of  the  lower  buds  have 
pushed  but  that  the  top  buds  are  well  developed. 
This  carries  out  exactly  the  theory  that  on  a  long, 
weak  stem  the  sap  will  go  to  the  top  buds.  To  prop- 
erly prune  this  weakest  stem  it  should  be  cut  off 
to  two  buds  as  is  shown  hi  Fig.  30.  On  stem  "B," 
which  is  somewhat  stronger,  it  will  be  seen  that  the 
lower  buds  have  pushed,  owing  to  some  extent  to 
the  fact  that  this  stem  is  not  so  long.  Fig.  30  shows 
that  stem  "B"  is  pruned  to  the  third  bud,  which  is 
on  the  outside.  The  first  bud  is  dormant  and  does 
not  show  clearly  in  the  illustration.  Cane  "C"  on 
Fig.  29  should  be  pruned  in  exactly  the  same  way, 
cut  to  the  third  bud  on  the  outside,  and  this  is  done 
in  Fig.  30.  Cane  "  D  "  hi  Fig.  29  is  undoubtedly  the 
one  which  should  be  removed,  as  it  crowds  the  center 
of  the  plant,  and  hi  Fig.  30  this  stem  has  been  cut  out. 
Note  how  much  more  space  is  left  for  the  balance 
of  the  growth,  particularly  for  the  strong  lowest 

168 


FIG.  29 
HYBRID  TEA  ROSE,  NOT  PRUNED  BUT  ALLOWED  TO  DEVELOP 


FIG. 30 
SAME  ROSE  AS  FIG.  29  PROPERLY  PRI'XED 


PRUNING 

shoot  of  "E. "  "E"  in  Fig.  29  should  be  cut  to  the 
fourth  bud  on  the  outside,  and  this  is  shown  hi  Fig. 
30.  "F"  is  undoubtedly  the  strongest  cane  and  on 
its  whole  length  the  young  shoots  have  started  vigor- 
ous spring  growth.  Cut  "F"  to  five  eyes  as  in  Fig. 
30.  Had  this  plant  (Fig.  29)  been  pruned  in  the  early 
spring  the  dormant  buds  on  "  A"  and  the  lower  buds 
on  "B"  and  "C"  would  have  been  forced  into 
growth,  but  as  the  stems  were  left  long,  the  sap  went 
to  the  top  of  these  weaker-growing  canes.  If  cane 
"F"  had  been  somewhat  larger,  and  "B,"  "C," 
and  "E"  had  been  as  small  as  or  smaller  canes  than 
"A,"  the  plant  would  have  been  too  one-sided  and 
it  would  have  been  necessary  to  have  cut  "F"  back, 
certainly  to  the  third  bud,  which  is  on  the  outside, 
possibly  to  its  lower  bud  to  equalize  the  growth; 
but  hi  this  instance  the  three  remaining  canes  hi 
the  center,  "B,"  "C,"  and  "E,"  are  nearly  as  large 
as  "F,"  and  the  cane  "A"  by  being  cut  back  to  its 
second  eye  should  throw  out  strong  growths,  as  the 
two  buds  remaining  will  secure  all  of  the  sap  of  this 
stalk. 

These  instructions  are  given  for  general  work  to 
secure  the  greatest  number  of  fine  blooms.  Natu- 
rally, if  a  person  wishes  exhibition  blooms,  and  is 
willing  to  be  satisfied  with  only  a  few  of  these,  after 
growth  has  started  and  the  shoots  have  broken,  he 

169 


OUTDOOR  ROSE  GROWING 

should  again  go  carefully  over  his  plants  and  cut 
out  all  weak  growths,  keeping  only  the  most  promis- 
ing shoots  of  the  most  vigorous  canes.  It  will  gen- 
erally be  necessary,  in  order  to  secure  this  result,  to 
cut  back  to  two  shoots,  but  with  a  particularly 
vigorous  and  promising  growth  leave  more,  in  which 
case,  however,  cut  off  the  weaker  growths  below — 
hi  other  words,  following  out  the  first  theory,  the 
fewer  buds  the  more  sap  to  each. 

The  English  custom  for  exhibition  varieties,  as  a 
general  rule,  is  to  wait  until  the  flowers  have  been 
formed  and  then  to  cut  out  such  growths  as  are  not 
required,  mainly  because  they  are  not  promising, 
and  to  allow  all  the  vitality  contained  in  the  sap  to 
go  to  the  blooms  which  are  left.  Such  blooms, 
receiving  all  the  nourishment,  tend  to  be  larger  and 
more  perfect  than  the  average  flowers.  However, 
they  do  not  surpass  the  average  bloom  recommended 
to  any  marked  degree,  and  they  cut  down  the  num- 
ber of  flowers  so  greatly  that  they  are  not  worth  the 
sacrifice  they  entail  except  for  exhibition  purposes. 

The  bush  should  be  carefully  and  thoroughly 
pruned  according  to  the  rules  given  above,  an  addi- 
tional and  very  necessary  point  being  that  the  cut 
ought  to  be  made  not  less  than  one-quarter  of  an 
inch  above  the  bud  and  not  more  than  one-half  of 
an  inch  from  it.  The  cut  should  not  be  straight 

170 


PRUNING 

across,  that  is,  parallel  with  the  ground,  but  should 
be  slanting.  This  will  keep  the  water  from  rotting 
out  the  wood  too  quickly  before  the  bud  starts  and 
the  shoots  are  established.  The  cut  should  be  clean. 
An  ordinary  pan-  of  gardening  pruning  shears  is  the 
best  implement  for  this  work.  These  shears  must 
be  kept  sharp,  otherwise  they  leave  rough  edges  and 
bruise  the  bark,  which  then  will  not  heal. 

The  most  comfortable  way  in  which  to  prune  is 
to  have  a  heavy  square  of  carpet  placed  on  the 
ground  on  which  one  may  either  sit  or  kneel.  It  is 
impossible  to  do  any  great  amount  of  pruning  unless 
some  such  method  is  used;  to  keep  the  dampness 
from  coming  through  the  carpet  should  be  doubled 
over  at  least  once.  Persons  having  trouble  with 
their  eyes  should  be  very  careful  to  use  their  glasses 
hi  this  work,  as  more  minute  attention  is  required 
than  one  would  think.  The  foregoing  suggestions 
apply  mainly  to  a  large  amount  of  pruning,  but  even 
where  the  plants  are  few  it  would  perhaps  be  best  to 
employ  this  method,  as  the  operation  would  certainly 
be  much  more  comfortable.  In  all  pruning  a  pah*  of 
heavy  gloves  will  be  found  a  necessary  protection. 

In  the  autumn  the  only  pruning  necessary  is  to 
cut  down  the  bushes  so  that  the  fibrous  feeding 
roots  will  not  be^broken  by  the  thrashing  about  of 
the  tops  in  the  heavy  winter  winds.  It  is  quite 

171 


OUTDOOR  ROSE  GROWING 

easy  to  cut  down  to  an  approximate  height  until 
the  early  spring  pruning,  and  when  the  plants  have 
done  blooming  and  the  frost  has  set  hi  severely  cut 
to  an  approximate  height  of  one  foot  and  a  half, 
except  in  strongest  growing  kinds  and  climbers.  Do 
not  cut  to  less.  The  buds  liable  to  break  are  upper 
buds,  and  if  forced  hi  a  warm,  late  autumn  or  early 
spring,  after  breaking  they  will  certainly  whiter  kill. 
If  left  short  there  are  not  enough  buds  remaining 
below  to  carry  out  the  scheme  of  pruning;  if  left 
longer,  no  harm  is  done. 

Under  pruning  it  is  well  to  include  the  cutting  of 
the  bloom.  This  is  a  part  of  rose  culture  which  is 
usually  neither  considered  nor  understood.  It  is 
not  easy  to  regulate  by  actual  rule  but  if  the  principle 
is  understood  the  proper  cutting  of  roses  is  a  very- 
easy  matter.  In  this,  as  in  spring  pruning,  the 
method  to  be  employed  depends  entirely  upon  what 
is  desired.  Cutting  off  the  blooms  insures  more. 
If  they  are  not  cut  new  growth  will  not  start  so 
quickly.  For  this  reason  it  is  advisable  to  pinch  off 
any  blooms  which  may  have  been  left  on  the  plants. 
This  should  be  particularly  noted  with  all  bedding 
varieties  which  are  kept  for  garden  decoration  and 
are  not  usually  cut.  If  a  stem  is  left  and  the  seed 
pod  forms  it  takes  the  greater  part  of  the  nourish- 
ment on  any  shoot,  the  sap  going  to  the  top  as  has 

172 


PRUNING 

been  previously  noted.  Nature  thus  provides  for 
the  greatest  amount  of  sustenance  going  to  the 
seed  pod.  By  autumn,  if  blooms  are  not  cut  but 
pinched,  the  plant  is  more  bushy  and  has  perhaps 
somewhat  better  foliage.  In  the  cutting  of  the  stems 
be  careful  to  leave  enough  buds  below  the  cut  on 
the  shoot  to  provide  other  shoots,  which  will  later 
in  the  season  give  more  blooms.  On  the  stronger 
varieties  in  the  June  blooming  season,  on  a  Hybrid 
Tea  rose  or  a  rose  which  is  expected  to  bloom  again, 
leave  enough  buds  to  give  shoots  for  summer  and 
for  autumn  bloom.  Therefore,  in  such  cuttings  leave 
never  less  than  two  buds  at  the  base  of  the  shoot, 
and  with  very  strong  varieties  three  buds,  always 
seeing  that  the  bud  is  a  strong  one.  If  a  long  stem 
is  left  on  the  plant  more  flowers  will  be  produced  but 
they  will  not  be  on  such  stalwart  stems,  nor  will 
they  produce  as  fine  blooms.  If  cutting  from  a 
Hybrid  Perpetual,  or  from  a  rose  from  which  no 
more  bloom  is  expected,  to  cut  to  one  bud  will  be 
sufficient.  In  this  cutting  of  blooms,  the  same  as 
in  pruning,  follow  the  well-known  theory  that  on  a 
weak  growth  you  can  cut  farther  back  than  on  a 
strong  growth.  If,  however,  the  plant  is  uneven  hi 
growth,  care  must  be  used  to  aid  the  spring  pruning 
of  such  a  plant  by  following  out  the  work  already 

started  and  cutting  back  harder  on  the  stronger  side. 

173 


OUTDOOR  ROSE  GROWING 

Approximately  on  an  average  growth  leave,  as  above 
stated,  two  buds  on  the  constantly  blooming  varie- 
ties. In  late  fall  cutting  it  will  be  unnecessary  to 
leave  any  buds  below  the  cut  as  there  will  be  no 
more  bloom  after  frost.  In  the  weak  kinds,  the  frail, 
drooping  stems  are  not  needed  on  the  bloom,  but 
they  should  not  remain  on  the  plant;  therefore  cut 
harder  on  the  weak  growths  and  afterwards  reduce 
the  length  of  the  stem.  Unless  the  plant  is  hybrid- 
ized or  the  seed  is  desired,  the  seed  pods  or  heps 
are  not  needed,  and  if  twice  a  week  all  old  blooms 
are  cut  from  the  plants,  the  beds  will  be  in  better 
order  and  more  flowers  will  be  secured  thereafter. 

Spring  pruning  as  given  here  applies  to  roses  after 
the  first  year.  For  the  first  year  they  should  all  be 
cut  back  to  three  eyes  on  good  wood  and  one  eye 
on  weak  wood.  This  gives  the  young,  unestablished 
roots  less  work  to  do  and  provides  more  time  for 
them  to  prepare  for  the  following  year. 

In  pruning  varieties  not  mentioned  in  the  lists 
the  main  work  to  be  done  is  always  to  cut  out 
all  the  dead  wood.  This,  of  course,  also  applies  to 
the  lists. 

Rugosas,  Austrian  Briars,  Chinas  and  Bourbons 
require  practically  no  pruning  excepting  the  removal 
of  dead  wood  and  necessary  thinning  to  prevent 
crowding.  If  pruned  severely  it  tends  to  the  devel- 

174 


PRUNING 

opment  of  wood  instead  of  flowers,  especially  in  the 
Austrian  Briar. 

To  again  enumerate  the  main  points  in  this  chap- 
ter: Prune  when  the  new  growth  can  be  plainly 
noted;  for  medium  fine  blooms  prune  the  strong 
varieties  on  the  strongest  canes  to  five  and  six  eyes; 
weaker  canes,  to  a  smaller  number.  On  the  weaker 
varieties  prune  to  three  and  four  eyes  on  the  strong 
canes;  two  and  three  eyes  on  the  weaker  ones.  If 
the  bushes  are  desired  for  garden  decoration,  do  not 
prune  quite  so  far  down  the  canes;  for  a  few  exhi- 
bition blooms,  cut  harder,  and,  later  in  the  season, 
thin  out  unnecessary  and  unpromising  growths.  For 
all  plants  cut  out  dead  wood.  In  cutting  roses  during 
the  spring  and  summer  never  leave  less  than  two 
eyes  on  any  cane.  This  gives  summer  and  autumn 
blooms.  On  the  very  strongest  varieties  cut  to  three 
eyes — always  cut  to  a  strong  eye.  Be  sure  that  the 
cut  is  a  clean  one  and  slanting,  and  from  one-quarter 
to  one-half  an  inch  above  the  bud.  Always  cut  to 
outside  buds,  except  where  special  direction  of  the 
growth  is  needed. 

In  all  pruning  remember  the  working  rule  and  so 
accomplish  the  purpose;  the  fewer  buds  the  more 
sap  they  will  receive,  and  the  more  buds  the  smaller 
amount  of  sap  each  one  will  get,  and  also  that  the 

buds  near  the  base  may  not  break. 

175 


IX 
CULTIVATION 

IP  the  directions  given  in  this  book  for  location, 
preparation  of  bed,  ordering,  planting  and  pruning 
have  been  followed,  the  really  hard  work  is  over  and 
the  most  pleasant  part  is  ahead.  The  actual  culture 
of  the  rose  is  very  easy  and  agreeable.  Beyond  a 
little  spring  and  autumn  care,  some  spraying  and 
the  weeding  of  the  beds,  there  is  not  much  work  to 
be  done.  In  the  spring,  after  the  frost  is  out  of  the 
ground,  take  off  the  covering  of  the  bed,  whether 
it  be  litter  or  only  leaves.  The  little  mounds  should 
now  be  raked  down  so  that  the  bed  is  level,  and  if 
the  roses  were  covered  with  litter  the  greater  part 
of  it,  especially  the  straw,  should  be  removed,  and 
the  manure  that  is  left  should  be  forked  into  the 
bed;  but  not  to  the  extent  of  disturbing  the  roots. 
After  the  roses  are  pruned,  the  next  thing  is  the 
feeding  of  the  plants  in  order  to  give  a  particularly 
fine  growth. 

In  the  bed  itself,  there  is  enough  manure  to  furnish 
the  roots  with  food  for  many  years,  but  to  secure 
the  best  results  feed  the  roots  from  the  surface. 
Wood  ashes  and  bone  meal  may  be  alternately  forked 
into  the  bed  after  growth  has  begun.  Another  good 

176 


FIG.  31 
Variety  which  does  not  require  disbudding 


FIG.  32 


At  the  left,  the  result  when  disbudding  is  needed  and  not  attended  to;  at  the  right,  the 
improvement  for  specimen  blooms  given  by  careful  disbudding 


CULTIVATION 

food  is  liquid  manure  water  in  the  proportion  of  half 
a  bushel  of  manure  to  a  barrel  of  water — "weak 
and  often"  is  the  old  gardener's  recipe.  Dr.  Huey 
advocates  watering  heavily  during  dry  conditions 
before  such  feeding. 

Blood  diluted  with  water  is  sometimes  used.  Mr. 
Frederick  W.  Taylor  applied  this  alternately  with 
manure  water;  his  recipe  is  five  pounds  of  blood  to 
a  barrel  of  water.  After  mixing,  permit  the  blood  to 
settle,  then  draw  off  the  greater  part  of  the  water; 
use  the  same  blood  in  the  same  manner  twice  again, 
five  pounds  making  three  mixtures. 

In  April  or  May  the  shoots  should  begin  to  grow, 
and  very  shortly  the  buds  themselves  will  appear 
and  gradually  turn  into  blooms.  On  certain  varie- 
ties, too  few  unfortunately,  there  is  only  one  terminal 
bud  on  each  growth;  on  a  great  many,  small  buds 
will  appear  close  to  the  larger  ones;  these  should  be 
carefully  removed  as  naturally  they  take  a  certain 
amount  of  sustenance,  and  the  main  bloom  will 
develop  better  and  will  be  of  finer  quality  if  it  receives 
all  the  nourishment.  It  does  not  take  very  long  to 
go  over  the  plants  and  disbud  all  these  smaller 
flower  buds,  and  unless  nothing  but  a  mass  of  color 
is  preferred  remove  them.  This  can  be  easily  and 
quickly  done  by  hand. 

It  will  be  found  that  all  the  young  buds  and  leaves 

177 


OUTDOOR  ROSE  GROWING 

are  covered  with  little,  light  green  insects — Green 
Flies  or  Aphides,  which  are  common  pests  in  rose 
gardens.  There  is  a  very  effective  remedy  for  them 
which  will  greatly  check  their  future  development; 
this  is  to  spray  with  a  solution  of  tobacco  stems  and 
whale  oil  soap.  The  best  proportions  are  as  follows: 
Two  ounces  of  tobacco  stems  to  a  bucket  of  water, 
to  which  add  an  ounce  of  whale  oil  soap,  first  dis- 
solved in  a  small  quantity  of  hot  water.  It  will  take 
about  three  hours  for  this  to  dissolve.  It  should 
then  be  added  to  the  tobacco  mixture.  Doctor  H. 
A.  Surface,  the  Zoologist  of  the  State  of  Pennsylvania, 
recommends  a  mixture  of  one  ounce  of  Blackleaf  No. 
40  with  five  gallons  of  water.  This  is  more  conven- 
ient than  the  infusion  with  tobacco  stems  and  gives 
the  same  result.  It  may  be  bought  at  seed  stores. 
Add  ly^  oz.  of  soft  soap  to  the  above  so  that  the 
spray  will  adhere  to  the  foliage.  The  Aphides  are 
quickly  destroyed  with  this  spray  and  a  gallon  of 
the  mixture  by  careful  application  is  enough  for  from 
fifteen  to  twenty-five  rose  plants;  by  applying  with 
an  ordinary  whisk  broom  it  will  take  care  of  fifty 
plants  and  can  be  done  as  well,  but  it  requires  more 
time  in  applying  than  with  the  sprayer.  Spray  three 
days  in  succession. 

By  this  tune  the  ground  will  naturally  need  weed- 
ing.   It  seems  hardly  necessary  to  go  into  details 

178 


Fit;.  33 
Aphis  at  work  on  the  young  shoots. 


FIG.  35 


FIG.  34 
At  the  left,  thrip  on  the  under  side  of  the  leaves;  at  the  right,  the  results  of  the  thrip's 

inroads  showing  on  the  upper  side  of  the  foliage 
Both  these  enemies  easily  destroyed  by  use  of  tobacco  water 


CULTIVATION 

regarding  the  proper  method.  An  ordinary  scratch 
hoe,  as  the  gardener  terms  it,  will  quickly  take  out 
the  weeds  and  also  destroy  some  of  those  not  yet 
up.  Care  must  be  taken  not  to  hurt  the  rose  roots. 

As  the  days  become  warmer  and  the  ground  drier 
take  more  care  of  the  plants.  Keep  the  earth  broken 
up  in  the  beds  and  do  not  permit  it  to  form  a  hard 
cake  or  crust,  as  it  will  do  if  left  alone.  This  breaking 
up  should  be  done  twice  a  week.  In  addition  to 
this  consider  feeding  the  roses  further  for  the  very 
best  blooms.  For  this  purpose  ordinary  manure 
water,  as  described  above,  is  the  best  possible  food 
and  perhaps  easiest  to  secure  in  most  places.  When 
the  roses  are  fully  formed,  withhold  manure  water 
until  after  the  first  crop,  apply  again  as  each  suc- 
ceeding crop  of  buds  commences  to  develop.  Roses 
need  a  slight  rest  between  crops.  If  a  mulch  has 
been  used,  there  will  be  very  little  weeding  and  no 
breaking  up  of  dried  earth  necessary  and  the  moisture 
should  be  well  conserved  in  the  beds. 

Watering  is  necessary  in  very  dry  weather  if  the 
ground  becomes  thoroughly  baked,  but  never  water 
late  in  the  day.  The  plants  should  go  to  sleep  with 
dry  foliage,  otherwise  mildew  will  develop.  Roses 
should  always  be  watered  early  in  the  morning  before 
the  temperature  rises — it  is  unnatural  to  water  them 
during  heat — they  are  accustomed  to  cool  tempera- 

179 


OUTDOOR  ROSE  GROWING 

ture  with  rain.  Mildew  is  a  disease  of  the  leaves 
which  appears  when  there  is  too  much  moisture. 
The  use  of  peat  moss  will  render  watering  to  some 
extent  unnecessary. 

One  other  plague  to  watch  for  is  the  rose  slug, 
which  chews  the  leaves.  This  pest  must  be  destroyed 
by  a  stronger  preparation  than  tobacco  leaves,  as  it 
is  very  hardy  and  not  as  quickly  disposed  of  as  the 
little  green  bug.  The  very  best  remedy  is  powdered 
white  hellebore.  Make  a  solution  of  two  tablespoon- 
fuls  hi  a  bucket  of  boiling  water,  and  after  it  has 
cooled  apply  it  with  a  whisk  broom  under  the  leaves. 
For  the  larger  leaf  eaters  and  borers  it  is  necessary 
to  pick  by  hand. 

Watch  carefully  for  any  sprouts  of  the  Manetti  or 
other  stock,  on  which  the  roses  themselves  are  budded 
or  grafted.  The  cutting  off  of  these  suckers  from  the 
root  itself  is  the  proper  remedy  for  this  enemy  to  the 
growth  of  the  plant. 

Rose  bugs  or  beetles  are  really  the  worst  pests. 
The  only  cure  has  been  to  pick  by  hand,  dropping 
them  into- kerosene. 

Recently  some  growers  claim  success  with  the  following  kerosene 
emulsion: 

K  lb.  (202)  hard  soap. 

1  qt.  water. 

2  qts.  kerosene  oil. 

Dissolve  soap  in  hot  water  and  while  hot  add  the  oil  Shake  5 
to  10  minutes  in  jug  until  it  becomes  a  creamy  mass. 

Use  1  qt.  emulsion  to  6  qts.  water.  Spray  roses  from  May  1st  to 
June  15th  every  week,  also  spray  ground  under  rose  bushes. 

180 


FIG.  36 
This  borer  has  been  taken  from  the  hole  in  which  he  had  concealed  himself 


Fia.  37 
Commencement  of  work  by  the  rose  slug,  showing  two  of  his  kind 


Fia.  38 

Two  other  leaf  eaters  and  their  destruction 
Powdered  hellebore  is  best  for  the  slug— the  other  pests  should  be  picked  by  hand 


CULTIVATION 

For  larger  quantities: 
%  Ib.  hard  soap. 

1  gallon  water. 

2  gallons  kerosene  oil — shake  as  before. 
Use  3  gallons  emulsion  to  17  gallons  water. 

At  the  end  of  this  chapter  will  be  found  a  list  of 
recipes  for  the  diseases  of  roses. 

So  the  plants  work  on  through  the  hotter  part 
of  the  summer  and  now  towards  its  close  the  nights 
commence  to  become  cooler  and  the  days  are  still 
quite  warm;  the  air  itself  is  very  moist  and  humid. 
This  occurs  usually  in  the  latter  part  of  August,  and 
this  change  from  eighty  degrees  or  more  in  the  day- 
time to  sixty  degrees  or  less  in  the  night  is  one  which 
the  rose  foliage  does  not  like.  When  there  is  also 
great  humidity  mildew  is  liable  to  occur.  A  good 
remedy  is  grape  dust,  which  can  be  obtained  in  any 
seed  store.  Another  fine  remedy  is  a  solution  of 
sulphide  of  potassium,  one-quarter  of  an  ounce  to 
a  gallon  of  water,  to  which  add  one  and  one-half 
ounces  of  common  soft  soap  or  one-half  ounce  of 
Fels-Naphtha  soap.  The  soap  should  be  boiled  be- 
fore being  added  to  the  solution.  Always  spray  early 
in  the  morning,  and  if  mildew  has  already  appeared, 
spray  early  hi  the  morning  after  each  heavy  rain. 
During  the  past  year  Bordeaux  Mixture  has  proved 
the  best  preparation  for  the  prevention  of  mildew. 
This  may  be  purchased  already  mixed  and  with 
directions  for  use,  at  any  seed  store. 

181 


OUTDOOR  ROSE  GROWING 

Black  spot  is  another  disease  which  sometimes 
comes  towards  the  end  of  the  summer.  It  is  experi- 
enced mostly  in  potted  greenhouse  plants.  If  only 
dormant  field-grown  stock  is  used  the  disease  is 
not  so  prevalent.  Dr.  Huey  concurs  in  this  opinion 
and,  as  a  cure,  advocates  picking  off  and  burning 
affected  leaves  as  soon  as  they  appear.  Last  year  a 
formaldehyde  solution  was  used  with  fair  success, 
but  black  spot  is  most  difficult  to  eradicate. 

The  "American  Florist,"  hi  its  issue  of  June  14, 
1914,  has  a  very  interesting  article  on  black  spot 
treatment,  taken  from  publications  of  the  National 
Rose  Society  of  England.  The  main  point  in  the 
article  is  that  black  spot  is  a  fungous  disease  which 
invades  the  living  tissues  of  the  plant  and  there 
reproduces  itself  by  means  of  spores  on  the  leaves. 
To  combat  the  disease  formaldehyde  is  suggested 
and  is  supposed  to  be  absorbed  by  the  tissues  of 
the  plant  and  to  kill  the  spores  on  the  leaves.  This 
article  further  states  that  it  is  considered  advisable 
to  use  the  formaldehyde  as  a  spray,  not  only  on  the 
leaves  and  stems,  but  also  to  have  the  solution  reach 
the  plant  through  the  soil.  To  accomplish  this  result 
it  is  advised  that  "the  cool  of  a  calm  evening  in 
summer  when  the  soil  had  been  previously  loosened, 
and  moistened  if  necessary,  would  be  ideal."  In 
the  treatment  referred  to  above  it  is  necessary,  in 

182 


FIG.  39 

A  plant  which  has  lost  all  its  foliage  from  black  spot.     No  new  growth 
shows  and  the  plant  is  practically  in  a  dormant  condition 


FIG 


What  will  happen  if  the  leaf  eaters  are  left  undisturbed.     Note  how  low  this  plant  was 
pruned  and  the  fine  long  sterna  for  cut  flowers  resulting  from  such  treatment 


CULTIVATION 

order  to  secure  the  proper  results,  to  spray  as  soon 
as  the  buds  begin  to  open  early  in  the  spring,  and 
for  this  early  spraying  two  tablespoonfuls  of  com- 
mercial formaldehyde  are  diluted  in  a  gallon  of  water; 
for  later  spraying  when  the  plant  is  in  full  growth 
one-half  strength  is  used,  i.  e.,  one  tablespoonful  to 
a  gallon  of  water,  and  the  weaker  spray  used  at 
intervals  of  a  week  or  ten  days  through  the  growing 
season.  Where  black  spot  has  gained  a  firm  hold  on 
the  plants,  it  is  also  advocated  that  a  solution  of 
double  strength  be  used  in  February. 

Professor  L.  M.  Massey  and  Professor  Whetzel, 
of  Cornell,  are  making  investigations  of  diseases  of 
roses.  This  work  is  most  valuable  and  considerable 
progress  has  been  made  in  dividing  and  classifying. 
It  has  been  discovered  that  there  are  a  number  of 
different  diseases  which  have  generally  been  desig- 
nated as  black  spot. 

In  this  connection,  it  is  most  important  that  this 
research  be  given  all  the  help  possible  throughout 
the  country  by  rose  growers,  as  the  workers  are  most 
anxious  to  have  specimens  showing  diseases  on  rose 
bushes  sent  to  them.  It  would  be  best,  where  the 
entire  plant  is  affected,  to  send  the  plant  with  the 
roots,  but  the  soil  is  not  of  any  moment.  In  the  case 
of  leaves,  it  is  better  not  to  wet  them  but  to  place 

in  newspaper,  and  send  by  mail. 

183 


OUTDOOR  ROSE  GROWING 

It  has  been  thought  that  black  spot  was  merely 
a  ripening  of  the  leaves  of  the  plant,  and  a  natural 
condition.  At  Cornell  it  has  been  proved  that  black 
spot  is  absolutely  traceable  to  a  fungous  growth,  and 
Professor  Massey  is  quoted:  "The  organism  can  be 
isolated  at  will,  and  the  disease  readily  produced  by 
inoculations. " 

As  the  nights  become  still  colder  the  blooms  will, 
of  course,  take  longer  to  develop;  nevertheless  the 
roses  make  a  fight  to  give  flowers  and  the  late 
bloomers  continue  to  do  so  until  about  the  middle 
of  November.  From  the  middle  to  the  last  of  Novem- 
ber is  the  tune  roses  should  be  given  proper  winter 
protection. 

The  first  thing  to  do  with  all  ordinary  bushes  is 
to  cut  them  down  to  an  approximate  height  of  a  foot 
and  a  half.  They  will  nearly  all  die  down  to  this 
height  or  below  in  any  event,  and  by  cutting  off  the 
bushy  tops  damage  by  high  wind  is  prevented.  The 
mulch  should  at  this  tune  be  removed  and  saved 
for  the  following  spring. 

The  matter  of  hilling  up  has  been  noted,  but  is  so 
important  that  it  is  repeated.  It  consists  of  heaping 
the  ground  up  around  the  bush.  It  is  well  to  add 
some  top  soil  to  the  bed  and  hoe  this  up  in  a  little 
mound  around  each  plant  to  a  height  not  less  than 
six  inches  above  the  bed  level. 

184 


CULTIVATION 

Mr.  H.  J.  Staples,  of  Biddeford,  Maine,  who  has 
tried  a  number  of  roses  advocated  in  our  former 
editions  with  very  good  success,  claims  that  in  his 
section  it  is  better  to  make  the  hills  around  the  roses 
twelve  inches  in  height.  By  this  method  he  lost  only 
twelve  out  of  seventy-five  roses  during  the  winter 
of  1915-1916.  It  is  also  interesting  to  note  that  he 
reports  the  blooming  of  the  roses,  with  very  few 
exceptions,  to  be  identical  with  the  records  given  for 
the  Middle  Atlantic  States. 

With  the  Hybrid  Perpetuals  and  the  very  hardiest 
of  the  Hybrid  Teas  this  hilling  up  is  not  really 
necessary,  but  there  are  very  many  beautiful  varie- 
ties which  must  be  brought  through  the  winter  by 
this  method. 

After  the  roses  are  hilled  up,  wait  until  the  ground 
freezes  before  placing  the  litter  on  the  beds.  No 
insects  or  mice  will  then  inhabit  it  during  the  winter 
and  injure  the  green  wood  of  the  canes.  Another 
good  way  is  to  fill  the  spaces  between  the  little 
mounds  with  autumn  leaves  or  meadow  hay,  with 
enough  earth  spread  over  the  top  to  keep  them  from 
blowing  away.  This  is  an  easy  method  and  undoubt- 
edly adds  warmth  to  the  beds. 

In  the  extreme  North,  the  best  protection  is  to 
lay  down  and  cover  with  waterproof  building  paper, 
which  in  turn  should  be  covered  with  earth. 

185 


OUTDOOR  ROSE  GROWING 

After  the  winter  is  over  it  is  better  to  remove  the 
litter  or  leaves  too  early  rather  than  too  late,  because 
they  will  rapidly  heat  up  under  the  influence  of  the 
warm  spring  sun  and  the  buds  of  the  rose  canes  will 
be  forced  into  breaking  too  early,  when  any  later 
heavy  frost  will  severely  kill  back  the  young  shoots 
so  started  by  the  heat.  It  is  therefore  advisable  to 
take  this  covering  from  the  roses  when  the  frost  is 
out  of  the  ground  and  before  the  heat  of  the  sun  be- 
comes great  and  lasting. 

Standard  roses  should  be  most  carefully  protected. 
Try  placing  around  them  a  rough  box  made  of  boards 
and  filling  it  with  earth,  covering  well  above  the 
junction  of  the  strong  growing  stalk  with  the  rose 
itself.  Another  good  method  often  used  is  to  bend 
down  the  entire  plant  after  carefully  loosening  the 
roots  and  to  place  it  in  a  trench  and  cover  it  heavily 
with  earth. 

Most  Hybrid  Wichuraiana  and  other  climbers  will 
come  through  the  winter  well  by  themselves.  Others, 
however,  winter  kill  more  or  less,  not  enough  to  kill 
the  plant  itself  but  to  destroy  parts  of  the  main  stems. 
The  Wichuraiana  climbers  bloom  upon  the  wood  of 
the  preceding  year,  and  if  such  wood  is  lacking  and 
the  rose  has  to  throw  up  new  shoots  there  will  be 
no  bloom.  If  the  main  shoots  are  killed  back  the 
few  existing  blooms  will  be  low  down,  so  that  in 

186 


CULTIVATION 

the  far  north  it  would  be  well  to  bend  down  the  canes 
and  protect  them  with  the  usual  blanket  of  earth 
and  waterproof  building  paper. 

RECIPES  FOR  THE  DISEASES  OF  ROSES 

Below  are  extracts  from  the  best-known  authori- 
ties, giving  their  recipes  for  mildew,  black  spot, 
rust,  etc. 

"THE  ROSE  BOOK"  (Page  211).  H.  H.  THOMAS  suggests  using  a 
mixture,  for  mildew,  of  equal  parts  of  fine  quicklime  and  sulphur 
dusted  on  the  affected  areas. 

"ROSES,  THEIR  HISTORY,  DEVELOPMENT,  AND  CULTURE"  (Page 
303).  PEMBERTON  advocates  the  same  dusting  and  also  gives  the 
following:  1  Ib.  flowers  of  sulphur,  1  Ib.  powdered  quicklime. 
Add  sufficient  water  to  form  a  paste.  Add  one  gallon  of  cold 
water.  Boil  for  twenty  minutes  and  when  cool  pour  off  the 
liquid  and  spray  at  the  rate  of  half  a  pint  of  the  above  mixture 
to  six  gallons  of  water. 

(Page  303).  PEMBERTON  recommends  1%  Ibs.  of  Calvert's 
carbolic  soft  soap  in  73/6  quarts  of  water — a  pailful;  spray  with 
one  part  of  mixture  to  three  parts  of  soft  water,  and  he  adds, 
"this  is  the  remedy  we  apply." 

" ROSES  AND  ROSE  GROWING"  (The  Macmillan  Co.),  (Pages  137- 
138).  Miss  KINGSLEY  advocates  flowers  of  sulphur  for  mildew, 
distributed  by  a  pair  of  powder  bellows,  and  suggests  applying 
before  mildew  appears.  She  uses  Quassia  Chips  for  Aphis,  and 
recommends  picking  by  hand  for  caterpillars. 

"THE  ROSE"  (Page  89).  ELLW  ANGER'S  recipe  for  mildew  is  sulphur 
and  soot,  applied  while  the  dew  is  on  the  plants  so  that  it  will 
adhere. 

"ROSES"  (Page  52).  The  Garden  Library  of  Doubleday,  Page  & 
Company  suggests  for  black  spot  carbonate  of  copper  com- 
pound, using  five  ounces  of  copper  compound  to  three  quarts 
of  ammonia  and  sixty  gallons  of  water.  The  spraying  should 
be  done  once  a  week,  using  a  hose  with  a  nozzle  that  gives  a 
fine  spray. 

"PICTORIAL  PRACTICAL  ROSE  GROWING"  (Pages  80-84).  WRIGHT 
does  not  mention  black  spot,  but  the  reference  made  to  orange 
fungus  or  red  rust  is  that  it  develops  into  black  rust,  possibly 
the  same  as  the  well-known  black  spot.  This  article  is  so  clear 
that  it  is  quoted  verbatim. 

"When  the  experienced  rose  grower  observes  orange-yellow 
spots  on  the  leaves  of  his  plants  in  early  summer,  he  knows  that 
187 


OUTDOOR  ROSE  GROWING 

he  sees  the  advance  guard  of  the  fungoid  disease  known  vari- 
ously as  orange  fungus  and  red  rust. 

"Some  suppose  these  to  be  separate  diseases;  on  the  contrary 
they  are  separate  stages  in  the  triune  life-cycle  of  disease, 
Phragmidium  subcorticatum.  The  first,  or  jEcidium,  stage  gives 
the  orange  fungus;  the  second,  or  Uredo,  stage  gives  the  red 
rust;  the  third,  or  Teleuto,  stage  gives  a  black  rust. 
"Where  the  orange  fungus  has  obtained  a  strong  hold,  and  has 
caused  trouble  for  several  successive  years,  it  cannot  be  exter- 
minated at  a  single  attempt.  Repeated  attacks  on  it  must  be 
made.  Measlires  may  begin  by  spraying  the  bushes  thoroughly 
in  the  spring,  before  growth  starts,  with  Bordeaux  mixture. 
"Bordeaux  Mixture. — To  prepare  Bordeaux  mixture  take  2J^  Ibs. 
of  sulphate  of  copper  (bluestone),  dissolve  in  a  little  hot  water; 
2^  Ibs.  of  freshly  burned  lime,  dissolve  in  cold  water;  1  Ib.  of 
agricultural  treacle,  1  Ib.  of  soft  soap.  Pour  together  when 
cool;  stir  the  treacle  or  soft  soap  well  in  and  make  up  to  twenty- 
five  gallons  with  water. 

"When  the  first  signs  of  the  disease  appear  in  summer,  spray 
with  carbarn,  repeating  if  necessary.  The  solution  should 
reach  the  under  as  well  as  the  upper  side  of  the  leaves. 
"To  prepare  carbarn,  take  1  ounce  of  carbonate  of  copper, 
J^  pint  of  liquid  ammonia.  Dissolve  the  carbonate  of  copper 
in  the  ammonia  and  mix  with  ten  gallons  of  water." 

Mr.  E.  M.  Rosenbluth,  of  Wallingford,  Pennsyl- 
vania, claims  that,  in  planting,  by  placing  one  large 
handful  of  coarse  sand  and  three  handfuls  of  char- 
coal directly  under  the  roots,  varieties  which  ordi- 
narily lose  then*  foliage  early,  will  hold  the  same 
quite  well  to  the  end  of  the  season. 

One  point  that  all  authorities  seem  to  agree  upon 
is  the  picking  and  burning  of  all  dead  and  fallen 
leaves  affected  by  black  spot. 

During  1915  there  has  been  a  new  pest — the  larvae 
of  the  white  tussock  moth;  this  insect  is  greenish 
brown  with  yellow  markings,  like  a  small  caterpillar. 
At  first  it  is  less  than  one-quarter  inch  but  grows 

188 


CULTIVATION 

rapidly  as  it  eats  the  leaves.  Hand  picking  is  the 
safest  remedy. 

During  the  past  year  Alphano  Humus  has  been 
used  by  some  growers  with  marked  success.  It  may 
be  placed,  in  conjunction  with  bone  meal,  around 
the  roots  when  the  rose  is  planted,  and  also  applied 
as  a  top  dressing  during  the  growing  season. 

At  the  end  of  the  season  in  order  to  destroy  any 
chance  of  rose  scale  and  also  as  an  additional  pre- 
ventive against  black  spot,  the  following  solution 
should  be  made  and  applied  to  the  rose  bushes  after 
the  tops  have  been  cut  off : 

2  Ibs.  sulphur 

1  Ib.  unslaked  lime 

1  gallon  water 

Boil  one  hour  and  add  7  gallons  of  water. 

Spray  the  upper  parts  but  apply  with  a  stiff 
brush  near  the  roots. 


X 

SOME  GENERAL  INFORMATION  AND 
HINTS  ON  HYBRIDIZATION 

In  the  climate  of  the  Middle  Atlantic  States,  it 
is  not  possible  to  grow  some  of  the  roses  which  suc- 
ceed so  wonderfully  in  the  south  of  England  and  in 
France.  However,  there  is  a  vast  area  in  the  United 
States  in  which  all  of  those  more  delicate  roses  may 
be  successfully  grown,  more  particularly  in  the  south- 
east and  southwest;  in  fact  in  every  part  of  our  great 
country  where  there  is  little  frost  all  these  wonderful 
Teas  and  Climbing  Teas  and  Noisettes  may  be  suc- 
cessfully cultivated.  In  addition  to  which  the  Hybrid 
Teas  will  be  found  fine  for  garden  cultivation,  while 
the  Hybrid  Tea  Climbers  and  many  of  the  weaker 
Hybrid  Polyantha  Climbers  will  also  do  well. 

In  the  very  coldest  climates  the  best  method  is 
to  grow  in  good-sized  pots  or  boxes,  and  in  the 
autumn  when  frost  comes  move  to  a  cellar  or  building 
where  extreme  cold  will  not  penetrate.  In  the  case 
of  a  cellar  with  an  earthen  floor  the  pots  can  be  placed 
beneath  the  surface.  The  only  thing  necessary  dur- 
ing the  winter  is  to  give  the  plants  several  waterings. 
In  the  spring  the  rose  pots  or  boxes  should  be  carried 
out  and  again  placed  beneath  the  surface  of  the  soil 

190 


GENERAL  INFORMATION 

in  their  old  bed  and  as  the  rose  increases  in  size  a 
larger  pot  must  be  provided.  Roses  are  being  grown 
on  the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence  where  the  temperature 
reaches  forty  degrees  below  zero;  they  are  protected 
during  winter  by  the  device  of  covering  each  bush 
with  a  small  keg,  filled  with  earth.  The  Hybrid 
Perpetuals  do  best  in  this  locality;  even  the  strongest 
of  the  Hybrid  Teas  tried  give  poor  results.  In  the 
more  moderate  climate  of  the  Middle  Atlantic  States 
and  in  approximate  temperatures  it  would  be  possible 
to  grow  many  of  the  more  delicate  roses  with  the 
heaviest  whiter  protection. 

One  of  the  best  means  of  protecting  roses  from 
the  cold  and  the  wind  is  a  good  brick  or  stone  wall. 
It  is  expensive,  but  even  a  low  wall  will  make  it 
possible  to  grow  the  smaller  Teas,  and  a  four-foot 
wall  would  be  of  great  use  hi  protecting  low  bushes 
from  the  heavy  winds,  while  with  a  six-  or  eight-foot 
wall  it  would  be  possible  to  care  for  the  wonderfully 
blooming  Climbing  Teas.  The  tender  Cherokee  rose 
is  being  successfully  grown  near  Philadelphia  on  the 
south  side  of  a  wall.  The  ideal  exposure  would  be 
a  wall  facing  the  south  or  southeast  and,  as  the 
whiter  approaches,  the  climbers  could  be  taken  down 
from  their  fastenings  on  the  wall  and  covered  over 
with  earth  and  the  smaller  roses  cut  back  and  heavily 
covered.  In  an  ideal  rose  garden,  with  such  a  wall 

191 


OUTDOOR  ROSE  GROWING 

completely  surrounding  it,  there  would  be  a  great 
opportunity  not  only  for  the  proper  growing  of  many 
of  these  very  beautiful  varieties  which  otherwise  one 
cannot  hope  to  raise,  but  by  utilizing  both  sides  of 
the  wall  it  would  be  possible  to  bring  roses  into 
bloom  at  different  tunes.  On  the  north  side  only  the 
very  hardiest  of  the  climbing  roses  would  do  at  all 
well.  Wichuraianas  and  hardy  Polyanthas  would  be 
roses  to  try,  and  if  four  such  roses  of  the  same  variety 
were  planted  on  four  different  exposures  they  would 
come  into  bloom  at  various  tunes,  thus  lengthening 
the  period  of  bloom. 

A  difference  in  soil  and  situation  affects  the  time 
of  bloom  to  some  extent.  A  north  slope  will  come 
in  slightly  later  than  a  southern  exposure;  but  in 
colder  sections,  and  particularly  in  sections  where 
late  frost  is  liable  to  occur  after  growth  is  started,  a 
north  slope  is  a  safe  exposure.  In  such  a  situation 
the  early  spring  sun  will  not  reach  the  roses  as  it 
would  on  a  southern  slope,  and  they  will  not  be 
forced  into  growth  only  to  be  killed  back  afterwards 
by  the  late  frosts.  It  has  been  well  proved  that  high 
ground  will  not  have  as  much  frost  as  low,  well- 
sheltered  ground,  for  in  the  latter  the  frost  will  settle 
hi  the  late  spring  and  cause  damage,  whereas  on  the 
high  ground  the  air  will  have  free  access  and  will 

192 


r 


l 


If 


II 


GENERAL  INFORMATION 

not  allow  the  frost  to  remain,  as  it  seems  to  do  in 
low-lying  ground. 

Proximity  to  the  ocean  or  any  large  body  of  water 
often  gives  a  more  even  temperature  than  is  found 
in  inland  sections.  Near  the  sea  coast  of  New  Eng- 
land, where  cool  summers  are  encountered,  wonder- 
ful beauty  is  shown  by  many  roses. 

There  is  a  very  interesting  list  of  roses  for  the 
locality  of  Chicago  published  in  "How  to  Make  a 
Flower  Garden,"  hi  which  Mr.  W.  C.  Egan  gives 
his  experience  with  roses  near  Jackson  Park,  Chicago. 
From  the  list  which  he  selects  it  would  seem  that 
the  hardiest  Hybrid  Teas  would  do  well  there,  as 
his  article  included  with  the  Hybrid  Perpetuals  sev- 
eral Hybrid  Teas  and  Teas  which  are  not  among 
our  hardiest  varieties. 

On  the  Pacific  Coast  roses  do  wonderfully  well. 
In  Santa  Barbara,  California,  they  come  into  bloom 
before  Christmas,  and  the  growing  season  there 
begins  after  the  period  of  summer  drought;  what  we 
hi  the  East  would  call  early  autumn  is,  in  reality, 
spring  in  southern  California.  Farther  north  on  the 
Pacific  Coast  roses  are  most  successful. 

Professor  R.  T.  Stevens,  of  the  University  of  Cali- 
fornia, in  his  very  excellent  article  in  the  American 

Rose  Annual  for  1916,  gives  the  following  informa- 

193 


OUTDOOR  ROSE  GROWING 

tion  which,  with  the  permission  of  the  editor,  Mr. 
McFarland,  is  quoted  verbatim: 

"As  most  people  know,  roses  even  in  California 
demand  a  period  of  rest  if  the  best  results  are  to  be 
obtained.  California  winter  temperatures  are  not 
low  enough  to  produce  the  necessary  degree  of  dor- 
mancy, and  the  rose  bush,  if  irrigated  during  the 
summer,  will  produce  an  ordinary  grade  of  bloom 
more  or  less  throughout  the  year,  depending  on  the 
type  of  rose.  On  the  other  hand  it  will,  in  most  cases, 
not  only  fail  to  furnish  the  finest  blooms,  but  will 
soon  deteriorate  and  die  prematurely,  due  to  the  con- 
tinual forcing  of  growth.  It  has  become  customary, 
therefore,  to  force  dormancy  upon  the  plants  by 
withholding  water  in  midsummer,  a  tune  when,  be- 
cause of  dry  weather,  few  good  blooms  are  produced. 
Toward  the  close  of  the  spring  crop,  or  about  the 
first  of  July,  depending  on  the  condition  of  the  soil, 
water  is  withheld  from  the  plants  until  the  first  of 
September.  They  are  not  allowed  to  suffer,  but  made 
to  ripen  their  wood  and  recuperate  from  the  strain 
of  the  season's  bloom. 

"During  August  the  plants  are  gone  over  and  all 
stubs  and  weak  growth  removed,  after  which  a  heavy 
mulch  of  cow-manure  and  a  liberal  amount  of  water 
are  applied.  Irrigation  is  kept  up  until  the  first  new 
bud  is  blown,  when  it  may  be  discontinued  to  allow 

194 


GENERAL  INFORMATION 

the  wood  to  ripen  for  the  winter  pruning.  In  this 
manner  an  abundant  supply  of  fall  bloom  is  produced, 
almost  equal  to  that  of  spring,  while  at  the  same  tune 
the  plants  are  insured  against  an  early  deterioration. 

"Heavy  pruning  is  performed  in  January,  at  which 
tune  the  wood  of  the  previous  season's  growth  is 
well  ripened.  In  early  spring  the  beds  are  again 
mulched  and  the  plants  sprayed  with  Bordeaux  as 
a  preventive  against  mildew.  After  the  rains  have 
ceased,  the  garden  is  given  a  thorough  cultivation 
and  overhauling,  after  which  little  attention  is  re- 
quired until  the  summer  rest,  except  an  occasional 
irrigation,  followed  by  a  superficial  working  of  the 
soil.  Under  this  treatment  the  first  flowers  of  the 
spring  crop  appear  in  February  or  early  March,  and 
continue  until  about  the  first  of  July. 

* 'The  superiority  of  budded  roses  is  believed  to  be 
generally  recognized.  Some  types,  especially  Teas, 
are  too  weak  and  delicate  for  ordinary  outdoor  culture 
unless  worked  on  a  more  vigorous  root,  and  the 
majority  seem  to  be  more  or  less  improved  when  so 
treated.  Budded  plants  are  here  not  only  more  vig- 
orous and  longer-lived,  but  are  more  adaptable  to 
wet  and  poor  soil  conditions,  and  will  produce  larger 
and  earlier  flowers  in  greater  quantity  than  own- 
root  plants. 

'  'While  climbing  roses  are  widely  grown  in  California 

195 


OUTDOOR  ROSE  GROWING 

they  are  not  always  exhibited  to  the  best  advantage. 
Too  often  they  are  seen  covering  a  residence  instead 
of  a  structure  especially  built  for  such  purposes. 
The  possibilities  of  roses  of  the  Noisette  type,  used 
on  columns,  arbors  and  pergolas  as  ornamental  gar- 
den features,  are  great,  while  many  varieties,  as  the 
Cherokees,  Gloire  des  Rosomanes  and  Agrippina, 
prove  particularly  adapted  to  cover  fences  and  to 
serve  as  hedges.  Because  of  the  mild  climate,  climb- 
ing roses  are  apt  to  greatly  overgrow  then-  position 
and  often  become  unsightly  in  shape  and  appearance. 
Intelligent  pruning  and  thinning  are  necessary  to 
correct  these  conditions. 

"Roses  grow  easily  and  bloom  freely  in  this  equable 
climate,  but  it  is  believed  much  finer  and  more  satis- 
factory results  would  originate  from  a  close  study 
by  the  amateur  of  the  correct  culture  and  treatment 
of  the  various  types  of  roses  adapted  to  California, 
with  particular  reference  to  their  summer  rest." 

HINTS  ON  HYBRIDIZATION 

This  chapter  would  not  be  complete  without  fur- 
ther information  on  the  most  interesting  part  of  rose 
growing,  that  is,  hybridization  to  secure  new  varie- 
ties. The  books  noted  hi  the  chapter  on  propagation 
will  take  the  reader  very  thoroughly  through  this 
most  fascinating  subject,  and  they  should  be  secured 
by  any  one  who  proposes  to  attempt  such  work. 

196 


FIG.  41 

ROSE  WITH  PETALS  REMOVED,  SHOWING  THE  STAMENS  AND  ANTHERS 
WHICH  BEAR  THE  POLLEN 


FIG.  42 

SAME  ROSE  AS  FIG  41  WITH  MOST  OF  STAMENS  AND  ANTHERS  REMOVED, 
SHOWING  THE  STYLES  AND  PISTILS— THE  FEMALE  ORGANS 


GENERAL  INFORMATION 

It  will  be  found  by  the  person  who  wishes  to  have 
some  interesting  work  for  the  winter,  and  who  can 
give  up  part  of  his  greenhouse,  that  a  great  deal 
may  be  accomplished  even  in  a  limited  space.  A 
conservatory  would  also  give  one  an  opportunity  to 
make  interesting  experiments. 

The  Hybrid  Tea  list,  with  the  addition  of  Pernet- 
Ducher's  Pernetiana,  makes  this  section  of  outdoor 
roses  very  complete,  but  there  is  still  a  large  field 
to  work  upon,  particularly  in  the  climbing  section. 
Any  one  who  can  breed  a  hardy  seedling  climber 
which  will  bloom  reliably  from  frost  to  frost  will  be 
giving  the  rose  world  a  most  important  addition. 
By  securing  a  few  potted  plants  in  the  early  autumn, 
quite  a  number  of  crosses  could  be  made,  although 
the  chances  of  securing  what  is  desired  would  not 
be  as  great  as  if  one  had  more  plants  with  which 
to  experiment. 

As  most  of  the  books  state,  a  rose  will  become 
fertilized  with  its  own  pollen  more  quickly  than  by 
the  pollen  of  any  other  rose.  The  main  point  for 
success  is  to  watch  most  carefully  the  rose  which  is 
to  be  bred  so  that  before  the  pollen  becomes  ripe 
the  anthers  and  stamens  may  be  removed.  It  is 
very  easy  to  tell  when  the  pollen  is  ripe  because  it 
will  then  drop  in  small  yellow  particles  upon  the 
petals  of  the  rose,  and  if  one's  finger  is  rubbed  across 

197 


OUTDOOR  ROSE  GROWING 

the  anthers  the  yellow  dust  will  at  once  be  noticed. 
Pluck  off  the  petals  of  the  selected  rose  before  the 
pollen  reaches  this  stage.  After  the  petals  have  been 
removed  a  small  pair  of  scissors  should  be  used  to 
cut  off  the  anthers.  As  this  is  done  turn  the  rose 
and  only  take  off  the  stamens  from  the  under  side, 
thus  precluding  any  possibility  of  the  immature  pol- 
len reaching  the  pistils.  Some  few  of  them  will  be 
bent  over  and  not  yet  fully  developed,  and  these 
should  be  carefully  removed  from  the  plant  because 
later  on  they  will  be  dangerous  to  the  experiment. 
The  pollen  contained  on  such  anthers  if  kept  in  the 
sun  will  be  developed  and  can  be  used  on  any  other 
flower.  Having  prepared  the  seed  parent  or  female 
flower,  now  secure  the  pollen  from  the  other  parent 
selected.  If  the  plant  from  which  the  pollen  is  taken 
is  not  needed  for  a  seed  parent,  it  will  be  unnecessary 
to  secure  the  pollen  as  above  suggested,  but  the 
whole  flower  may  be  cut. 

All  authorities  agree  that  a  bright,  warm  day  is 
the  best  on  which  to  breed  roses,  as  in  damp,  cloudy 
weather  the  pollen  is  not  active.  When  the  pollen 
is  f ailing  from  the  anthers  in  small,  yellow  dust,  your 
rose  will  be  properly  fertilized,  it  being  only  necessary 
to  shake  the  pollen  on  to  the  pistils  of  the  rose 
selected  as  a  seed  parent  for  the  hybridizing  to  be 
complete. 

198 


FIG.  43 
SEED  POD  ON  A  HYBRID  TEA  ROSE  WHICH  HAS  BEEN  HYBRIDIZED 


GENERAL  INFORMATION 

After  roses  have  been  hybridized,  allow  the  seed 
pods  to  develop,  and  when  the  weather  becomes 
warm  in  late  spring  or  early  summer  take  the  plants 
from  the  greenhouse  or  conservatory  and  plant  the 
pots  in  soil  out-of-doors  to  enable  the  heps  to  mature 
properly.  In  order  to  protect  seed  pods  from  birds 
or  other  interference  it  is  advisable  to  cover  the 
hybridized  plants  with  wire  netting.  Towards  early 
autumn  the  seeds  should  be  taken  carefully  from  the 
heps  and  planted,  each  lot  being  kept  separate. 

In  mature  seeds  a  little  rose  plant  will  sprout  in 
a  month  or  thereabouts  with  greenhouse  care,  bottom 
heat,  and  carefully-selected  soil  for  germination.  In 
the  course  of  another  six  weeks  very  small  blooms 
will  appear  on  many  of  them,  with  the  exception  of 
the  cumbers. 

Commercial  firms  who  grow  new  varieties  of  out- 
door roses  at  once  bud  or  graft  on  Manetti  or  Briar 
stocks  to  propagate  the  wood. 

As  a  rule,  inside  grafting  is  not  done  the  latter  part 
of  the  winter,  the  sun  being  too  hot. 

Briar  as  a  stock  is  not  used  in  indoor  work,  as 
during  the  winter  it  "goes  to  sleep." 

For  these  reasons  seedlings  of  Wichuraiana,  of 
Rugosa  and  of  sorts  which  grow  especially  well  on 
their  own  roots  should  first  be  tested  on  their  own 
roots. 

199 


OUTDOOR  ROSE  GROWING 

For  a  temporary  inside  test,  budding  on  strong 
blooming  plants  will  be  found  to  give  quick  results. 

After  a  satisfactory  test,  the  surest  and  best 
method  to  increase  the  stock  is  to  bud  the  varieties 
outside  the  following  August.  The  plant  is  then 
ready  for  the  outdoor  ordeal  if  it  is  to  be  used  as  a 
garden  variety.  It  will  thus  be  seen  how  much  tune 
is  required  before  a  new  variety  may  be  passed  upon 
as  of  value. 

In  experiments  with  cuttings  and  with  budding 
it  was  found  that  while  the  information  contained 
in  the  text  books  on  these  subjects  seemed  very  com- 
plete, work  was  not  successful  until  instruction  was 
received  from  men  who  did  this  work  themselves. 
Cuttings  are  so  generally  used  in  greenhouse  work 
that  it  is  easy  for  anyone  who  wishes  to  make  them 
to  learn  at  first  hand  how  the  operation  is  accom- 
plished; but  they  are  only  valuable  for  the  hardiest 
varieties. 

Budding  is  more  difficult,  and  it  is  doubtful 
whether  it  would  pay  the  average  amateur.  Those 
who  desire  to  bud  on  a  large  scale  should  buy  the 
books  previously  referred  to,  in  which  the  descrip- 
tions are  most  accurate  and  thorough,  but  they 
should  also  take  a  lesson  from  some  practical  budder. 

The  disadvantage  of  budding  is  the  length  of  time 

required  to  secure  results.    It  is  necessary  in  the  fall 

200 


GENERAL  INFORMATION 

to  procure  seeds  of  the  stock  to  be  used.  There  is 
then  the  work  of  planting  these  seeds  in  February, 
taking  care  of  the  young  seedlings,  and  setting  them 
out  in  nursery  rows  as  soon  as  the  weather  is  suitable. 
Such  seedlings  are  ready  for  budding  in  August  of 
the  same  year.  After  they  have  been  budded  they 
are  ordinarily  left  until  the  following  spring  when, 
if  the  bud  takes,  flowers  will  be  produced.  These 
plants  can  be  moved  only  in  the  spring  at  great  risk, 
and  should  be  carried  over  in  the  nursery  beds  until 
the  fall,  when  they  may  be  moved.  It  therefore 
takes  a  year  from  the  tune  the  seed  is  gathered  before 
the  budded  plant  may  be  placed  in  its  garden  bed. 
Other  methods  are  to  procure  plants  or  cuttings  of 
the  stock  desired,  place  them  in  nursery  rows  in  the 
fall  or  following  spring,  and  bud  them  likewise  in 
August,  after  which  time  the  procedure  is  the  same. 

On  the  other  hand,  with  the  majority  of  field- 
grown,  budded  stock  selling  at  an  average  of  fifty 
cents  apiece,  the  amateur  may  secure  his  plants  in 
one  fall  and  have  bloom  the  following  spring,  thereby 
saving  a  year. 

A  quicker  method,  but  which  requires  the  use  of 
a  greenhouse,  is  to  have  the  stocks  budded  in  August, 
and  in  the  fall  when  the  plants  become  dormant, 
pot  and  give  greenhouse  care  during  the  winter.  Such 

plants  are  put  out  in  the  spring  after  the  season  is 

201 


OUTDOOR  ROSE  GROWING 

settled,  and  by  this  method  blooms  on  new  varieties 
and  tests  of  new  seedlings  are  quickly  secured.  The 
disadvantages  are:  First,  the  great  amount  of  care 
necessitated  by  the  greenhouse;  and  second,  the  fact 
that  after  the  plants  are  removed  to  the  garden  beds 
they  have  already  had  a  considerable  period  of 
growth  and  their  constitutions  are  impaired  by  the 
lengthened  outdoor  season  before  dormancy  again 
prevails  in  the  fall. 

All  this  work,  however,  is  most  interesting  for 
those  who  desire  to  go  into  rose  growing  to  the 
fullest  extent.  There  is  one  point,  not  generally 
mentioned  in  the  books  on  budding,  which  seems  to 
be  worth  recording.  Most  handbooks  advise  that 
after  the  bud  is  cut,  the  wood  be  removed  from  the 
bark  and  only  the  bark  with  the  small  immature 
bud  left.  This  result  is  obtained  by  a  quick  short 
jerk  which  severs  the  weak  and  immature  bud  from 
the  hard  wood  of  the  cane.  This  was  found  most 
difficult  to  accomplish,  as  unless  the  plant  was  in 
exactly  the  right  condition,  the  immature  bud  was 
often  broken.  The  men  who  taught  budding  did 
not  use  this  method,  but  after  cutting  the  bud,  shaved 
the  same  down  until  there  was  only  a  very  small 
portion  of  wood  left  with  a  large  surface  of  bark. 
In  this  shaving  down,  the  point  emphasized  was  that 

the  edges  should  be  as  clean  as  possible.     This  expla- 

202 


GENERAL  INFORMATION 

nation  will  be  understood  in  conjunction  with  any 
book  on  budding. 

Where  a  grower  is  unable  to  procure  additional 
plants  of  a  particular  rose  it  is  suggested  that  he  send 
wood  of  the  variety  to  the  nearest  nurseryman,  who 
can  bud  it  for  him. 

For  those  who  wish  to  grow  roses  for  exhibition, 
the  method  has  generally  been  to  bud  in  August  and 
cut  the  flowers  in  the  following  spring  from  the 
budded  growth,  as  the  first  or  maiden  bloom  on  such 
plants  is  usually  finer  than  that  on  two-  and  three- 
year-old  bushes. 


INDEX 


Admiral  Dewy  rose,  35 
Admiral  Ward  rose,  105 
Alice  Lemon  rose,  78 
Aimee  Cochet  rose,  35 
Alexandra  Zarifi  rose,  116 
Alex.  Hill  Gray  rose,  65,  78 
Alister  Stella  Gray  rose   (Noi- 
sette), 126 
Alpina    roses,    propagation   of, 

by  suckers,  17 

All-around  best  roses,  32-97 
American  growers,   advantages 

of  buying  from,  147 
American  Pillar  rose,  123 
Annchen  Muller  rose,  113 
Annie  Besant  rose,  78 
Antoine    Rivoire   rose,   35,  43, 

48,  154,  155 

Aphides,  or  green  flies,  178 
Ards  Rover  rose,  119 
Arethusa  rose,  115 
Ashes  as  a  fertilizer,  176 
Atropurpurea  rose,  112 
Autumn    planting,    advantage, 

150 
Aviateur  Bleriot  rose,  124 

B 

Baby  Ramblers,  117,  123 
Banksian  rose,  127,  131 
Bardou  Job,  116 
Baroness   Rothschild  rose,    110 
Beaute  Inconstante  rose,  78 


Beds,  care  of,  138 

composition,  136,  141 

design — suggestions,  135 

drainage,  142 

finished,  144 

for  autumn  planting,    145 

location    and    preparation, 

133,  137 

soil,  soils,  136,  143,  144 
Belle  Lyonnaise  rose  (tea),  126 
Belle  Siebrecht  rose,  36,  78 
Best  all-around  roses,  32,  97 
Betty  rose,  64,  79 
Black  spot,  cure  for,  182,  184, 

187 
Blanc  Double  de  Coubert  rose, 

112 

Blanche  Frowein  rose,    126 
Blanche  Moreau  rose,   114 
Blood  as  a  fertilizer,  177 
Bone  meal,  176 
Bouehe  rose,  117 
Bouquet  rose,  126 
Bourbon  Perpetual  rose,  30,  174 
Boytard      rose,      sport      from 

(Ecarlate),  25 
Breeding  new  varieties,  25 
method's  kept  secret,  34 
table  of  main  varieties,  30 
Briar,  63,  159 

stocks  for  budding,  41,  76 

160 

for  grafting,  24,  199 
Bridesmaid  rose,  35 


205 


INDEX 


Budded  roses,  20,  22,  23,  201 
advantages  of,  21,  22 
objections  to,  20 

Budding,  15,  18,  19,  22,  200 

Buds,  small,  removal  of,  177 

Bugs  or  beetles,  180 


Camoens     rose,     sport     from 

(Ecarlate),  25 

Captain  Hayward  rose,  109,  110 
Cardinal  rose,  57 
Carmine  Pillar  rose,  122 
Caroline   Testout  rose,   35,   55, 

119,  126,  166 
Cecile  Brunner,  climbing,   113, 

12'3,  132 

Cecile  Custers  rose,  79 
Celine  Fore&tier  rose,  126 
Ceres  rose,  125 
Characteristics     of     prominent 

roses,  32 
Chateau  de  Clos  Vougeot  rose, 

57,  62 

Cheerful  rose,  105 
China  roses,  108,  114,  174 
Chrissie  MacKeller  rose,  65,  70, 

117 

Christine  Wright  rose,  119 
Clarice  Goodacre  rose,  79 
Classification — maine  varieties, 

78-97 

Cleveland  rose,  105 
Clothilde  Soupert  rose,  113 
Climate,     American,     influence 

of,    on    European    roses,    38, 

40,   190 

Climbers,    38,    118,    121-125 
planting,    128 


Climbers,  pruning,  129 

Wichuraiana,   121 
Climbing      American      Beauty 

rose,  119 
Climbing      Clothilde      Soupert 

rose,  123 
Climbing     Hybrid     Tea     roses, 

118,  120,   122 
Climbing      Kaiserin      Augusta 

Victoria,   120 
Climbing   Lady  Ashtown   rose, 

12'0 

Climbing  Madame  Melanie  Sou- 
pert  rose,  120 
Climbing    Mrs.    W.    J.    Grant 

rose,  120 

Climbing  Richmond  rose,  126 
Cloth  of  Gold  rose,  126 
Colors  and  shades,  40,  42,  94 
Comte    G.    de   Rochemur   rose, 

56,  58 
Comtesse    de   Rafelis    St.   Sau- 

veur  rose,   105 
Comtesse    du    Cayla    rose,    79, 

117 
Conrad  Ferdinand  Meyer  rose, 

112 

Constance  rose,  79 
Coquette  de  Lyon  rose,  36 
Cordelia  rose,   126 
Countess   of    Shaftsbury    rose, 

79 

Crimson  Baby  Rambler,  12'3 
Crushed  stone  for  under-drain- 

age,  142 
Cultivation,  176 
Cutting,  of  flowers,  172,  173 
varieties  for,  50,  57,  64 


206 


INDEX 


Cutting  off  bushy  tops  in  late 

autumn,   184 

Cuttings,  15,  17,  18,  21,  200 
C.  W.  Cowan  rose,  60,  79 


Daily  Mail  rose,  64,  66,  164 
Damask  Hybrids,  30,  33 

propagation  of,   17 
Perpetual,  33 
Danae  rose,  125 
Dean  Hole  rose,  79 
Decorative    Hoses,    44,    57,    65, 

117,  128 
Diagram    showing    location    of 

each  rose  should  be  kept,  154, 

155 

Disbudding,  177 
Diseases,  177,  178 
remedies,  187 
Dr.  Gill  rose,  35 
Dr.  W.  Van  Fleet  rose,  121 
Dolly  Varden  rose,  112 
Dorothy  Page  Roberts  rose,  80 
Dorothy  Perkins  rose,  124 
Dorothy  Ratcliffe  rose,  80 
Double  Killarney  rose,  26 
Ducher  rose,  80 
Duchess  of  Albany  rose,  25 
Duchess  of  Sutherland  rose,  80 
Duchess  of  Wellington  rose,  64, 

65,  154,  155 
Duchess   of   Westminster   rose, 

80 

Duisburg  rose,  80 
Dmschki  rose   (see  Frau  Karl 

Druschki) 

Dwarfs     (bushes)     and    stand- 
ards, 38,  40 
Dwarf  Polyanthas,  113 


Earl  of  Warwick  rose,  80 
Ecarlate    rose,    a    sport    from 

Camoens,  25,  57,  63 
Edm6e  Metz  rose,  35 
Edu  Meyer  rose,  81 
Edward  Mawley  rose,  81 
Eliza  Robichon  rose,  124 
Ellen  Poulsen  rose,  113 
Ellen  Willmott  rose,  81 
Elli  Hartmann  rose,  64,  68 
Etincelante  rose,  81 
Etoile  de  France  rose,  81 
Etoile  d'Or  rose,  113 
Eugene  Beauharnais  rose,  115 
Eugene  Boullet  rose,  81 
Evangeline  rose,   124 
Evergreen  Gem  rose,  123 
Excelsa  rose,  124 


Fabier  rose,   115 

Farben  Konigin  rose,  81 

Feeding,  176 

Ferdinand  Jamin  rose,  35 

Fisher  Holmes  rose,  35,  110 

Flies,  green,   178 

Florence  Pemberton  rose,  81 

Flowers,  number  of,  in  a  season, 

163 

Foreword,  7 

Formaldehyde  for  spraying,  182 
Form,  100 

Fortune's  yellow  rose,  131 
Forty-eight  best  roses,  42 
Frau  Bertha  Kiese  rose,  81 
Frau  Karl  Druschki  rose,   35, 

43,  81,  109,  110,  111 


207 


INDEX 


Frau    Margrethe    Moller    rose, 

50,  52 

Frau  Math.  Noehl  rose,  82 
Friefrau  Ida  von  Schubert  rose, 

60 
Freiherr    von    Marschall    rose, 

82 
Frost,  protection  of  soil  from, 

for  late  autumn  planting,  145 
E.  R.  Patzer  rose,  82 
Furstin  von  Pless  rose,  127 


Galatea  rose,  125 
Gardenia  rose,  124 
Gartendirector    Hartrath    rose, 

82 
General  Jacqueminot  rose,   34, 

122 
'General    MacArthur    rose,    28, 

57,  60,  154,  155 
General- Superior    Arnold    Jan- 
sen  rose,  82 

Geoffrey   Henslow   rose,    110 
George  Arends  rose,  110 
George  C.  Waud  rose,  57,  59 
George  Elger  rose,  113 
George  Laing  Paul  rose,  35 
Gloire  de  Dijon  rose,  126 
Gloire  de  Chedane  Guinoisseau 

rose,  110 

Gloire  Lyonnaise  rose,  110 
Gloire  des  Rosomanes  rose,  196 
Golden  Meyer  rose,  105 
Goldfinch  rose,  122,  124 
Gorgeous  rose,  106 
Grace  Molyneux  rose,  82 
Grafting,  15,  23,  24 
Grange  Colombe  rose,  44 


Green  flies,  destruction  of,  178 
Greenhouse    for    hybridization, 

31 
Grossherzog  Friedrich  rose,  50, 

51 

Ground,  cultivation,  179 
Gruss     an    Aachen     rose,     47, 

113 
Gruss  an  Teplitz  rose,  57,  62, 

117,  127 
Gustav  Grunerwald  rose,  82 

H 
Harry  Kirk  rose,  64,  65,  109, 

128 

Habit,   101 
Hadley  rose,  106 
Hansa  rose,  112 
Heinrich  Schultheis  rose,  sports 

from,  27 

Helen  Good  rose,  83 
Hermosa  rose,  83 
Herzogin  Marie  Antoinette  rose, 

83 

H.  F.  Eilers  rose,  83 
Hiawatha  rose,  28,  122,  124 
Hilling  up  late  in  autumn,  184, 

185 

Hoeing,  179 
Hon.   Ina   Bingham  rose,   110, 

137 

Hoosier  Beauty  rose,  106 
Hugo  Roller  rose,  83 
H.  V.  Machin  rose,  83 
Hybrid  Austrian  Briars    (Per- 

netianas),  37,   114 
Bourbon  rose,  114 
China  roses,  22,  30,  33,  108, 
114 


208 


INDEX 


Hybrid  Perpetual  roses,  22,  26, 
27,  29,  30,  33,  34,  36,  37, 
43,  108,  109,  111,  132, 
153,  173,  185,  191,  193 

Perpetual  roses,  ancestors 
of,  29,  30 

Tea  roses,  22,  26,  27-30,  36, 
37,  39,  41,  43-55,  58-70, 
105,  111,  114,  116-120, 
127,  128,  153,  160,  163, 
166,  185,  193 

Tea  climbers,  132,  190 

Polyanthas,  122,  129,  132, 
190 

Rugosa  rose,  112 

Wichuraiana     roses,     131, 

132,  186 

Hybridization,  29,  30,  190,  196 
Hybrids,  seeds  from,  useless,  16 


Japanese  Multiflora,  stocks  for 

budding,  19,  149 
Jean  Note  rose,  83 
Jean  Girin  rose,  125 
Jessie  rose,  113 
Joseph  Hill  rose,  83,  154,  155 
Juliet  rose,  84 


Kaiserin  Augusta  Victoria  rose, 

36,  84,  121 

Katherine  Zeimet  rose,  113 
Key  to  classification,  79 
Killarney  rose,  40,  54,  154,  155 
new        varieties        of 

(sports),  25 

Killarney  Brilliant  rose,  84 
Killarney  Queen  rose,  84 
Konigin  Carola  rose,  84 


Imogen  rose,  106 
Indica  Odorata  rose,  30 
Individual  qualities,  98 
Information,  general,  190 
Irish  Beauty  rose,  116 
Irish  Brightness  rose,  116 
Irish  Elegance  rose,  116 
Irish  Glory  rose,  116 
Irish  Harmony  rose,  116 
Irish  roses,  single,  117 


Jacqueminot  rose   (see  General 

Jacqueminot ) 

Jacques  Porcher  rose,  44,  45 
Jacques  Vincent  rose,  83 


La  Detroit  rose,  35 

La  France  rose,  2'5,  33,  36,  50, 

56,   137 
dark,  25 

La  Tosca  rose,  44,  49 
Lady  Alice  Stanley  rose,  50,  53 
Lady  Ashtown  rose,  50,  84 
Lady  Barham  rose,  84 
Lady  Battersea  rose,  84 
Lady  de  Bathe  rose,  85 
Lady  Downe  rose,  85 
Lady  Dunleath  rose,  85 
Lady  Greenall  rose,  85 
Lady  Hillingdon  rose,  85 
Lady  Katherine  rose,  85 
Lady  Margaret  Boscawen  rose, 

85 
Lady  Mary  Fitzwilliam  rose,  35 


209 


INDEX 


Lady  Mary  Ward  rose,  85 
Lady  Penzance  rose,  115 
Lady  Pirrie  rose,  64 
Lady  Plymouth  rose,  64,  69 
Lady  Ursula  rose,  85,  117,  127, 

128 

Laurette  Messimy  rose,  115 
Le  Mexique  Wichuraiana  rose, 

125 

Lena  rose,  86 
Leonie  Lamesch  rose,  113 
Leuchfeuer  rose,  115 
Lieutenant  Chaure  rose,  57,  61 
Liquid  manure,  177 
Litter    for    winter    protection, 

185,  186 
Location    and    preparation    of 

beds,  133 

Lord  Penzance  rose,  115 
Los  Angeles  rose,  106 
Louise-Catiherine  Breslau  rose, 

86 

Louise  Welter  rose,  86 
Lucida   roses,    propagation   of, 

from  suckers,  17 
Lucien  Chaure  rose,  86 
Ludwig    Moller    rose     (yellow 

Hybrid  Perpetual),  111 
Lutea  rose,  37 
Lyon  rose,  37,  87, 137 


Mabel  Drew  rose,  87 

Madame  Abel  Chatenay  rose,  87 

Madame  Alfred  Carriere  rose, 

126 

Madame  Bardou  Job  rose,  87 
Madame  Bravy  rose,  33,  34 
Madame  BSrard  rose,  34,  122' 


Madame  Caroline  Testout  (see 

Caroline  Testout) 
Madame  Charles  Dubreuil  rose, 

87 
Madame  Charles  Lutlaud  rose, 

87 
Madame   Charles   Worth   rose, 

112 
Madame  Colette  Martinet  rose, 

106 
Madame  Edme"e  Metz  rose,  35, 

87 
Madame  Edmond  Rostand  rose, 

87 
Madame  Edouard  Herriot  rose, 

37,66 

Madame  Eugene  Eesal  rose,  115 
Madame    Gabriel    Luizet    rose, 

110 
Madame  Hector  Leuillot  rose, 

121 
Madame  Jenny  Guillemot  rose, 

88 

Madame  Jules  Grolez  rose,  88 
Madame  Levavasseur  rose,  113 
Madame  Leon  Pain  rose,  52 
Madame  Marcel  Delanney  rose, 

106 
Madame  Maurice  de  Luze  rose, 

50,  53 
Madame  Melanie  Soupert  rose, 

64,68 
Madame  Phillippe  Rivoire  rose, 

88 

Madame  Ravary  rose,  88 
Madame  Rodolphe  Arnaud  rose, 

88 
Madame  Segond  Weber  rose,  50 

51 


210 


INDEX 


Madame  Vermorel  rose,  88 
Madame  Victor  Verdier  rose,  33 
Madame  Wagram,  Comtesse  de 

Turenne  rose,  88 
Mdlle.  Marie  '  Mascuraud  rose, 

88 
Mdlle.    Simone    Beaumez    rose, 

49 

Main  list  of  roses,  71,  78-97 
Majestic  rose,  89 
Maman  Cochet  rose,  65,  89 
Manetti  stocks  for  budding,  19, 

160 
Manetti  stocks  for  grafting,  24, 

199 

Manure,  157,  176,  177 
Marcella  rose,  106 
Marechal  Niel  rose,  126 
Margaret  Dickson  rose,  109,  110 
Margherita  Croze  rose,  89 
Marie-Jeanne  rose,  123 
Marie  Pavie  rose,  113 
Marie  Schmitt  rose,  89 
Marie  Van  Houtte  rose,  89 
Marquise  de  Ganay  rose,  89 
Marquise  de  Sinety  rose,  89 
Mary,     Countess    of    Ilchester 

rose,  89 
Mary  Lovett  rose    (white   Dr. 

Van  Fleet),  121 
Melanie  Niedieck  rose,  106 
Merveille  de  Lyon  rose,  35,  110 
Mevrouw  Dora  Van  Tets  rose, 

89 

Mildew,  180,  181 
Mireille  rose,  89 
Miss  Alice  De  Rothschild  rose, 

89 
Miss  Cynthia  Ford  rose,  90 


Miss  G.  Messman  rose,  123 
Miss  Muriel  Jamison  rose,  116 
Miss  O.  G.  Orpen  rose,  116 
Molly  Sharman  Crawford  rose, 

90 

Moonlight  rose,  125 
Mrs.  Aaron  Ward  rose,  67 
Mrs.  Ambrose  Riccardo  rose,  90 
Mrs.  Amy  Hammond  rose,  90 
Mrs.    Anthony    Waterer    rose, 

107 
Mrs.    Arthur    E.    E.    Coxhead 

rose,  90 

Mrs.  A.  R.  Waddell  rose,  65,  70 
Mrs.  Bertram  J.  Walker  rose, 

107 

Mrs.  B.  R.  Cante  rose,  57,  62 
Mrs.  Bosanquet  rose,  115 
Mrs.    Charles    Custis    Harrison 

rose,  90 

Mrs.  Charles  E.  Allen  rose,  90 
Mrs.  Charles  E.  Pearson  rose,  91 
Mrs.  Charles  Reed  rose,  91 
Mrs.  Charles  Russell  rose,  91 
Mrs.  David  Baillie  rose,  91 
Mrs.  David  Jardine  rose,  91 
Mrs.  Dudley  Cross  rose,  65,  91 
Mrs.  Edward  Powel  rose,  91 
Mrs.  E.  Townsend  rose,  91 
Mrs.  Forde  rose,  91 
Mrs.  Foley-Hobbs  rose,  91 
Mrs.  Frank  Bray  rose,  92 
Mrs.   Franklin   Dennison   rose, 

107 
Mrs.  Frederick  W.  Vanderbilt 

rose,  92 

Mrs.  Fred  Straker  rose,  92 
Mrs.  George  Dickson  rose,  110 
Mrs.  George  Gordan  rose,  107 


211 


INDEX 


Mrs,  George  Shawyer  rose,  50, 

54 

Mrs.  Harkness  rose,  27 
Mrs.  Harold  Brocklebank  rose, 

43,  48 
Mrs.  Herbert  Hawksworth  rose, 

47 

Mrs.  Hubert  Taylor  rose,  92' 
Mrs.  Hugh  Dickson  rose,  107 
Mrs.  John  Laing  rose,  109,  110 
Mrs.  Joseph  H.  Welch  rose,  92 
Mrs.  Leonard  Petrie  rose,  93 
Mrs.  Longworth  rose,  35,  93 
Mrs.  MacKellar  rose,    107 
Mrs.  Mona  Hunting  rose,  107 
Mrs.  R.  G.  Sharman  Crawford 

rose,   110 

Mrs.  Richard  Draper  rose,  93 
Mrs.  S.  T.  Wright  rose,  93 
Mrs.  T.  Hillas  rose,  93 
Mrs.  Wakefield  Christie-Miller 

rose,  93 

Mrs.  Walter  Easlea  rose,  93 
Mrs.  Ward  rose,  64 
Mrs.  W.  J.  Grant  rose,  36,  78 

climbing,  120 

Mrs.  Wemyss  Quin  rose,  93 
Molly  Sharman  Crawford  rose, 

90 

Moss,  138-141,  152,  180 
Moss  roses,  114 
Mulching  with  peat  moss,  138- 

141 

with  spent  hops,  141 
with  cut  grass,  141 
Multiflora,  41,  63,  76,  122 
Muriel  Dickson  rose,  107 
Musk  rose,  30 
My  Maryland  rose,  28,  94 


N 

Natalie  Bottner  rose,  64,  66 
National  Emblem  rose,  107 
Nellie  Parker  rose,  107 
New  varieties,  development,  25 
Noisette  roses,  30,  126,  128,  132, 

190,  196 
Novelty,  98 

O 

Odette  Pedriolle  rose,  94 
Old  Austrian  Briar  rose,  109 
Old  Gold  rose,  94 
Ophelia  rose,  43,  44,  45 
Ordering,  importance  of  care  in, 

146 

Orleans  rose,  113,  123 
Oskar  Cordel  rose,  109,  110 
Own-root  roses,  2'2 


Panama,  28,  107 
Paul  Neyron  rose,  109,  111 
Paul's  Early  Blush  rose,  26,  27 
Peat  moss  for  rose  beds,  138- 

141,  180 

Periods  of  blooming,  163 
Perle  von  Godesberg  rose,  94 
Pernetiana  rose,  22,  30,  37,  41, 

107,  109,  114,  197 
Perpetual  Hybrids,  22,  27,  29, 

30,  109,  111 
Persian  Yellow  rose,  16,  109 

briar  (Luteee),  30 
Pests,  178 

remedies,  178-180 
Petallage,  101 
Pharisaer  rose,  46 
Pinching  off  superfluous  blooms, 

173 


212 


INDEX 


Pink  Cherokee  rose,  127 
Planting,  beds,  and  preparation, 

133-137 
general    instructions,    133, 

134,  153,  155,  157 
late     autumn,     advantage, 

150 

of  climbers,  128 
rules  for,  136,  153,  156-159 
Plants,  acclimated,  148 
autumn,  145 

budded — field   grown — dor- 
mant, 147 
grafted — small,  39 
ordering  of,  146 
own  root,  22 
Polyantha,  47 
Polyantha  Aglaia  rose,  12'2 
Polyantha,  dwarf,  123 
Polyantha  Orleans  rose,   123 
Polyanthas,  climbing,  117,  122, 

123,  192 

President  Carnot  rose,  154 
President  W.  H.  Taft  rose,  94 
Primrose,  94 
Primula  rose,  113 
Prince  Charming  rose,  107 
Prince  Camille  de  Rohan  rose, 

111 

Prince  de  Bulgarie  rose,  94 
Prince     Mohamed     Ali     Pacha 

rose,  95 

Princess  Adelaide  rose,  114 
Principal  A.  H.  Pirie  rose,  95 
Propagation  by  suckers,  17 
established  varieties,  15 
new  varieties,  25 
Protection  from  autumn  frosts, 
184 


Protection,  general,  184 
of  standards,  186 
wall — wind — winter,   191 

Provence  hybrids,   propagation 
of,  from  suckers,  17 

Pruning,  general,   161-175 
in  late  autumn,  171 
rules  for,  175 
of  climbers,  129,  132 


Queen  Mary  rose,  95 
Queen  Mab  rose,  115 
Queen  of  Fragrance  rose,  108 
R 

Radiance  rose,  28,  50 
Ramona  rose,  127 
Rayon  d'Or  rose,  95 
Red  Admiral  rose,  95 
Red  Four  Seasons  rose,  30 
Red  Letter  Day  rose,  95 
Reine  Marie  Henriette  rose,  34, 

122 
Remedies,    pests   and   diseases, 

177,  178 

Red  Radiance  rose,  108 
Richmond  rose,  95 

climbing,  121 
Robert  Heller  rose,  95 
Robert  Huey  rose,  57,  58 
Robin  Hood  rose,  57,  59 
Rochemur  rose    (see  Comte  G. 

de  Rochemur) 
Rodhatte  rose,  113 
Roots   of   roses,   care   of,    152, 
158 

feeding  of,  176 

spreading  out,  156-158 


213 


INDEX 


Roots  of  trees,  protection  from, 

133 

Rosa  Moschata,  30 
Rosa  Rugosa  Alba,  112 
Rosa  Rugosa  Rosea,  112 
Rosa  Rugosa  Rubra,  112 
Rosa  Wichuraiana,   125 
Roses,  best  of  each  main  color, 
43  sq.,  71 

blooming,  101,  102 

breeding — main     varieties, 
32 

budded,  19,  23,  148 

budding,  19 

classification  of,  43-71 

climbers,  118 

color,  99 

cultivation,  176 

dwarfs,  38 

form,  73-98,  100 

foreign — color  varying,  40 

for  garden  decoration,  44, 
67 

fragrance  of,  99 
hardiness,  73,  102 
individual  qualities,  98 
in  California,  194 
pedigree,  34,  35 
sixteen  best,  41 
forty-eight   best,   42 
standards,  38,  186 
types  for  exhibition,  101 

(Rosita  Mauri  rose,  95 

Rugosas  and  their  hybrids,  112" 
for  the  far  north,  128 
propagated  by  suckers,  17, 

117 
stocks  for  budding,  20 


Rugosa  roses,  174,  199 

Rust,  187 

Rules  for  planting,  133 


Safrano  rose,  95 
Section,  light  colored,  43 

pink,  50 

red,  56 

yellow,  64 

Seedlings,  25,  27,  28 
Seeds,  established  varieties,  16 

hybrids,  16 

Senateur  Mascuraud,  64,  67 
Shape,  100 

Shoots  from  below  the  bud,  20 
Shower  of  Gold  rose,  126,  127 
Silver  Moon  rose,  125 
Single  roses,  115 
Sixteen  best  roses,  41 
Slugs,  destruction  of,  180 
Soleil  d'Angers  rose,  96 
Soleil  d'Or  rose,  96,  109,  111 
Soil,  most  suitable,  136 
Souv.  de  Gustave  Prat  rose,  96 
Souv.  de  M.  Verdier  rose,  35 
Souv.  du  President  Carnot  rose, 

43,  46,  121,  155 
Souvenir  of  Henry  Graham  rose, 

108 

Specimen  score  card,  104 
Spinosissima  roses,  propagation 

of,  by  suckers,  17 
Sports,  25 

rarity  of,  27 

valuable  novelties,  27 
Spraying  to  kill  aphides,  178 
Standards     and     dwarfs      (or 
bushes),  38 


214 


INDEX 


Standards,    protection    of,    in 

winter,  38,  186 
weeping,  38 
Staking,  163 
Stem,  103 
Stocks  of  plants  kept  on  sale, 

147 
Stocks,  Briar,  19,  24 

budded  —  dormant  —  field- 
grown,  acclimated,   147 
Japanese     nmltiflora,     19, 

149 

Manetti,  19,  24 
Rugosa,  17 
shoots  from,  below  the  bud, 

20 

Substance,  100 
Suckers,  17,  155 
Sunburst  rose,  96 
Suzanne     Marie     Rodocanachi 

rose,  111 
Sweetheart  rose,  28 

T 

Tausendschon  rose,  125 

Tea  roses,  22,  37,  38,  39,  153, 

160,  190,  193 
climbing,  118,  190-192 
Teplitz    rose     (see    Gruss    an 

Teplitz) 

Tipperary  rose,  108 
Titania  rose,  108 
Tongueing   (see  Layering),  16, 

17 
Turner's  Crimson  Rambler,  122 

U 

Ulrich  Brunner  rose,  111 
Under  drainage,  142 
Urania  rose,  109,  111 


Varieties,  best,  32',  41,  78  sq. 

established,  15 

introducers  of  new,  26 

main  list,  78-97 

new,  39 

propagation  of  new,  23,  25 
Veilchenblau  rose,  125 
Viridiflora  rose,  115 
Viscountess  Enfield  rose,  97 
Viscountess  Folfcstone  rose,  35 

W 

Waltham  Scarlet  rose,  97 
W.  A.  Richardson  rose,  127 
Watering,  140,  177,  179 
White  Killarney  rose,  97 
White  Maman  Cochet  rose,  97 
White  tussock  moth,   188,  189 
Wichuraianas,    119,    121,    192, 

199 

William  R.  Smith  rose,  97 
Wm.  Shean  rose,  97 
Wild  roses,  116 
Willowmere  rose,  97 
Wind  breaks,  134,  191 
Winter  Cheer  rose,  125 
Wintering  roses,    190    sq.;    re- 
ceived1 late  in  autumn,   147, 
148 
Wood  ashes  as  a  fertilizer,  176 


XavierOlibo  rose,  111 


Yvonne  Rabier  rose,  113 


215 


ROSE  DEVELOPMENT  FROM 

1917  TO  1920 


ROSE  DEVELOPMENT  FROM 
1917  TO  1920 

SINCE  the  fall  of  1916  a  number  of  very  interesting 
and  valuable  new  roses  have  appeared,  and  there 
are  other  important  changes  hi  rose  conditions 
in  America. 

Owing  to  lack  of  space,  information  relative  to 
such  advances  must  be  given  hi  outline.  All  the 
methods  already  described  have  proved  then:  worth; 
but  emphasis  must  again  be  laid  upon  the  superior 
value  of  the  budded  rose  for  outside  culture  as  com- 
pared with  the  own  root  plant,  except  hi  hardy 
climbers  and  some  other  very  vigorous  varieties. 

The  new  law,  restricting  foreign  importations, 
should  be  of  benefit  to  American  outdoor  rose 
lovers  for  three  reasons:  first,  it  will  stimulate  the 
production  of  new  American  roses;  second,  it  will 
cause  more  roses  to  be  propagated  outdoors  hi  this 
country  on  the  most  suitable  stocks;  third,  it  will 
keep  both  suitable  and  unsuitable  foreign  varieties 
from  being  imported  on  unsuitable  stocks. 

Already  fine  American  introductions  have  ap- 
peared, and  the  testing  of  these  is  amply  provided 
for  hi  the  new  test  garden  hi  Portland,  Oregon,  and 
by  other  test  gardens  throughout  the  country,  all 
of  which,  under  the  guidance  of  the  American  Rose 
Society,  are  of  the  utmost  value  to  the  future  of 
the  rose. 

219 


OUTDOOR  ROSE  GROWING 

One  new  stock,  Glorie  des  Rosomanes  (Ragged 
Robin)  has  been  tried  in  California  by  Howard  & 
Smith  of  Los  Angeles,  and  has  been  found  to  do 
well  there.  It  has  also  been  sold  throughout  the 
East,  and  so  far  has  a  good  record. 

Taking  up  the  classes  of  roses  in  order: 

Hybrid  Perpetuals  show  nothing  new. 

Hybrid  Teas  and  Pernetianas  have,  as  usual,  many  introductions, 
a  few  of  which  may  be  recommended. 

Among  the  indoor  roses  used  commercially  it  is  pleasing  to  find 
some  of  merit  for  outdoor  work,  and  here  the  future  holds  promise, 
especially  in  the  productions  of  E.  G.  Hill  of  Richmond,  Indiana. 

The  following  Hybrid  Teas  and  Pernetianas  may  be  recommended 
as  ranking  closely  with  the  first  forty-eight  noted  in  Chapter  II. 
The  list  given  includes  only  those  which  are  the  very  best  of  the 
new  roses,  or  which  have  improved  as  old  ones. 

In  the  light-colored  section  MBS.  MACKJELLAR  has  proved  to  be 
the  best  rose.  It  is  a  light  lemon  yellow  which  fades  to  cream 
flesh;  it  is  good  for  cutting  and  gives  a  total  of  twenty-eight  blooms; 
the  habit,  growth,  foliage  and  stem  are  all  good. 

MRS.  FRANKLIN  DENNISON,  catalogued,  "porcelain  white,  varied 
primrose  yellow  deepening  to  ochre  base,"  is  a  good  cutting  rose, 
with  good  stem;  twenty-two  petals;  gives  seventeen  blooms. 

CLARICE  GOOD  ACRE,  already  mentioned,  is  another  good  cutting 
rose;  but  is  a  shy  bloomer. 

Among  the  fight  decoratives,  GTJSTAVE  REGIS  comes  next  to 
BOUCHE.  It  is  best  in  spring  and  is  catalogued,  "wax  yellow  at 
base  of  petals,  cream  in  centre"'  a  single  rose  with  fine  bud  form, 
giving  over  fifty  blooms  during  the  season. 

The  new  rose,  PEACE,  is  a  smaller  grower,  besides  being  a  small 
rose;  but  it  gives  a  wonderful  September  bloom  and  totals  eighty- 
five  flowers  during  the  season;  its  form  and  substance  are  fair;  it 
has  a  total  of  forty-four  petals;  the  bud  is  yellow,  opening  lighter, 
sometimes  with  light  pink  markings. 

Among  the  pinks,  the  well-known  hot-house  rose.  COLUMBIA, 
stands  out  and  shows  distinct  merit;  it  averages  thirty  olooms  in  its 
second  season,  and  is  a  good  cutting  rose  of  wonderful  form  and 
fine  fragrance. 

Two  varieties  in  the  red  section  should  have  special  mention. 
RED  RELIANCE  closely  approaches  its  parent  ("Radiance,"  see  page 
50)  and  is  strong  and  hardy,  a  good  rose  for  all  purposes. 

BLOOMFIELD  PROGRESS  is  a  strong  red,  of  good  growth,  with  the 
color  of  MacArthur,  but  holding  its  centre  better  and  giving  a  larger 
flower  in  hot  weather;  tested  since  1914;  of  fan*  form  with  good 

220 


BLOOMFIELD  PROGRESS 
(Description  page  220) 


ROSE  DEVELOPMENT  FROM  1917  TO  1920 

perfume  and  stem,  and  an  average  of  fifty  blooms*;  it  holds  its  foliage 
well  and  blooms  until  stopped  by  frost. 

The  yellow  section  has  fortunately  produced  some  fine  new 
varieties.  Los  ANGELES,  already  spoken  of  under  "  New  Intro- 
ductions" has  made  a  fine  record.  It  is  a  flame  pink,  shaded  coral 
with  gold  at  the  base — a  new  color;  averages  here  in  its  second 
year  twenty-five  blooms;  but  has  the  fault  of  losing  its  foliage  early; 
it  needs  careful  whiter  protection,  especially  north  of  Philadelphia. 

MRS.  DUNLOP  BEST  is  an  attractive  orange  yellow  in  oud; 
lighter  when  opening;  it  has  thirty-six  petals  and  will  average 
thirty-five  blooms  in  its  second  year;  a  good  cutting  rose,  with  fine 
lasting  qualities  and  good,  bushy  habit;  must  be  placed  with  the 
best  of  the  Yellows. 

GOLDEN  EMBLEM  is  a  Pernetiana  of  dark  yellow  to  orange;  only  a 
fair  grower,  with  the  fault  so  general  to  its  class,  of  losing  its  f oliage 
early;  averages  twenty-one  blooms. 

JOHANNA  BRIDGE  displaces  Chrissie  MacKellar  as  the  best  yellow 
decorative.  This  rose  is  hardy  and  a  fine,  tall  grower  of  good  habit 
and  profuse  blooming  qualities;  it  is  a  single;  copper  pink  in  bud, 
turning  lighter  when  open;  it  averages  one  huno!red  blooms. 

In  the  new  types  of  more  or  less  ever-blooming,  hardy,  climbing 
pillar  roses,  the  following  are  the  best  as  noted:  other  roses  of  this 
class  have  failed  utterly;  the  first  four  were  bred  by  Rev.  J.  H.  Pem- 
berton  of  England,  who  has  done  so  much  for  the  rose  world,  and 
who  may  well  be  proud  of  the  record  his  productions  have  made 
in  America. 

MOONLIGHT. — Fairly  hardy;  should  have  winter  protection; 
growth,  six  feet  and  over;  small,  double,  white,  in  clusters;  blooms 
on  old  and  new  wood;  gives  scattering  second  crop  in  July;  during 
August  and  later  only  a  very  occasional  bloom. 

DAN^S. — A  stronger  and  hardier  grower  than  Moonlight;  small 
double,  light  yellow,  in  clusters;  fades  to  cream  white;  blooms  on 
old  and  new  wood;  height  from  six  to  ten  feet;  furnishing  a  second 
crop.  Later,  like  Moonlight,  it  only  gives  a  few,  scattered  blooms. 

CERES. — Growth,  eight  feet;  a  nice  first  bloom,  followed  in  the 
middle  and  last  of  July  by  a  good  second  crop;  color  is  blush  with 
yellow  shading;  of  good  size;  semi-double;  blooms  singly;  scattered 
flowers  in  August  and  none  later;  needs  protection. 

WINTER  CHEER. — Growth,  six  feet;  blooms  a  second  time  on  old 
wood  and  at  extremities  of  new  canes  of  three  to  four  feet;  blooms  in 
clusters  and  is  semi-double;  dark  red;  practically  no  bloom  after 
July;  needs  protection. 

CLYTEMNESTRA. — Must  also  be  noted  among  the  balance  of  the 
so-called  ever-blooming  hardy  climbers.  Its  color  is  orange  pink 
turning  to  cream,  sixteen  petals;  it  blooms  on  old  and  new  wood; 
height,  five  to  six  feet;  not  as  bushy  as  Danae;  blooms  until  October, 
good  dark  green  waxy  foliage;  flowers  in  sprays  and  singly. 

*  May  be  secured  from  Bobbink  &  Atkins,  Rutherford,  N.  J. 
221 


OUTDOOR  ROSE  GROWING 

Two  of  our  own  new  introductions,  hereafter  described,  are 
Hedge  or  Pillar  roses : 

BLOOMFIELD  PERPETUAL  is  a  strong,  bushy  hedge  rose  which  if 
not  cut  back,  grows  in  two  to  three  years  to  a  height  of  five  feet; 
it  will  bloom  constantly  and  prolifically  from  June  to  frost,  and  is 
hardy.  The  flowers  are  single,  white,  three  to  five  inches  across, 
and  the  perfume  is  that  of  the  Cherokee;  the  foliage  is  varnished 
dark  green  when  old,  light  green  when  young;  the  latter  is  slightly 
susceptible  to  mildew.  It  should  be  budded  on  Multiflora  and  only 
thinned  in  the  spring,  not  cut  back.  Owing  to  its  numerous  and 
continuous  blooms,  it  is  necessary  to  cut  off  the  pods  after  the 
petals  have  fallen.  In  brief,  it  is  a  hardy,  low  growing  Cherokee, 
although  of  entirely  different  breeding.* 

BLOOMFIELD  ABUNDANCE  is  a  low  hedge  rose  or,  if  not  cut  back, 
a  five  to  six  foot  pillar  rose;  does  not  winter  kill;  blooms  in  sprays; 
something  like  Cecile  Brunner  only  larger;  color  salmon  pink;  it  is 
double  and  lasting;  blooms  continuously  and  prolifically  from  June 
to  frost;  foliage  nearly  perfect,  dark  green  varnished.  A  dainty 
little  rose  and  absolutely  new.f 

GOLDEN  RAMBLER  is  an  ever-blooming,  yellow  cluster  rose  of 
rather  straggly  growth,  which  attains  a  height  of  five  to  six  feet. 
It  is  small,  double  and  blooms  in  sprays  giving  continual  bloom 
throughout  the  season;  its  foliage  is  usually  good;  needs  protection. 

In  addition  to  these  introductions,  the  rose  GLORIE  DE  DIJON 
continues  to  live  up  to  or  to  excel  all  that  has  been  said  for  it  (see 
page  126).  During  1919  it  grew  to  the  height  of  fifteen  feet  and 
bloomed  constantly  all  summer  and  until  frost;  it  must  be  protected. 

The  old  rose,  BELLE  LYONNAISE,  will  do  almost  as  well  as  Dijon. 
It  is  lighter  in  color,  varying  from  light  yellow  to  cream. 

MADAM  JULES  GRAVEREAUX  also  does  well.  It  is  a  light  pink, 
large,  of  good  form,  with  Tea  perfume.  After  its  spring  bloom  it 
gives  a  number  of  flowers  during  the  summer  and  fall. 

The  Hybrid  Tea  climbers  have  as  a  class  proved  as  disappointing 
as  ever.  They  are  very  susceptible  to  mildew  and  usually  bloom 
only  once. 

Climbing  KAISERIN  AUGUSTA  VICTORIA  and  LADY  ASHTOWN  are 
the  best  of  those  already  noted.  They  are  well  worthy  of  cultiva- 
tion; but  need  the  same  protection  as  Glorie  de  Dijon. 

The  newly  tested  Hybrid  Tea  climber  MADAM  JULES  GROLEZ  also 
has  done  exceptionally  well.  This  variety  blooms  constantly  all 
season  and  is  strongly  recommended.  Same  flowers  as  the  dwarf. 
(See  page  88.) 

One  rose  stands  out  as  fulfilling  the  conditions  of  an  ever-blooming 
hardy  climber.  This  is  the  climbing  form  of  GRUSS  AN  TEPLITZ. 
It  takes  time  to  become  established;  and  if  it  does  not  bloom  well 

*  May  be  secured  from  Bobbink  &  Atkins,  Rutherford,  N.  J. 
t  May  be  secured  from  Bobbink  &  Atkins,  Rutherford,  N.  J.,  or 
A.  N.  Pierson  Co.,  Cromwell,  Conn. 

222 


DOCTOR  HUEY 
(Description  page  223} 


BLOOMFIELD  ABUNDANCE 

(Description  page  222) 


ROSE  DEVELOPMENT  FROM  1917  TO  1920 

after  its  second  year,  it  should  be  root  pruned  or  moved  to  insure 
blooming  wood.  Its  habit  is  most  vigorous  and  hardy  and  when  well 
grown  it  blooms  most  prolifically  from  spring  until  frost.  This 
rose  is  in  a  class  by  itself,  its  only  fault  is  a  slight  tendency  to  mil- 
dew, which  may  be  controlled.  It  must  be  given  a  situation  in  the 
open  away  from  a  wall  or  building. 

In  hardy  climbing  roses  with  one  period  of  bloom  two  new  ones 
have  appeared  which  are  absolutely  distinct  and  worth  while. 
Paul  of  England  has  put  out  PAUL'S  SCARLET-CLIMBER,  a  rose  of 
fine  form  and  splendid  habit.  It  is  a  brilliant  scarlet  and  is  a  fine 
acquisition  to  this  section. 

It  has  been  our  good  fortune  to  breed  a  crimson  maroon  climber 
which  Dr.  Robert  Huey  has  chosen  from  among  our  seedlings  to 
bear  his  name.  This  rose  is  a  very  dark  color  and  blooms  most 
profusely  during  its  season.  It  is  semi-double  and  retains  its  petals 
and  color  for  a  long  period,  besides  being  of  vigorous  growth.* 

Among  the  other  hardy  roses  tested,  two  old  introductions  have 
shown  so  much  beauty  that  they  should  be  added  as  equal  to  the 
best  of  the  Wichurianas;  viz.,  PAUL  TRANSON,  apricot,  and  ALBERIC 
BARBIER,  yellow. 

In  culture,  valuable  improvement  in  the  treat- 
ment of  black  spot  and  mildew  has  been  brought  to 
notice  by  Doctor  Huey,  who  found  it  practiced  in 
the  garden  of  Edwin  M.  Rosenbluth  of  Walling- 
ford,  Pennsylvania,  whose  roses  are  so  noticeably 
free  from  these  evils  that  with  his  permission  the 
methods  used  are  given  in  full,  with  appreciation 
of  his  courtesy. 

First — Affected  foliage  must  be  removed  both  from  the  plants 
and  ground  and  afterwards  burned.  In  an  aggravated  case,  it 
Would  be  well  to  first  spray  with  Bordeaux  Mixture,  using  five 
ounces  of  the  paste  to  a  gallon  of  water. 

Second — If  late  in  the  season,  all  foliage  should  be  removed— say 
within  a  period  of  two  weeks — and  burned. 

Third — During  the  first  part  of  November  the  beds  should 
receive  a  very  light  dressing  of  Commercial  Sulphate  of  Iron.  In 
severe  cases  repeat  this  hi  the  spring,  on  removing  the  litter,  and 
use  also  a  light  spray  of  Bordeaux  Mixture. 

Fourth — About  May  fifth  start  spraying  lightly  with  Ammoniacal 

*  May  be  secured  from  Bobbink  &  Atkins,  Rutherford,  N.  J.,  or 
from  A.  N.  Pierson  Co.,  of  Cromwell,  Conn. 

223 


OUTDOOR  ROSE  GROWING 

Carbonate  of  Copper  Solution   and  repeat  every   five  days  or 
once  a  week. 

Fifth — Insect  pests  are  contributory  factors  in  spreading  dis- 
ease and  should  be  controlled.  (Chapter  IX.) 

Sixth — Varieties  particularly  susceptible  to  spot,  such  as  Lyon 
Rose  or  Juliet,  should  be  taken  out  and  burned.  * 

Seventh — In  severe  cases  after  the  main  blooming  season  in 
June,  spray  July  5th  with  Bordeaux,  repeating  every  three  or  four 
weeks.    (Suspend  Copper  Solution  while  using  Bordeaux.) 
Formula  for  Carbonate  of  Copper  Ammomacal  Solution: 
5  gallons  of  Water. 
Bounce  Copper  Carbonate  (chemically  pure).    It  is 

vitally  important  that  this  be  chemically  pure. 
4  4-5  ounces  Ammonia  Water,  16  degrees — 10%. 
The  Ammonia  is  diluted  in  seven  to  eight  parts  of  water. 
The  Copper  solution  is  made  into  a  paste  with  a  little  water  and 
then  added  to  the  diluted  Ammonia  after  which  water  is  added  up 
to  a  five-gallon  total. 

Since  1912  experiments  in  hybridization  have  been 
carried  out  in  our  testing  grounds  and  greenhouses. 

The  first  four  Bloomfield  varieties  selected  from 
many  seedlings  and  as  noted  in  this  chapter,  will 
now  be  put  upon  the  market  by  the  growers  named. 

Before  selecting  these  new  roses,  they  were  tested 
for  five  years  not  only  at  home  but  by  other  ama- 
teurs and  nurserymen  in  other  parts  of  the  country. 
The  wood  was  not  sold  but  was  given  to  the  nursery- 
men and  the  price  of  the  plants  is  restricted  to  the 
price  of  varieties  of  like  kinds  sold  by  the  same  firms. 
By  this  means  the  rose  public  will  be  able  to  secure 
these  novelties  at  a  reasonable  figure  and  not  at  the 
high  price  generally  paid  for  new  varieties. 

The  writer  takes  this  occasion  to  thank  the  firms 
producing  his  novelties,  for  their  willingness  to  help 
the  outdoor  rose  public  by  propagating  and  selling 
these  new  varieties  at  the  small  profit  possible. 


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